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First attempt (scared)

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gsptarget

36 Cal.
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
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Well I finally made my decision and purchased a Chambers York rifle kit in .45
Swamped barrel and I went with the upgraded maple with no patchbox, based on their recommendation to show off the maple

Now I am terrified that I spent all this money and I am going to ruin it.
Because I will touch it with a chisel and the chisel will go right through the stock (like butter), cutting it in two, and it will end up an expensive piece of firewood.
Or I will not be able to build the thing, and it will turn out like a frankenrifle.

Anyone else have this thought pattern with the first build?

I am excited though, everything will ship on monday.
 
The first one is always a daunting undertaking.

What are your skills as to, understanding and following precise instructions, woodworking, mechanical, practical application of math, (yes, it does raise it's ugly head) do you enjoy working with your hands and tools, general fix-it ability, etc, etc, etc?

Frankly, my first attempt was a butchered blunder, as to how I later improved, that is for others to judge.
 
:grin: Fear Not! there are some great resources here that will guide you through it. Mike Brooks has a very thorough tutorial on the forum.
Keep the chisels sharp, like shave hair sharp. The neat thing is that when it is done it will be yours, mistakes and all. Even the best builders have things that they will do different on the next one. That's the thing to fear is how many more will you do? :v
 
first things first! breathe! this is suppose to be a fun, chalangeing and learning sport/activity. You might make a boo-boo, jsut take it slow and carefull. There is no perfect gun build. The good builders just know how to "blend" their mistakes so as not to see them or make them noticeable.
Ask questions, post pics lots of good advice at this forum. Enjoy
 
I just got done staining my first build today. The project was not as hard as I thought it would be though but I did get alot of great advice off of this forum. The gun isnt perfect but I built it. I did learn ALOT from it though and I have already started to collect parts for my next build. Just take your time ask lots of questions and everything will turn out alright.
 
If you haven't already ordered it, I suggest getting the "Building the Chamber's Kit Rifles" DVD set.

They are avaible from either Chambers or American Pioneer Video.

Otherwise, take your time and ask questions and everything will work out well.

J.D.
 
Your first rifle is the correct name for it. You'll make a few mistakes but you'll learn a lot. And once you build one you won't be able to stop from building another. Take your time. Get Chambers' video and read a few "how to" books as you go. All the knowledge will make the next couple of guns less intimidating.
 
I did the Chambers York in 45cal two years ago and it was my first. It took me over 100 hours. Just take your time and think each step through and just don't be in any rush. When you get tired, stop. If a problem comes up you have plenty of advice you can get on this forum. Good luck.
 
Welcome to gun building. If you are patient and work slow you will do fine. Chamber's kits are the finest out there. I also suggest getting their video or a builder's book to help you through. It's not that you can't get all the answers off of boards like this but the book or video would walk you through the whole process before you start. Most steps in building a gun have some effect on another step so think ahead.
Looking forward to seeing some pics.
Ken
 
Why don't you buy a piece of low grade pine board, at your local wood supply, in a 2 x 6 or 8 thickness and width. It won't quite be as wide or as thick as your gunstock will be, but it is close enough so you can practice every cut you intend to make FIRST on the pine stock before you do it on the maple. NO?
That way, the maple stock will benefit from your mistakes made on the pine stock, and you will have the confidence of knowing what the tools are going to do before you get near the maple stock. If you screw up the pine stock, what is the harm?

I know many workers who have done this when working on their first projects. It makes sense.I even know men who work in commercial woodshops, who first " map out " every cut, and drilled hole on a mock up waste wood piece, in order to figure out how to make a small production of parts or pieces. The same thing is often done in machine shops, to make sure an angle is right, or the work is square in the vise, or lathe, or milling machine.
 
paulvallandigham said:
Why don't you buy a piece of low grade pine board, at your local wood supply, in a 2 x 6 or 8 thickness and width. It won't quite be as wide or as thick as your gunstock will be, but it is close enough so you can practice every cut you intend to make FIRST on the pine stock before you do it on the maple. NO?

NO. While the concept is sound, nothing about working maple will be learned on pine. That would be like trying to engrave aluminum in preparation for engraving on steel. Practice on good hard maple to learn to work good hard maple.
 
Measure twice cut once. Take your time, don't assume anything. Read the tutorials, buy the videos, watch and learn. Have fun.

