finishing

[oddball]

I finally found a kit that I could afford.I finished the stock to my satisfaction, and sanded and polished all the metal to my liking. I assembled it all before browning, and, I like it in "the white". Is there any way to preserve that look or do I just go ahead and brown it?

 

[excess650]

You can leave it "white" and keep it oiled. I would prefer to etch the metal some, cold blue it and then cut it back with steel wool and oil.

 

[necchi]

I like it in "the white".

Nothing wrong with that.

Is there any way to preserve that look

As stated just keep the oil on it. It can be a little more work, keeping it rust free, but that's what it takes to keep it white.
Look at it this way,
You can keep it white as long as you want, then brown or blue it later.
It's your gun, :wink:

 

[galamb]

I like it in "the white".

Nothing wrong with that.

Is there any way to preserve that look

As stated just keep the oil on it. It can be a little more work, keeping it rust free, but that's what it takes to keep it white.
Look at it this way,
You can keep it white as long as you want, then brown or blue it later.
It's your gun, :wink:

A couple years back I did my own creation of an 1840's Ohio rifle originally built by James McCamment.

At 170'ish years old it was "still in the white" - although to be fair it had taken on a kinda grayish color on the barrel (mellow is the best way I can describe the look).

Given that, I think you could manage to keep yours that way for a few years with the suggestions above :grin:

 

[oddball]

thanks for the responses.

 

[Vaino]

The decision whether to keep it "in the white" or to brown it depends on how much and how often the gun is exposed to the elements. If it's a hunting gun, "shine" isn't wanted along w/ the increased maintenance to retain the shine. If most of it's existence will be indoors or trips to the range on sunny days, an "in the white" finish probably is OK if that's what is wanted and the addt'l manitenance is also accepted......Fred

 

[oddball]

Thanks, I went with lmf brown. It'll be interesting to see the outcome. When its done I'll post a pic. First coat is brassy looking,but, We'll see what happens.

 

[smil]

Brassy means you wiped it on too much. One pass is all you get before the copper color starts. Copper color is not good for the browning.

 

[necchi]

He's right, if you got the copper color too much was applied and it'll just stay like that.
Don't worry, it's not ruined, it comes off with light sanding.
but if you want browning to start proper, you will hafta get that copper color off.

 

[fusil de chase]

oddball,

please do post pics (lots) I am debating doing a brown finsh of using LMF brown and the boiling distilled water method to do a blue. Seeing how another newb makes out with the process will be helpful.

Are you using a box to increase the humidity?

looking forward to the pics. Don't make us wait till it is done, let us see the process

 

[gunmaker43]

To sort a keep the "in the white" but have a little aged gray (grey in Canada) patina. :wink: Wipe the metal down with that pink stuff-naval jelly, longer you leave it on there--the grayer/greyer it gets...Tom

 

[rafterob]

I am in the BC Plum brown camp. Goes on hot using multiple applications. It results in a rich plum brown. There are some tricks to get the best results from it. If you boil that one you get a deep blue-black.

 

[fusil de chase]

I like that plum brown look, What is BC? Birchwood Casey?

 

[Zonie]

BC is Birchwood Casey, the company that makes "Plum Brown" browning agent.

Plum Brown relies on the metal being heated to about 280 degrees F to make it work.

If the metal is much below 240 degrees F, the solution will apply a layer of copper that will prevent any browning to happen.

If the metal is much above 300* F the solution will boil and leave a mottled browning and crusts of the dried solution.

IMO, it isn't real easy to brown large things like barrels using PB but it can be done. It takes several coats. Wash the dried material off between each coat.

PB will look rather uneven after it is applied but letting it rest for at least 8 hours and then applying a coating of gun oil will even it out.

I use PB for small parts like lock plates, butt plates, trigger guards and nosecaps (if they are steel) and it works great.

Larger parts, sometimes not so great.

 

[oddball]

second coat on and now it's bluish grey and brown.I'll keep going and see where it ends up.
If my wife was here I'd have her put a pic up. Either way, I'm probably going to have an unique looking rifle. In the end I will post (my wife will) a pic of the final result.
No I'm not using a box, I'm running the shower hot and a heater in the bathroom.

 

[oddball]

It's a lot darker than in the picture.I was a little scared of the browning process,but, It turned out better than I thought it would.
It was a fun build so that's all that matters.

 

[Wes/Tex]

Wow! That's what I call wood with a stripe pattern. Admit I did a double take and it kept looking cooler and cooler. The flash will lighten the whole color pattern, maybe you can get another angle with less glare. Came out a very interesting project. :thumbsup: