Filling Pin Holes

[WBNovak]

Hello,

I need to fill a retaining pinhole so I can re-drill it. The new hole will be very close and probably overlap with the old hole. How should I fill that hole? silver solder?

Thanks!

 

[JohnBHM]

Hello,

I need to fill a retaining pinhole so I can re-drill it. The new hole will be very close and probably overlap with the old hole. How should I fill that hole? silver solder?

Thanks!

Are you filling brass or steel

 

[tenngun]

Is it a lug? It may be better to replace the lug

 

[user 48679]

I would try to fill it with a tightly-fitted pin (with flattened ends)

 

[WBNovak]

Are you filling brass or steel

Steel

 

[WBNovak]

Is it a lug? It may be better to replace the lug

It is a trigger guard on a Kibler SMR. Steel. I would hate to replace that because a lot of filing and sanding has gone into it!

 

[tenngun]

In that case if there is enough room, I would drill and tap it, put in a small machine bolt, peen it and then drill a new hole
It’s just a holder so won’t be exposed to much pressures ever

 

[JohnBHM]

If you have access to a welder or know someone with one it wouldn't take any time to fill it and grind or file it smooth.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

It is a trigger guard on a Kibler SMR. Steel. I would hate to replace that because a lot of filing and sanding has gone into it!

Pietro has a good suggestion, but I would like to add: countersink both sides of the TG tab so the peened flattened pin has a recess to form into. If you do it proper, it will be good as new. File your filled hole flat afterwards, so when redrilling you will be on a flat surface instead of a hump or bump.
Larry

 

[davec2]

Silver solder is easy and would do a great job for you. If you don't want to go to that high a temp, put in a piece of whatever size steel pin material you are using (left a little long) and soft solder it in place. Once soldered, cut off the excess pin material and file it smooth. Re-drill. Easy.

 

[SDSmlf]

Don’t exactly know what you are up against, but maybe step back out of the box and consider plugging the holes you have in the stock now and re-drill the pin hole in a slightly different location. A 3/32”, 7/64” or 1/8” (guessing on your current pin diameter) wood plug will hardly be noticeable, plus it may add some character to your build.

 

[barracudadave67]

You could silver solder two (2) pieces of thin steel on either side of the of the piece, and redrill it.
OR
If it is steel take the piece to a welder , and have them weld the hole up, with extra weld on each side, so you can file it down smooth, then redrill the hole.
Walmart sells real small wooden dowls that you can use to fill the hole, and plug it. You will just have to drill it a little bigger, for the dowl to fit in. Use dyed super glue to cement the dowl in place. Then sand it down smooth
Dave

 

[user 34300]

Kibler now drills the pin holes for you. I assume we are talking about a mis drilled tab on the trigger guard.

Jim Kibler has a video on how he fills customer returned messed up holes in lock plates. He uses high temp silver solder and a steel screw. Drill and tap the tab. Use a steel screw. The silver solder will wick into the joint. Dress it off flush when cool. I think that would be and excellent choice.

Step away from the welder.

Kilber sells trigger guards if you botch it.

I

 

[WBNovak]

I would try to fill it with a tightly-fitted pin (with flattened ends)

Kibler now drills the pin holes for you. I assume we are talking about a mis drilled tab on the trigger guard.

Jim Kibler has a video on how he fills customer returned messed up holes in lock plates. He uses high temp silver solder and a steel screw. Drill and tap the tab. Use a steel screw. The silver solder will wick into the joint. Dress it off flush when cool. I think that would be and excellent choice.

Step away from the welder.

Kilber sells trigger guards if you botch it.

I

You are correct Scota@4570. It was not mis-drilled so much as after sanding the trigger guard stands slightly proud on the wood. I would like to take some wood out of the channel so that the trigger guard sits flush again. This means new holes for the pins. I like this idea of a steel screw silver soldered in place. Thanks to you and to everyone for their excellent ideas!

 

[Ponderosaman]

How about tapping the hole putting in a bolt. Affix with solder/glue of choice. Cut off the bolthead and file/polish. Then re-drill for the new pin. Just read @tenngun suggestion. Lol, great minds? Course gluing and filing is the better plan

 

[WBNovak]

How about tapping the hole putting in a bolt. Affix with solder/glue of choice. Cut off the bolthead and file/polish. Then re-drill for the new pin. Just read @tenngun suggestion. Lol, great minds? Course gluing and filing is the better plan

Yep, like it.

 

[sdilts]

If the trigger guard is slightly proud of the wood, couldn't you just file the guard down a bit?

 

[Eric Krewson]

I posted this on another thread, drill and tap the hole, install a screw with solder paste, file off and re-drill.

Proud trigger guard at the lug, don't know how I did it.

filed off and ready to redrill.

 

[WBNovak]

If the trigger guard is slightly proud of the wood, couldn't you just file the guard down a bit?

That is a good idea!

 

[WBNovak]

I posted this on another thread, drill and tap the hole, install a screw with solder paste, file off and re-drill.

Proud trigger guard at the lug, don't know how I did it.

View attachment 212863

View attachment 212865

filed off and ready to redrill.

View attachment 212866

Nice, thank you.