Many Klatch
 
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.
I bought Chambers dvd, I have the Gunsmith of Grenville County and the Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle. I have read the tutorial on here also.
I have slowly, over the past month or two been collecting tools. (files, chisels, scrapers etc) I will probably not start the project until the new year.

Maybe I should find a block of hard maple to practice on.
 
If you have never used these tools before, use them on anything you can fine, or buy. I suggested pine just because its cheap. It is obvious that being a very soft wood, pine is not going to give you the exact same experience as maple will, but you will learn how to hold the tools, how to keep them sharp, how to use them. You will gain knowledge in how to control them. All that becomes useful in working on hardwoods.

Engraving students are taught to use engravers on soft lead sheeting, before moving on to copper, brass, silver, and finally steel. Lead is not only cheap, but you can remelt it and pour a new slab for more practice. Copper/bronze is harder yet, and will educate you on what to expect when you begin working on Brass and Silver, and later steels.

The same teaching technique works for students learning how to carve, cut, chip, chisel, and scrape wood until it looks like something. One advantage that Pine does have is that its so soft that you have to use a very sharp chisel to cut it across the grain. That is good practice for later working on harder maple. You learn how to keep the edge sharp, and how to resharpen it when it dulls.
 
No regrets you done well and Jim needs the money for Barbi's wedding I'm sure!

If you decide you don't want to dive in and start carving away take one of the gunmaking classes like I did. In less than 40 hours under the instruction of Mike Brooks, Jim Chambers and John Weston I got my smooth rifle in the white! It would be finished by now but a man has his priorities and mine is hunting!

Enjoy and Mike's tutorial is awesome.

B
 
Engraving students are taught to use engravers on soft lead sheeting, before moving on to copper, brass, silver, and finally steel. Lead is not only cheap, but you can remelt it and pour a new slab for more practice. Copper/bronze is harder yet, and will educate you on what to expect when you begin working on Brass and Silver, and later steels.
HUH! That sure has nothing to do with the way I learned. The instructor I paid started me right out on mild steel..... :hmm:
 
I had the same fears for years. Finally started my first "fancy" rifle a few years ago. It was a Brad Emig Virginia. Part way thru, I was at Dixon's to get a few things and Chuck asked how the rifle was coming along. I told him I wasn't too happy with a particular part of my inletting work. He said "son, you're building this for relaxation and enjoyment, not for a client, right?" When I answered yes, he said "then relax and enjoy it!" He then got down a few of the originals hanging in his shop, and proceeded to point out some "flaws" in the great makers' works.It was a great bit of advice, and a great eye-opener for me. Each one I've built since gets a little better, and I've learned that a minor slip of the chisel isn't the end of the world, it's the beginning of a unique rifle...
Good luck to you, and relax, you'll do fine!
 
Confidence comes from success.

Success comes from experience

Experience comes from practice.

Nobody is born with gun smithing skills.

They all start somewhere.

Now is your chance to start.

Go slowly, use sharp tools.

Having a good vice and excellent lighting makes things a lot easier.

When you are done you will have what you have, your first flintlock and you will be proud.

Most folks are their own worst critic and that will never change.

Relax and enjoy the experience - Butterfly's and all.

There used to be a fellow around here called 'rootnuke'.

You might want to look up his posts. He stressed out and things worked out just fine.

Good Luck

We are all here for you if needed.

Leo
 
It sure would not hurt to develop some skills with your chisels and such before starting in on your blank. However my experience has been that the construction grade pine you find at the builders supply is not a good wood to practice on. If I had not been the stuborn soul I am I would have given up after my first trial on Construction grade pine.The hard and soft places in the grain cause cutting tools to either follow the grain when you don't want it to or won't cut into the grain when and where you wish. If you want to practice on softer woods I would reccomend either basswood or Poplar works well with chizels and carving tools.
Poplar tends to fuzz up a lot in power carving.
 
To go along with everyone else, someone told me before I attempted my last rifle; Get the books, read the books before you ever touch the thing.

That was good advice. At each stage, at each part, I read the entire set detailed steps on how to do it. I also had the book open, on my bench, for wuick reference. If I needed additional info, I opened up Mike Brooks' tutorial and even watched bits and pieces of video I have. And I asked questions here. If I got tired after working on the thing for a few hours, or my mind started wondering, I stopped for the night. In fact, I took a month off from building it, I felt I needed to.

Go slow and take your time. :hatsoff: And ask questions. Enjoy it.
 
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