First Flint--Trade Gun

[Cosmoline]

After many different firearms, this is my first true "gun"--a trade gun in the Old Northwest style. It's a 12 ga, which I gather is not entirely authentic but I'm not terribly worried about being HC. Plus 12 is better than 20 against a bruin.

According to the seller it's a Curly Gostomski gun . The lock says "Lott" on it and has a sitting fox. The barrel has the same fox and has a signature underneath in difficult-to-read script that say something like "G. Shreiner" ? Maybe Shriner. The buttplate is brass nailed into place. The sight is a single brass blade. It's an extremely simple, surprisingly lightweight gun.

Is there anyway to tell if it is a Curly gun? Did he sign his work or put his stamp on them?

I haven't tried it out yet but I have a .69 Lee mold but the bore roughly calipers out a notch bigger than that. I may go a size up for roundball if these turn out to be overly loose. Obviously you can add extra thick patches but that only goes so far.

I'm also going to try out buckshot and some lighter shot for small game.

Anyone know what this strip of leather hanging off the trigger guard is supposed to be for?

 

[David Teague]

Hey Cos,

Looks like a Curly gun to me, he made his with the marking you'd find on a extant one. Lott, the seating Fox, Barnett, etc.

The strap-o-leather must have had a frizzen cover on it at one time. The cover goes on the frizzen when packing the gun on half cock as a type of safety. If the hammer should fly forward, the flint hits... leather. Not steel.

Have fun, see you out at Rabbit Creek range sometimes (unless you only shoot at Birchwood)

Cheers,

David

 

[paulvallandigham]

The leather "thing " is what is left of a " Hammer Stall", or frizzen cover. You can replace it. Someone has obviously cut it off or torn it off. Use soft leather and sew a little triangular shaped hood that fits easily over the frizzen, and has an 8 inch or longer tail to attach to the trigger guard, in front of the trigger. Cut a slit at the end of this "tail", long enough that you can loop the stall through the slit and around the trigger guard, and you are ready.

The cover is left in place as a " Safety " device, so that even if the cock slipped out of the half or full cock notch, it could not make sparks and fire the gun. With the stall attached to the trigger guard by the tail, its easily removed when you see game, and are lifting your gun to shoot. It won't get lost in the excitement.

IDEA: Some people cut a finger tip off an old leather glove and sew a tail to it, to make this kind of hammer stall.

 

Cosmo,

On the HC thing, don't worry too much. Henry Leman made NW guns in .70 cal in the 1840's. I'd be more worried about shooting the darned thing. If you're loading it for bear, it'll be a bruiser on both ends. Real nice gun and a fine piece of the history of the modern resurgence of muzzleloading.

Sean

 

[renovato]

That one's a real beauty! Let us know how she shoots.

 

[temple]

that leather like they said is most likely for a frizzen cover, but i use a similar set up to hold a touch hole prick and pan whisk. it keeps it close at hand, and i never have to dig through my reenacting or shooting box to look for it is always right there. however mine is attached to the rear sling swivel of my bess which is connected to the trigger guard. if you are going to rely on this for bruins like you said i wouldn't connect anything to that trigger guard just for the off chance that it could bind your trigger. good luck its a real beauty of a gun.

 

[Cosmoline]

Thanks! Looks like I've got some sewing to do. I turned an old project pouch into a shot bag which is shown underneath the lock. I sewed in a piece of scrap brass as a tube. I pour the shot in, cinch up the top and it's good to go. It works OK with buckshot and great with smaller stuff.

I'm impressed with the simplicity of the thing. These really were the AK-47's of their day. There's a great big lock with simple parts, a barrel that's little more than a tube sealed at the breach with a hole in it, and a nicely oversized trigger. It is unlike an AK in that this trigger is actually pretty crisp. Heavy, but crisp.

Tonight I cast my first .690" roundballs.

I wish I could read the barrel signature. I can't find "G. Shreiner" referenced anywhere. If that is the name I'm seeing.

 

[Bountyhunter]

Congrats, you have history in your hands. Maybe Schreiner was an owner. Does the guy you bought it from know?

 

[mazo kid]

Congrats, you have history in your hands. Maybe Schreiner was an owner. Does the guy you bought it from know?

That would be my guess also.

 

[matt denison]

Cosmoline, e-mail me at: [email protected] for more information on your trade gun and the old North Star Enterprises.

Matt Denison

 

[rkmeyer]

A very nice find. Who did the scrim on the horn? Sure looks like your eventual target.
Dusty

 

[Cosmoline]

The horn was done by a forum member, but the auction was taken off before I could leave feedback. I can't remember their username now. It's a great horn, though. Very nice and steady flow.

 

[torn moc]

I have the same Lock on a 8 guage Blunderbuss..it sure is a Sparker! Nice smooth quick action.

 

[Cosmoline]

I swung out to the range with it and had a chance to cap off some .690" cast roundball. The .690" are a little small and slid in very easily even with my heavy ticking. I have a .715" on order that I'm hoping will work better, though it may be too big.

For loads it seemed to prefer 95 grains of FFG. I put a card on that then the PRB.

I'm not used to going without a rear sight so I had to march up to the black:

I don't know how that compares with other targets. It was only 25 yards but I'm sure I can tighten it up with more practice.

The big lock is great. It's an old Italian LOTT lock. 100% pan ignition. By shot 12 the hole was getting soot and I had some ftf's. I had forgotten my pick and was out of balls anyway.

It was pretty chilly out there today. I managed to do most operations with gloves on, though getting the card in place and picking up the balls with gloves was not easy. Actually cocking and shooting with wool gloves was easy thanks to the generous guard size.

 

[arquebus]

Cosmoline, you might try rolling those .690" balls between a couple of mill bastard files. That will increase their diameter by a few thousandths which may give you the better bore fit you're looking for. Just roll them between the files until they look like mini golf balls.

 

[Many Klatch]

Curly subbed out his gun construction to different builders. Some very good gun builders got their start building guns for Curly. Curly knew everybody and was able to get some good builders. I think you will find the quality to be quite good. I think the early ones were all built from total scratch without any precarved stocks.

For a rear sight try cutting a groove in the tang for a left and right reference. After that it is a matter of remembering how much front sight to show. Unfortunately, the only way to learn to shoot without a rear sight is to practice practice practice. :grin:

Enjoy your new gun.

Many Klatch

 

[Cosmoline]

I'm noting I do better if I don't think as I would with a rifle. I'm used to shooting with a rear sight, but with this thing it's as if there is a magic spot you just have to remember deep in your brain. More like archery than rifle shooting. You cannot think about it or you go off center.

One thing is for sure, it's just about the most fun I've had shooting in years! There's such an elegant simplicity to the firearm. If I'd had more roundball and a proper pick I could have continued shooting it all day. Unlike my more "advanced" Tryon with its fancy breech that gums up and requires extensive periodic cleaning to keep going.