Finishing castings on Kibler SMR

[RocketMan58]

So I''ve got my Kibler SOuthern Mountain Rifle just about assembled and am on to the finishing process. I'm no stranger to finishing wood gun stocks (and have researched what others are doing on this same rifle). However, the cleaning up of the investment castings scares me a bit. Mainly where there are obvious raised gate/sprue marks in the butt plate and trigger guard that need to come out. I've started to file them down to blend them in but am unsure how to go from this rough work to a smooth finish worthy of a blackening treatment. Do I just progress to various grades of sanding from there? So far, I'm really happy with the way the rifle is turning out. I hate to bungle this part. Unfortunately, Kiblers Video's don't cover this. Any suggestions/experience appreciated.

 

[2 shots]

go slow and work down to finer grades when the sprue is flush. dont use course paper or you will be sanding out deep scratches.

 

[stubshaft]

I use a fine mill file to remove the gates and seam marks, then progress from 180, 220 then 320 grit wet or dry sandpaper.

 

[OlSwede]

So I''ve got my Kibler SOuthern Mountain Rifle just about assembled and am on to the finishing process. I'm no stranger to finishing wood gun stocks (and have researched what others are doing on this same rifle). However, the cleaning up of the investment castings scares me a bit. Mainly where there are obvious raised sprue/vent marks in the butt plate and trigger guard that need to come out. I've started to file them down to blend them in but am unsure how to go from this rough work to a smooth finish worthy of a blackening treatment. Do I just progress to various grades of sanding from there? So far, I'm really happy with the way the rifle is turning out. I hate to bungle this part. Unfortunately, Kiblers Video's don't cover this. Any suggestions/experience appreciated.

Hello Rocket Man, if you can finish wood in preparation to stain and rub out your gun stock finish, you can prep metal for the polishing and the aging process. You have the idea already, start with files from as coarse as needed to remove metal efficiently. Then go to finer files. Finally you will be sanding with 220, 320, 400 and I will give a good light sanding sometimes at 600. Some folks stop at 320. It’s up to you. Don’t skimp on the quality of the paper and when it loads up, change it out for a fresh piece. Back each piece of sandpaper with an appropriately shaped file or sanding block. That will keep the lines and contours of the metal casting much truer to it intended final fit.
Lastly, use some good polishing paste, Fitz works well for me, there are others just as good. The auto store can help recommend to you a metal polish and buffing compound that will shine you gun parts like a “59” Caddy bumper. The amount of shine is up to you. Old school guns had a good polish on them before they took on a 100 or 200 years of age.
Speaking of which, aging metal is somewhat of an art. Usually less is better. For example, if you have an old hammer in your shop that has been around for a long time, look it over, and see where and how it’s been touched, used and bruised. An antique gun is the same. It’s been well cared for, but there are high traffic areas of handling all over it’s surface.
Also figure out the places that the shading belongs, like inside corners, creases, and underneath exposed areas.
Look at original gun pictures as much as you can.
Good luck my friend, and remember, each build gets better.

 

[RocketMan58]

Thank you, Gents! As always, the advice here is super helpful. This all sounds like what I figured to do. I guess I just needed some reassurance that I was on the right path. The piece looks pretty ugly as the filing process starts. The gates seemed significant on mine. I already have them just about gone though. Now to blend everything together.
FWIW, this isn't my first muzzleloader build. There have been two other rifles and a couple of pistols spread out over the last 40 years. None have had higher expectations than this one though! Also FWIW, I believe there will be another build right behind this one. I'm finding the process to be exceptionally rewarding. Winters just seem to get longer as I get older.

 

[Texcl2]

I’ve found out that the best thing I can do to minimize sanding is to use a new, good quality, single cut file to start with. The file can leave a pretty smooth finish. Bahco files are outstanding, I have a large nichols mill file I like but I buy bahco if I can. I would avoid bargain basement files. I do use the big mill file to rapidly get mill or cast marks out and then move to a smaller 6” finer bahco file. A good fresh high quality file is a joy to work with and leaves very satisfying long fine filings in its wake.

 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Scotch Brite is a nice thing to have handy.

 

[RocketMan58]

I stopped and picked up a new (Nichols) single cut file today. I had been using various double cut on the project to this point. I figure I'll need a single cut to draw the barrel anyway. From there I have an assortment of sandpapers from 60 to 6000 grit and 4 different grades of Scotch bright on hand. I also have various metal polish's, stones and even a polishing wheel and cutting compounds if it got down to it.
I finished the ram rod build/install last night and I'm doing the gross scale leveling of the metal to wood surfaces tonight. Lock and trigger guard areas are good. The wood around the butt plate and tang need a little filing but it's minor. I figure by tomorrow, I'll disassemble everything and focus on getting the metal ready for some Jax Black love. I have to say that while I'm taking my time, I feel like the project is going too fast. I'm somewhat addicted to it now. Heck I even worked on it for an hour or two in my dreams last night