Fire Lapping Smoothbore

[Mainer]

This post is a sort of addition to my previous post about my smoothbore loading hard. A few suggested polishing the bore with a suggestion how to do it.

That got me to thinking. I bought a Neco fire lapping kit a couple of years ago for a rifle I had but never considered using it on my smoothbore. Of course the only problem is what to put the lapping compound on since a roundball doesn't have much surface area that contacts the bore like a traditional bullet. Any suggestions on that front?

 

[Rebel]

I just did the bore on a smoothbore. I have a long solid brass 3/8" rangerod that i chuck in a drill and then put a slotted shotgun cleaning tip on it. Then i put some FINE sand paper through the slot, place it in the muzzle, using a muzzle guide to protect the barrel, and run it in and out a few times on high speed. Then i do the same thing using 0000 steel wool instead of sandpaper. It polishes them right up. Don't take long to do.

 

[Mainer]

What grit sandpaper do you start with and is there any risk of "over sanding"? Or is the grit so fine it's not an issue?

 

[pathfinderifh]

I use fine valve grind compound on the patch,take quite a few shots,but it works. I clean between shots,and use a lighter load than usual.

 

[Rebel]

I use the black Wet/Dry sandpaper. I don't leave it in any one spot for too long. Not saying it is the best option, but it works for me and i haven't noticed any change in accuracy, but have noticed easier loading and cleaning.

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you are going to try firelapping a smoothbore, you need to use a round ball and patch, or maybe even two patches, to get a tight fit. I would use whatever you shoot to begin. Just put the lapping compound on the pack in a ring that insures that there will be compound in touch with the entire circumference of the bore. Then fire the gun, and use a clean patch to wipe it out. See how much better it feels.

I still think you can do as well with a range rod, a brush, or swab with steel wool and/ or JB bore cleaner, which is a fine lapping compound itself. The high speed handdrill with polish that bore us very quickly. Firelapping can do the same thing, but why waste the ball and powder? Save that kit for the next modern gun you need to work on.

 

[J.D.]

Follow Rebel's instructions with the exeption of using 3M's green scrubbies. They are the equivalent of about 320 grit and will smooth out the roughness quite nicely.

Better yet, slit a brass or wooden rod to accept about a 2-3 inch width of the green scrubbie. Chuck it in a drill and keep it moving slowly.

NEVER use valve grinding compound on the bore of a gun. The grit is NOT consistent and will cause more harm than good when used as lapping compound in a barrel.
J.D.

 

[Richard Hare.]

I use fairly fine wire wool, twist it on a jag very tightly, coat it with a metal polish paste, and run it up& down the bore, polishing it lengthwise.
Add more wire wool, and polish as needed.
The bore will soon shine like a mirror and avoids any lateral scratches.

 

[musketman]

Couldn't you just use lapping compound as a patch lube for the duration? :hmm:

 

[riarcher]

Couldn't you just use lapping compound as a patch lube for the duration? :hmm:

:thumbsup:

 

[paulvallandigham]

I suppose that would be a possible tact to take, MM. However, I would want to be checking that barrel after every 10 or 20 shots, so I could stop using the lapping compound. I don't know what that use would do to the POI as opposed to the load using a lubed patch. If you aren't expecting much accuracy, then using lapping compounds, of any kind would be okay. Most firelapping is done with greatly reduced loads, with conicals, so I would think the other methods of polishing would make more sense, or cents! :rotf: