• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

First build, Lyman Great Plains Rifle build along.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

krecords

36 Cal.
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
66
Reaction score
0
OK I was asking questions on balance and some people showed interest in a build along.

This is my first gun build. My hobbies are making bows, arrows and stone bladed knives usually. I also carve canes and walking staffs. I am not a metal worker....yet.

I will post what I have so far and I regret not taking more photos now. I am waiting for browning solution to get here in the mail so I will post more of that process when I get it started.

GUN001.jpg

This is the kit I bought from Track of the wolf, on line. $395 or so with freight.

GUN003.jpg

Here it is when I opened the box. it had sat in a fed ex truck over the holidays and was wet from snow seepage.

GUN005.jpg

The trigger guard

GUN004.jpg

The casting marks on the guard as it came out of the box.

GUN006.jpg

More casting marks

GUN007.jpg

The way the base looked as I got it.

GUN008.jpg

I started modifying it to give it better definition. I was using a 6" mill bast file and some hobby files that were different shapes.

GUN013.jpg

The butt plate has casting blemished as well

GUN014.jpg

Filing the but plate I set it on a wood block so I could hold it better.

GUN033.jpg

Here it is after filing and sand paper from 100 grit through four stages to 600 grit.

GUN032.jpg

the trigger guard with the same process. I sanded my fingers as I was doing this to the point they split open.

GUN035.jpg

I am not sure what this part is called, it is where the ramrod enters the wood of the stock. Being a non conformist I had to add a second grove next to the one that was cast into it just to make mine different. I was going to do three but the second one wore me out.

GUN034.jpg

The triggers had casting lines up the center of them so I filed and sanded them smooth.

GUN031.jpg

Sanded furniture ready for browning process I don't think I will mess with the lock or triggers as I am not sure what the browning process might do to their function.


GUN012.jpg

I tried putting the whole thing together once but the escutcheon screws were soft and I broke two off in their holes. This was one to document my error.

GUN016.jpg

I drilled a hole along side the screw then broke it out sideways. then I plugged the hole with glue and a hardwood wedge. then cut the wedge off with a chisel and sanded it smooth. I bought some new "2x 1/2" single slot screws to replace all of the ones that came with the kit. Somebody suggested I wax them before trying to mount the escutcheons again.

GUN009.jpg


The other issue I had was that the trigger guard came warped to one side and did not fit the mounting inlets well. I got brave and heated it in my wood stove and bent it straight. The heat colored the metal at the one end but with more sanding I got it back to match the rest of the metal.

GUN011.jpg

When I started the carving first thing I did was to make a cardboard pattern of the raised area around the lock. I then used it to make the opposite side the same size and shape.

GUN017.jpg

I drew a rough sketch of what I wanted to do,then outlined it with a dremmel and small round bit. I use round bits from as tiny as a pin head to about the size of a .50 cal lead ball. the round heads tend to leave less marks if you mess up and they won't grab and rip through your work if you use a light touch.

GUN019.jpg


GUN018.jpg


I drew the circle of vines first to get my size then drew the buffalo freehand by looking at a picture. I Had this image in my mind before I got the kit and discovered Lymans logo is similar.

GUN015.jpg


GUN020.jpg


GUN021.jpg

I take the surrounding wood down away from the parts I am defining. Then I file and or sand to smooth it all out. I jump from tiny to small to large to tiny tips on the dremmel to get what I am looking for. Once it is carved I sand,sand,sand. The hobby files come in handy here too to get in the crevasses and sharpen lines. Notice I took out the center part of the drawing I liked this side a bit less cluttered.
As I get it close to finished, I close my eyes and run my fingers over the carving to find sharp or rough points then sand them down. I want the wood to feel good in your hands even more than look good.

GUN010.jpg

Once the wood was carved I needed to modify the edges of the butt plate to match the wood.


GUN022.jpg


GUN026.jpg


GUN024.jpg


GUN029.jpg


GUN027.jpg


GUN036.jpg

Score! A friend was cleaning out his closet and found this. Since he knew I was building a black powder gun he gave it to me. It was even a .50 caliber kit like the rifle I am making :grin:

GUN037.jpg



GUN038.jpg

I made a sweat box for the browning process tonight. I tried hanging the barrel and all the furniture to make sure it would all fit

GUN039.jpg

Ahhhhh, dark walnut stain, I like it!

GUN040.jpg


GUN041.jpg


It is drying now! I can't wait to get this browning process going.
 
Nobody is going to mistake that for an off-the-shelf GPR :thumbsup:

Let us know how the browning goes. If you have problems you may have to back off the 600 grit finish on the parts.
 
Thanks for posting this, I am currently building a GPR flinter, and while mine will be pretty 'regular', this is good inspiration.

Looks to be shaping up nicely, keep the updates coming!
 
Your first build?? I'm guessing it won't be your last. AWESOME!!! :hatsoff: :thumbsup:
 
Really very nice start.

The 600 grit finish on the metal worries me a bit. You might consider 220 or 320 for the browning process - I assume you are planning to use a cold process like the Laurel Mountain finish. Some folks have had difficulty with the LMF and other cold browning finishes on finely polished metals - they got a copper finish instead of brown.
 
Mykeal,
Yes it is LMF I ordered. I guess I was making the metal part of this project harder than it had to be. I intend to go over all the metal parts again with 230 grit while I am waiting for the solution to get here. Thanks to the wonderful information on this sight, such as your comments, I went and read the LMF instruction sheet that is pinned to the top of this forum. Alas more sanding and I could have stopped days ago! :hmm:

I also forgot I need to sand the top of the escutcheon screws and put them in the sweat box as well.
Kirby
 
mahtosapanumpa said:
...
I also forgot I need to sand the top of the escutcheon screws and put them in the sweat box as well.
Kirby

I usually just fire blue the small screws. It is easy to do and it looks good. The screw tops don't get much wear so the fire blueing stays nice.
 
Holy Magpies that's going to be a heck of a rifle! By the time you get this you will probably have already completed your browning but one thing I would suggest is that you put a small crockpot in your box and turn up the heat with plenty of water in it. I did that on my project and it really speeded up the browning process. Great job! :bow:
 
That is definitely a one-of-a-kind rifle! Good job of carving and finishing too. The only thing I might suggest is small pilot holes for the wood screws along with beeswax on the threads, makes the screws go in a lot easier. Emery
 
Mike,
can yu explain fire blue? how would you hold a screw that small in a fire long enough to get it to change color? Browning the heads is a pain it seems. I would like to try your method especially if I use the vinegar finish on my next build.

Smokehouseman, that is an excellent Idea. I have been putting 3 containers with boiling water in there but of course our weather went to 25 degree days and 15 degree nights so by the time I get back to it the water is cold. I have seen the miniature crock pots but it will be next weekend before I can get to town to get one.

Emery,
I have the pilot holes drilled, and I have both beeswax and paraffin wax at my disposal. I will definitely wax the screws before I install them for assembly.

Update on the process:
I started the browning process and re-applied after 3 hours then did my first carding with burlap after 10 hours. I then reapplied and went 12 hour before carding. I think I will wait 24 hours and card tomorrow night. I am taking pictures and will post them when I have the time. I have not done a very good job of even application, and although rust is forming I have more coper tone to the metal at one end of the barrel than brown. I tried applying with an old sock first, that is a waste of solution. I went to Q-tips and cotton ball and I am using much less with better coverage. I think my biggest problem is the dry cold air we have here this time of year.

As for Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution, there is no displeasing smell, it is easy to apply with the q-tips, it has not affected me when I got it on my hands (I tend to be sloppy with liquids....) and it is not volatile around flames so i don't have any worries about the wood stove in my shop. or the light in my browning box. It has a yellow color that will stain light colored clothing. I do not now if it washes out later or not. The bottle says there is enough for two riffles, at the rate I am going I will only get one out of this bottle. but that is probably more my own fault for trying to apply with an old sock than anything else.
 
mahtosapanumpa said:
Mike,
can yu explain fire blue? how would you hold a screw that small in a fire long enough to get it to change color? Browning the heads is a pain it seems. I would like to try your method especially if I use the vinegar finish on my next build.
...

Yes that is exactly what it is. Just put the screw in a propane flame until it turns blue. I oil quench the screw to coat it so it doesn't try to go brown. It has to be an unplated screw.
 
Browning in process.

GUN031.jpg

here's what we are starting with....

GUN042.jpg

The browning solution.

GUN043.jpg

Muzzle end plug

GUN044.jpg

Nipple end plug.

GUN045.jpg

My sweat box set up. The cool whip container have boiling water in them to start each session. the trouble light is for heat.

GUN046.jpg

the barrel after the first 3 hours. I did not card it off yet.

GUN047.jpg


GUN048.jpg

the barrel after the first 10 hours

GUN049.jpg

the trigger guard after the first 10 hours. I missed a spot.

GUN050.jpg


After 22hrs and 1 carding.I Used burlap to card off the rust scales.

GUN052.jpg

After 46 hours.

GUN053.jpg

towards the muzzle.

GUN054.jpg

towards the breech. I am getting completely different looks on this thing.

GUN055.jpg

GUN056.jpg

after carding with Burlap and steel wool.

GUN058.jpg

the escutcheons.

GUN060.jpg

I carded with steel wool on the uneven finish on the trigger guard and ended up taking off a lot of color.

GUN064.jpg

the but plate has a square mark on it beginning to show up.

GUN065.jpg

the sight looks decent.

GUN068.jpg

a poor picture of the escutcheon pins, but they look half way decent for color.

GUN069.jpg


Thanks to smokehouseman's suggestion My wife picked me up a little crock pot today. maybe with more moisture in the air I will get better results.

please feel free to comment, criticize or whatever. I am in a learning process here. and I appreciate all the information.

Kirby
 
You're getting different results from one end of the barrel to the other because you have your humidity at one end and your heat source at the other. The trouble light will ad heat but remove humidity from that end.
 
Thanks, Cody I think that was it. Fortunately I used steel wool on the barrel and it evened out. I wraped it up last night with most of the parts but the bottom plate that meets up with the butt plate just peeled all the browning off when I carded it last time. I tried again last night and it all peeled this morning again So I sanded it with 100 grit sand paper and heated it on the wood stove. I applied the browning solution when it was still warm and put it back in the box. we will see if that works any better. Also I noticed my box lid is warping and leaving a larger gap at one end. that may be causing the heat and humidity to escape.

I hope to be able to assemble it all tomorrow with the exception of that plate. I will post pictures when I get it to that stage again.

Kirby
 
Ok, I completed the browning and scrubbed each piece with water mixed with baking soda using an old toothbrush. Not having a torch to heat the parts like the instructions directed I set them on the top of my wood stove and cranked it up. They got plenty hot. I then oiled the parts with motor oil for 24hrs. It took very little oil to cover all the parts. When done I wiped the parts down with a clean rag then heated them slightly on the stove again and applied paraffin wax. As it melted I rubbed it out vigorously.
I put the gun together last night so here are the Final pictures.

GUN072.jpg


GUN071.jpg


GUN070s.jpg

Also you can see the powder horn I started carving last night. That post will be in the craftsman forum.

Thanks for all the advice and encouragement!
Kirby
 
Back
Top