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First black powder rifle, headed to the range.

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I like itđź‘Ť.
On the weighed charges....I was going to suggest more powder but then when you weighed the pyrodex that is what you did by default!
I use to shoot mine with the foresight very low in the notch but eventually I made a new sight that replaced the adjustable members of the Peabody arrangement.
As for going right of the bull have you tried shooting off hand or off the knee?
 
With respect to the impact being to one side or another. Where is the sun and is there a glare or highlight on the front sight? That highlight will tend to place one side of the front sight in the center of the rear sight notch. Then when you return to the bench and the sights are shaded and centered the impact moves also. Watch for the highlight on the sights.
 
With respect to the impact being to one side or another. Where is the sun and is there a glare or highlight on the front sight? That highlight will tend to place one side of the front sight in the center of the rear sight notch. Then when you return to the bench and the sights are shaded and centered the impact moves also. Watch for the highlight on the sights.

Sun position absolutely can affect how you perceive the sights as Grenadier said. Try to shade your sights and see if the POI changes. Past that there's a sight blacking device that many iron sight competitors use- WATERS RIFLEMAN CALCIUM CARBIDE SIGHT SMOKER BLACKENER
 
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I'm hoping some sight picture error caused this , this group is the best I've gotten so far at 100 from this ArmiSport.

Otherwise I'll have to just either file the front sight over or live with it

Sometimes there's some freak occurrence like a heavy charge and a big bullet that will move the POI over, I'm about to put this one on the Back Burner and play with other stuff until I come back to it.
 
Thanks for all of the advice guys.
I am trying diligently to come up with some real black powder but to no avail, at least locally. I will need to do something soon as I only have a little over a LB of Pyrodex FFG.
About the position of the sun. I'm shooting early morning and it's at my 7:00 and fairly low on the horizon. I'm not shooting from under a cover, so maybe I'll set up a Pop UP next time out.
And I am shooting like we were taught in the Army, flush sight picture. I'll adjust the sight picture and see what that brings. I would also like to work back to 100 yards at some point.
@Stantheman86, I think your right, This is going to be a fun rabbit hole.....
I do think there are probably a number of topics I haven't brushed up against yet.
You don't know what you don't know...
 
There's always the old gunsmith trick of just taking the barrel out of the stock, finding two trees and giving it a very slight bend. Very slight. Or having a gunsmith put a shallow dovetailed front sight on.

I tried the Pedersoli "sniper sight" , that didn't work well, it all comes down to just putting a few 100 rounds through it to see what's going on.

ArmiSport and Pedersoli do a good job of centering the sights to the boreline but barrel blanks can be bored off Center by a little bit, as people who have cut barrels down to make carbines have found out , they mass produce these so we can buy them for $700-1200 instead of $5000+ for hand fitted rifles like a Romano.
 
There's always the old gunsmith trick of just taking the barrel out of the stock, finding two trees and giving it a very slight bend. Very slight. Or having a gunsmith put a shallow dovetailed front sight on.

I tried the Pedersoli "sniper sight" , that didn't work well, it all comes down to just putting a few 100 rounds through it to see what's going on.

ArmiSport and Pedersoli do a good job of centering the sights to the boreline but barrel blanks can be bored off Center by a little bit, as people who have cut barrels down to make carbines have found out , they mass produce these so we can buy them for $700-1200 instead of $5000+ for hand fitted rifles like a Romano.

Stan recommends the two trees method but you will have better and more controlled results using a hydraulic press, support the ends of the barrel and use the press to put pressure on the barrel release the pressure and measure, if there is no change put just a LITTLE more pressure on it, measure, repeat.

It took me five different bends (bend, reassemble, shoot, disassemble, repeat) on my Caywood but it now shoots to exactly point of aim.

It can be done but be careful.
 
I just recommended the "Redneck Gunsmithing" method :)

I'm also the guy who screwed a tang sight into the wood of my musket at the range with it resting in an old, half broke rifle rest that was laying in the weeds by the firing line and somehow I got lucky and it lined up

I'm slowly learning the value of "getting to know a rifle " because the more I shoot this particular one, the better I get with it vs constantly bringing out new ones
 
You two are scaring me! :doh:
I did powder the barrel again, which I guess I should have done after my first glass bedding. There was improvement to be had at the plug end of the stock so I did some touch up there. Hope to get out the later part of the week and try it out. I also fiddled with darkening the front blade sight. Would like to shoot 75 yards and ultimately 100 yards to get an idea of what the gun does at different ranges. Of course this will be moot when I can get my hands on real black powder....
 
The guy at CapandBall.eu is a muzzleloading match shooter and he is happy with 4" groups at 100 Yards with a .58 Rifled Musket, and he says this was the acceptable standard in 1855 for these rifles. He was also shooting an original Bridesburg 1863 Springfield that was hitting off to the left, so I'm just gonna go with that and say my rifle and groups fall within the standard :)

If I can move things over to the left it will be a bonus.

It seems that windage POI vs POA was not an exact science for military rifle-muskets.
 
With my P-H Enfield carbine, I found through testing that 44 grains FFFg Goex black powder and a Lyman mold cast .575 minie pushed trough a .575 sizing die and a lube mix of Crisco and bees wax and a small amount of castor oil will consistently break hanging clay birds at 50 yards and 6x6 ceramic tiles at 100 yards from the offhand shooting position.
Different weights of powder can cause impact shifts and enlarge or reduce group sizes.
 
So, 2F or 3F? Figuring 5 LBS is minimum order I'd like to try what seems to work the best. Or would that question be like starting an Oil thread on the Moto Guzzi forum?
3f. You’ll use a bit less per shot and fouling should be less. But then again, I’ve seen it go the other way. If you can split the order to experiment, that’s what I’d try first
 
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