I am replacing the trigger guard on my rifle. The new one is about 3/4 inch shorter than the old one. I was going to glue a piece of wood into the inlet to but didn't know if there was another option some knows of that would look good? My other thought was possible a short piece of brass.
Filler for oversized trigger guard inlet
- Thread starter awreis
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Epoxy
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2019
- Messages
- 6,247
- Reaction score
- 9,536
Looks like the stock wood on your gun is walnut , or some other dark stained wood. Fix #1 would be brown stained epoxie to glue a piece of walnut to fill the cavity , then a little dark stain and finish. Fix #2 would splice a piece of brass the same thickness as the tail of the original trigger guard. A filler splice uses a thin backer plate soldered under the tail of the original guard , then clamp and solder the new brass onto the top of the backer plate. Careful joining of the splice , will be almost invisible. Trim , shape and inlet the new tail , and done. I've used both of these methods on restorations of originals many times w/success. Epoxie stain can be accessed from Brownells , and some woodworking stores. Doesn't take much stain to match the color of any wood , just a touch on the tip of a screwdriver blade.
Another piece of wood would be too obvious. And impossible to seamlessly blend in both grain-wise and color-wise. Color-matched epoxy is one alternative, though not that easy to match so it's seamless. Brass is also not a bad idea if you can make it look intentionally decorative. My mantra is: if you can't hide it, make it lood good and make it stand out like it's intentional. I'd go with the brass, and put a little engraving of a pineapple on it.
Epoxy always looks like epoxy and a cheap attempt at repair. Another piece of wood that is a close match looks like a more professional repair. I've seen both and the wood looks much better.
Best option is to extend guard by silver brazing piece on guard. File to shape afterwards. Done well, you'll not even see the addition.
Yes, if a person has expertise and tools to do that. Not all kit builders do. Jim, honestly, often times I think your advice doesn't adequately take into account the differing levels of ability to execute the remedies you recommend. In this case, based on the questions asked by the OP, I think one has to assume some "beginner" level, and I don't think you did that in your response. The best method per your expertise and experience may not be best suited as best remedy for the beginner-level remedy to be applied to the OP's problem in need of remediation.
While the advice of the master builders present on the forum may be recognized and accepted as the best advice for addressing a given problem, it's been my observation that the best advice is not always the most suitable advice, if it's not advice the novice builder can execute, then it's not particularly helpful in being useful advice for that builder.
Last edited:
It does give us amateurs something to strive for and think about though.
CuNosecap
45 Cal.
Soldering or brazing brass are the easiest and most basic of metal working skills. This is a good entry point and can easily be formed to fit the defect. I would do this before attempting a wood match.
[ would slice a piece of deer or other antler and shape and fit it, leaving the bark exposed. you can epoxy it or drill and pin it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Banjoman
Hillbilly
The antler idea sounds cool. I would like to throw out a couple more questions, but keep in mind I’m no builder, gunsmith or any of the sort. Would a piece of polished bone glued in work? What about black epoxy to simulate ebony? I’m trying to learn something here also.
You can use solder paste for adding brass, simple as can be, no skill required, the repair will be seamless if you take the time to fit things perfectly before you apply the solder paste.
I have used it for underlugs, adding metal to trigger bars and even to fix a broken trigger that I tried to cold bend "just a little" to keep it from hitting the trigger guard. I have never had a fix with the paste come loose.
A scarf joint on my TN rifle trigger, I ordered a new trigger but my fix works so I left things like they were. I will put in the new trigger someday.
I use this stuff;
I have used it for underlugs, adding metal to trigger bars and even to fix a broken trigger that I tried to cold bend "just a little" to keep it from hitting the trigger guard. I have never had a fix with the paste come loose.
A scarf joint on my TN rifle trigger, I ordered a new trigger but my fix works so I left things like they were. I will put in the new trigger someday.
I use this stuff;
Properly done, wood would disappear when stained and finished. Don't use epoxy, bad amatuer move. I think I would just weld or braze some metal on the trigger guard and shape it.
Jim's suggestion is the easiest solution, and if a person doesn't have the skill to do something a kid can do, you may be out of your depth putting any gun together. Most other suggestions for remedies here are terrible solutions.
I agree with @CuNosecap, and done properly the end result is perfection instead of a bubba job. The guy did ask for the best option and Jim provided the best option.
Not always wise to “educate” a master.
I'm not attempting to educate a master. That's way above my level. What I'm saying is that while a master would provide the best solution according to his master's knowledge and skills, but that a master - who is also an educator - would recognize the level of skill and knowledge and resources of the seeker and recognize the proposed solution may be above his level, and so provide a second alternate solution more appropriate to those skills, knowledge and resources available to the seeker.
When I was a flight instructor I didn't try to teach my student how to land the airplane at the end of his first lesson. Each lesson I taught him new skills and knowledge appropriate to and building on his demonstrated level of knowledge and skill he had already learned from previous lessons.
The OP asked for "another option" that would "look good". He didn't ask for the "best option". Jim provided the best option. Other members provided other options. Now the OP can choose which best suits his purposes and his level of skill and resources.
Last edited:
Another fix is using Titebond wood glue mixing with saw dust from wood similar to what you have and filling the void until you are good with the fill. Sand until even and stain.
Bubba might approve of one of Momma’s old shirt buttons held in place with a new-fangled phillips type screw.
Hats off to @James Kibler, @waksupi and @CuNosecap for not only “looks good”, but the best fix.
Hats off to @James Kibler, @waksupi and @CuNosecap for not only “looks good”, but the best fix.
Last edited:
CuNosecap
45 Cal.
I would not use Titebond and sawdust in such a large void
