Mike in FL
50 Cal.
Thanks guys, not just for the kind comments but also for all the help along the way. Next time will be so much easier. The learning experience alone was, for me, worth the price of a Jim Kibler kit. Re. the Minwax stain, I fretted over that a lot. I wanted a not too dark finish, and the Honey colored stain has always been my friend for ease. I bought the iron nitrate from Track and watched and researched Jim's video on using it, but the color he achieved is certainly period correct, I just like a light background that still shows the color. Used just one coat, buffed it lightly with 00004 steel wool, then spray poly, then wax. That has worked for me for decades on cedar and spruce arrow shafts. On maple, I suspect the iron nitrate would have likely made the maple grain more prominent, a thing I didn't really want 'cause I'm weird.
I used the long browning procedure on the barrel. Track's Brown, applied every 12 hours and cured in a wooden box with lots of wet rags to prompt rusting, heated with a 40 watt bulb, carding heavily between coats. Result is an even, smooth surface the color of the bottom of a Hershey bar. Therein is the wonder of doing it yourself - we can study the several methods and then pick what suits us.
I used the long browning procedure on the barrel. Track's Brown, applied every 12 hours and cured in a wooden box with lots of wet rags to prompt rusting, heated with a 40 watt bulb, carding heavily between coats. Result is an even, smooth surface the color of the bottom of a Hershey bar. Therein is the wonder of doing it yourself - we can study the several methods and then pick what suits us.
