Finishing wood

[Vaino]

You posed a lot of good questions and hopefully my answers will be to your satisfaction.

A tooth brush is used on the carving along w/ paper toweling. Puddling in the carving is unacceptable.

Hard maple doesn't require much grain filling and the 4 coats of the 2 finishes usually fills the grain....although I have once used a 3rd coat of the sealer w/ a more porous maple stock.

The 2nd coat of LMF sealer is for keeping moisture out and along w/ the first coat, does most of this function.

Yes, the Trucoat adds an addt'l moisture barrier but also yields a very low sheen finish which eliminates the need to reduce the shine w/ steel wool or fine abrasives.

The main reason for the "hard rub" is to remove any unabsorbed LMF sealer and the steel wool hasn't removed any stain.

For "wear areas" I lighten the stain before the finish is applied. Alcohol saturated paper toweling is used for this task.

W/ only the 2 sparse final finger rubbed in coats, the stock looks like there isn't any finish on it. I just like that look.

Glad to explain the process and if further questions are in order, please feel free to post them.......Fred

 

[Billnpatti]

The question really was; is that how you do it to help yourself maintain discipline to not rush things?

If you need such to maintain your self discipline, that is a good way to do it. Over the years I have developed my own way of maintaining my self discipline to prevent rushing. I set goals. I have short range goals, mid range goals and long range goals. For example, a short range goal is what I plan to complete today. I stick to that goal and know that I have all that day to work on that goal. When that goal is reached, I quit for the day. As an example, the first time I finished the exterior of a barrel that had to be draw filed, I sat one single flat as my short range goal and I did not allow myself to draw file and polish more than one flat per day. That way, I had all day to achieve a fine finish on that one single flat. Sure it took me 8 days to finish the whole barrel but when it was done, it was perfect. I do my stock work the same way. For instance, I sand the stock on one day not allowing myself to rush to finish up and move on to the next step. All I will do that day is to sand my stock to a 440 grit finish. When that is done to perfection, I wet the stock to whisker it, I set it aside to dry and I quit. And it goes that way until the gun is finished. By setting goals and sticking to them, I eliminate the urge to rush through a step.

That is my way to self discipline myself and not everyone will control their urge to rush in the same way. No matter how you do it, you must find a way to control the natural urge to rush to the next step. What works for you is the best way for you to do it.

 

[Vaino]

Patience for me was a "learned characteristic" which my 5 yr tool and diemaker was responsible for. In many facets of my private life I wasn't very patient except when working on anything mechanical....all due to my training.

Where I lose my patience is w/ people...and the reason for this isn't political, religious or philisophical....more of a common sense or efficiency thing in daily life. Many people go "round" in circles...what a waste.

Working on building MLers is therapy to me....I just relish my hours doing this. It's , some would say, a "retreat" from reality, but to each his own and I won't argue that their point might be valid. But I don't rally care.

We each need our "private time"....Fred

 

[Ames]

:applause: :applause: :applause: Nice! Well said.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

You sir are a genius

After 30 years in the (knock on your door and fix the problem) service industry I have never seen it put to print so well.

Thank You

:hatsoff:

 

[faste350]

yes, very well said!

 

[rushlake1]

Have been hesitant to use Chambers oil finish because I don't know how glossy it would be. I agree....if a gunstock finish yields what the builder wants, cost should be a secondary factor, w/in reason.

Would you be so kind and post a couple of your guns that have the Chambers oil finish so I could get an idea of the gloss?...Thanks.....Fred

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Fred the more applied the more gloss...I knock the sheen down with 0000 steel wool. Don't care for gloss on a hunting rifle.

 

[Darkhorse]

Regarding Chambers Traditional Oil finish, I usually put on 8 coats of finish allowing it to dry overnight between coats. I have hand rubbed each coat using the palm of my hand and rubbing in small amounts until it felt warm. I have also rubbed in 7 coats using a clean, hard cotton cloth and hand rubbed the 8th. Both methods worked well.
You can leave it shiney and it gives a good deep gloss. Or after the last coat drys rub it back with fine steel wool to knock the shine off.
Yes it is expensive and I don't order any unless I'm ordering something else also.
To use it just pour a tiny amount into a small bowl, just enough for one even coat, then quickly seal the can.
When finished with your rifle close the top as tightly as possible and store it upside down on the top. This finish air drys and when turned upside down it will dry from the top down. To use again simply turn the can over and it will be like new. I have a can in the shop that's been stored that way for 12 years and is still good.

 

[Henry2357]

Very Well said.

Briefly mention my situation..

My wife and I sold our house, I had a LARGE basement with work area/bench and a 2 car garage to work in.

Now I'm in an Apt and looking for something to do..Small woodworking projects for now..I need that private time you mention but, it's tough.

Thanks all for the answers, and more, I was looking for.

 

[Col. Batguano]

The toughest part about working in finished living spaces is finding a place to let sawdust, chips, and metal filings fall away from the project so they don't contaminate other things. And of course, you have to sweep and clean up thoroughly before you use the space again for other living purposes.

 

[TC Tommy]

Has anyone besides myself used Sno-Seal leather treatment, on a stock? Warm the stock and work it in. Rub off what won't work in.