Fire blued lockplate ?

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patch knife

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I,m thinking about maybe fire bluing the lockplate on my Jim Chambers Kentucky pistol , that I,m building . If I left the cock , frizzen , and pan in the white , would it look silly ? Also , would fire bluing hurt the frizzen or cock ? I will be using a propane torch to do it . I,m not sure I will do this , I,m looking for some input and opinions :hmm: . I,ll be grateful for any and all replies :bow: .
 
I fireblued mine all but the frizzen by putting them in the oven at 500 deg . took about 25min from cold oven to blued parts..stickwalker
 
The lockplate, cock, pan, etc. are not hardened as they come from the factory. You can temper them all you want. The frizzen, on the other hand, will be quite ruined, as tempering it would draw out the hardness.
 
I have been experimenting with dabbing yellow mustard on steel parts to get various gray colors. This has made a faux damascene finish. You dab it on with a folded bit of paper towel and leave for a couple of days and then scrub off. Costs alomst nothing and does not pit the plate. If you want darker, do it again and make it thicker and more evenly spread. I wanted and got a mottled look.

I think that I will do the next one with onion juice, Naval Jelly or paint stripper.

CS
 
I think that the durability of fire bluing depends upon which method is used. I think that the simple toasting in propane is very weak, but cooking it in coals is durable. Eric Kettenberg had info on this a while back.

CS
 
WADR, someone has told you something that is not true. Tempering simply keeps hardened steel from being brittle, by realigning the grain patterns into long strands, instead of the crystal, diverse patterns that occur when hardening is done. Tempering makes the steel usable, by making it tough, instead of brittle. Hardening occurs at 1500 degrees and above. Tempering is done at from 350 to 450 degrees F. It will not harden any steel I know about. Frizzens should be both hardened and tempered at the factory, but it is clear that many come from the factory with one or both processes omitted.

Shooters who find this problem should alert the manufacturer, as this kind of thing is jobbed out to subcontractors, who are selling inferior products to the assemblers, who usually don't have the testing equipment on hand to discover the problem at the plant. Even rifle barrels come in the wrong steel, and the factories have to ship it back, or sell it at a loss. Testing facilities are out of house, for most of the industry, and it takes several days to find out what was delivered. The manufacturers don't like being sold a bad lot of metal, either. It costs them money, time, and customers and their reputations in the industry when something like this gets by and out to the public. It is a constant product, as the industry is so small, there are only a few suppliers of materials, and you either make it yourself, as TC has apparently done, or you have to depend on a few suppliers, and subcontractors.
 
I think I'd be worried about warping something that large and flat. I've only ever fire blued with a torch though.
 
You're not going to get it near hot enough to warp it. The temper blue colors, as was said, are extremely fragile, and you can rub them off with your fingers. If you temper the part down "all the way" (as far as you can go before the part starts to glow in dim light), you will get a deep blue gray color that is rather more durable than the "earlier" colors. It still probably wouldn't be considered a "heavy duty finish"....

Tempering softens steel that has been previously hardened.
 
Thanks for all the input guys :bow: :bow: :bow: . I still have to install the buttplate , trigger guard , rr pipes , and nosecap before I start finishing the lock . So I still have plenty of time to decide what I'll do .
 
I refer to that as charcoal bluing.

Rich,

You are right. :hatsoff:

Have you tried other types of coloring? If so, what works best for you? I am toying with a variety of items after becoming bored with plain old brwon.

CS
 
Getting ready to fire blue a barrel. I believe locks were generally case hardened and then either had the colors polished off or not. In the past I have mostly browned steel furniture, not blued it, and find that depending on how far I let it go, can vary the result from low lustre flat and grainy to smooth and with a sheen. But now I mostly work in the pre-Revolutionary War period so do little browning. Have been finishing bright and doing a little aging.
 
We seem to be on the same path. I have been getting mine very smooth and then doing some aging with various acidic substances to get various patterns. Mustard was interesting, but I am still toying.

Thanks,
CS
 
Fire or Niter bluing can be very durable. Using a propane torch is not the same thing. In niter bluing the part is put into heated potassium nitrate, it become liquid at about 600 deg. The parts come out a brilliant blue that is very durable. The hammers on colt revolvers were blued in this manner. Brownells sells the chemical for this process. John
 
Before a person gets into blueing with melted salts, they should realize they can spend a small fortune on the equipment and the process is quite hazardous.

If you want a niter blueing, contact your local gunsmiths to find one that can do the job. (most can't because they don't want to invest the money needed).

zonie :)
 
The danger is in re-melting the salts. Potassium nitrate is in powder form, when heated it turns liquid. It is at 600deg and requeres the respect of a pot of molten lead. The trouble come when remelting , after melting and cooling it becomes a solid block. Re-heating melts it from the bottom up with a very hard upper surface. when the srface becomes thin enough the molten potassium nitrate will erupt through the surface and can cause serious damage in not tightly covered. I use a cheep hot plate and stainless steel pot to blue parts as large as spurs. The caution is well taken. Be very carefull with moisture and keep it covered. John
 
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