First cap and ball revolver, where do I start?

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jerem0621

40 Cal.
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I'm wanting a cap and ball revolver to carry in the woods while deer hunting. I love shooting so I need something in the 40 cal range to keep me legal during our hunting season.

It also has to be reliable to stand up to extended shooting sessions.

Basically, I'm a noob and don't really know where to start with c&b revolvers.

Thanks
 
I would start with a steel framed revolver. I like the Colt types, others prefer the Remingtons. And then there is the Ruger Old Army which is I think the absolute best there is. The trouble with the Ruger is they are no longer being made. You can still find them for sale, but you'll pay a good sum for them. The Ruger is not period of historically accurate. But it is still a fine revolver.

And for the replica types, I would go with Uberti.
 
I have both the Pietta and Uberti reproduction revolvers and the Uberti, in my opinion is slightly better in overall quality. The Piettas are quite good though and for the price are tough to beat. Are you looking for a revolver to carry as a main weapon, or as a "Coup De Grace" weapon? Either way I would consider buying somthing in 44cal. I think the only Cap n Ball revolvers with the power to reliably take a deer are the Dragoons or Walker. With perfect shot placement or as a "Coup De Grace" gun others may work.
 
A first time C&B revolver?
hmmm.....
I would sugest a Walker, or a Dragoon if you are hunting. But niether is really a hunting pistol.

However as you are planing on taking it hunting it seems to me that the pistol is only there to finish the job and provide mercy to the animal. For that I would sugest a hefty single shot pistol say in the .50-.58 cal range. Mainly because you are only going to need a mercy shot one time. The single shots look cooler on a hunt and the need to be acurate is a pressing matter so you are less likely to halfass the shot.
 
I want it for mercy shots. I do agree that the big single shot is probably more practicle.

Yes, in TN a muzzleloading pistol is perfectly acceptable for hunting. It just has to be .36 cal or greater. A muzzleloader is defined by the state if Tn as a firearm that is incapable of being loaded from the breach.

But the single shot would allow me to only carry one type of powder, caps, patches, and balls.

Thanks everyone.

I still want a cap and ball revolver for fun though. Looks like I'll start saving for a traditions kit pistol.

Thanks!


Jeremiah
 
If you have the same bore in the pistol as the rifle that would save on the gear you have to carry into the field.
If you go with a revolver you will have to have a differant size ball for the revolver because the rounds you use in the rifle will be either PRB or a heavy conical, niether of which belongs in a revolver.
 
I carry a Navy 36 for rabbits, etc. I reload my rifle before I trail a shot deer so I don't need a pistol for a "finishing shot".
I'm a dedicated Colt fan BUT in your case I would personally opt for a steel frame Remington with the top strap. It's a rugged gun and can shoot round balls or conicals. You can remove the cylinder easily if need be, and not have a loaded gun in the car, etc. You can do the same with the Colt but the Remington is a little bit better in my opinion. Hickok used Colts and Buffalo Bill had a Remington that "never let him down". Both are good guns.
The single shot- yeah, I have one of those as well and I'll tell why. Usualy I'm up in a tree but sometimes I go into areas where I have to sit on the ground. I'm in the deep south and deer can be right on top of you. A few years back a small forkhorn came in on my right and stopped about 15 feet away. What to do? I'm right handed and the rifle was angled across my legs/lap pointed to the left. If I tried to move the gun so I could shoot left handed- too much movement, I'd spook the deer. If I had brought a 50 or 54 caliber Hawken type pistol I could have easily shot that deer.
What happened??? After 15 minutes I "lost it" and tried moving the rifle and "gone deer".
So sometimes I carry a big single shot.
 
there are less expensive revolvers available but the Rem '58 repros are hard to beat for reliability and accuracy
spare cylinders are available at reasonable cost also - a big +
 
Dicky Dalton said:
I've got a Traditions Trapper 50 cal pistol that would be fine for that, but I cary a ROA instead.

Forgive my ignorance but what is a ROA?

Thanks
 
Ruger Old Army.
It's my understanding that a stout load behind a heavy conical/boolit will be enough to hunt with.
I'm certainly entertaining the thought of trying my Old Army with Kaido's 240 grn custom conical. We'll see how well the boolit, my load, and me do...
 
I think a single shot would be much superior, but not necessarily necessary. I think, from why I've read of others using cap n ball guns, that it'll work out just fine.
 
Thanks everyone,

I have been all over Cabella's looking at all the Pietta's for sale. I think I have settled on the 1858 Remington .44 because of the top strap.

I love my single shot percussion rifle and it is the workhorse of hunting, but this sidearm has really got my attention. I like that I can buy extra cylinders and have them loaded and ready to go..er .. um.. just in case.

For $230.00 bucks, that is a price hard to beat.

Wait... they have the..brass frame 1851 .44 cal Confederate Navy for $179.00..

I love revolvers but my carry piece is a Khar P9, other than that I have no other interest in modern firearms.

I think I'm going to like BP revolvers. :thumbsup:

I got to save up a bit, I'll post a pic of my new acquisition when I buy.

Not to open up a can of worms... but the brass frame vs steel frame. The brass frame, will it not stand up to repeated shots? That 1858 Buffalo with the brass frame is a SWEET looking revolver. But I put HUNDREDS of rounds through my guns. WIll the brass frame stand up to that kind of abuse?

Thanks!
 
The brass framed guns are a little weaker and most folks agree that the powder charge should be kept on the light side for them.

It's not that the cylinder or barrel is weaker but the cylinder arbor on the Colt style guns has been known to loosen up.
This is the large central rod that the cylinder rotates on.

The cylinder also can beat the poo out of the recoil shield on a brass framed gun is heavy powder loads are used.

All in all, I recommend getting a steel framed gun.
Not only will it last longer but its resale value is higher if you ever decide to sell it.
 
Agree. Def steel frame if you ever want to "push it" on loads.

A little more expensive, but worth it.
 
The guys are right about the merits of steel over brass.

I like the brass look.
I beat up on my brass 1851 and when it needs replaceing it will be replaced, most likely with anouther 1851 brass frame and this one will become parts.
 
crockett said:
The single shot- yeah, I have one of those as well and I'll tell why. Usualy I'm up in a tree but sometimes I go into areas where I have to sit on the ground. I'm in the deep south and deer can be right on top of you. A few years back a small forkhorn came in on my right and stopped about 15 feet away. What to do? I'm right handed and the rifle was angled across my legs/lap pointed to the left. If I tried to move the gun so I could shoot left handed- too much movement, I'd spook the deer. If I had brought a 50 or 54 caliber Hawken type pistol I could have easily shot that deer.
What happened??? After 15 minutes I "lost it" and tried moving the rifle and "gone deer".

I sometimes carry a (modern) .22 pistol for similar situations with squirrels, even when hunting with my flintlock. Dang annoying to have one come up on my right and I can't swing the long gun around without spooking the squirrel. When I'm sitting, I place the pistol on the ground next to me so I won't have to draw it from the holster in such situations.
 
The Remington 1858 steel frame from Cabelas is an excellect C&B revolver value. If you can wait, Cabelas sometimes has them on sale for under $200. I got two of them that way.

The Ruger Old Army, while not a copy of a specific gun, is probably the best C&B ever made for strength, reliability, and accuracy. Ruger discontinued them some years ago and most go for well over $600 these days. HOWEVER, if you stay with C&B revolvers, keep your eyes open. They can be found in estate sales or gunstore consignment sales for much less. This takes some vigilence and luck but can be done. I have three of them and paid less than $350 for each. (Like I said, luck helps!)

Jeff
 
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