First flintlock necessities?

[Pete G]

Aw go ahead and buy the useless stuff too; you're going to end up with it anyway.

 

[Twisted_1in66]

For the most part, I have found that 3fg powder works fine in the pan. I don't think that you need to make a special trip to get 4f powder.

At this point keep things as simple as possible.

Amen to that. Just get the 3F and use it both for prime and main charge. Yes the 4F will burn slightly faster but you have to use scientific instruments to verify the small difference. K-I-S-S applies.

Also, expect to use a heavier charge than 50-grains. Different rifles like different charges. My Early Lancaster rifle seems to like 80 grains and my Traditions PA Longrifle likes a 95 gr. charge for best accuracy. I'm surprised that someone gets any accuracy at more than about 25 yards with a .50 cal using just 50-grains. But different charges work for different guns so that could be.

If you have time to spend at the range, I'd suggest you start with a 50 or 60-gr. load and fire 5 shots to see how they appear on paper. Keep adding 5-grains per series of 5 shots until you get the best (tightest) grouping. After you get a decent grouping, keep adding 5 grains per 5-shot set until the grouping opens up a bit. Then go back to the one that preceded that and use it as your hunting load. Use the lighter load for short range plinking if you like.

Welcome to the dark side (a really cool place to be!)
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

 

[AZbpBurner]

Aw go ahead and buy the useless stuff too; you're going to end up with it anyway.

Sound advice. You can't use it if you don't have it, and it's best to be prepared.

.490" RB's are the right size - my bad, I posted .495, while they do work, you need a really thin patch, which brings up other issues.

 

[AZbpBurner]

Before firing that first shot, be sure you have a CLEAN barrel:

As soon as you get your new rifle, remove the barrel and flash hole liner and clean it out thoroughly. Carburetor cleaner works the best to cut the preservative grease applied at the factory for storage and shipping. It's difficult to remove with other cleaners, and if not completely removed, will not only cause rapid fouling, but can bake on and be really difficult to remove.

Everyone has pretty much covered all other aspects of cleaning, but you may want to re-read about cleaning the patent breech. I don't favor using regular metal bristle brushes in any muzzleloader bore anymore, since they have a tendency to come apart and become stuck in your bore. The twisted wire that holds the bristles and makes the brush itself is press fit into the threaded base. When you wedge a brush in tightly (especially into the reduced diameter Patent Breech area) it may, and eventually thru repeated use WILL come apart and is not pleasant or easy to remove. I have a slotted .22 rod tip I use with a large patch to cleanout the patent breech.

I use the usual hot soapy water, and hot water rinse to clean the bore, then spray in and wipe out WD-40 to displace water, then follow up with Birchwood Casey's Sheath. It is unexcelled for bore protection against rust; everything else is for amateurs, so start out with the best. Of course for long-term storage, RIG grease can't be beat.

 

[AZbpBurner]

This looks to me like it's all going to cost a bit, as it has for me. The rifle is the big easy bit & then the little bits add up.
So money, mate you need more money.
O.

And, unfortunately, everything costs more in Oz, especially all that duct tape you need to keep everything from falling off your shooting bench :idunno:

 

[roundball]

I don't favor using regular metal bristle brushes in any muzzleloader bore anymore, since they have a tendency to come apart and become stuck in your bore. The twisted wire that holds the bristles and makes the brush itself is press fit into the threaded base. When you wedge a brush in tightly (especially into the reduced diameter Patent Breech area) it may, and eventually thru repeated use WILL come apart and is not pleasant or easy to remove.

Very simple solution:
Don't use the cheap crimped on type of brushes.

Had that happen to me once 20+ years ago...bought the better quality brushes which have the twisted wire run 'THROUGH' the threaded attachement end so it can't pull out.
Been routinely using the the better quality brushes in several calibers ever since with never a problem.

 

[Brett K]

Here is what I picked up. Pardon my Irish setter's butt caught in the pic. He wasn't waking up for anything.

[/URL][/img]

 

[tecum-tha]

@BrettK:
I don't think Triple Seven (a black powder substitute) will work well if at all in a flintlock.
If it is a .50 cal, 3F black powder can be used as a main charge and as priming powder.
Do not use this bronze brush from the cleaning kit, as it is a crimped on model. Not suitable for muzzleloaders unless you want to start another "brush stuck in barrel what to do now?" thread shortly. This is the kind of brush to look for if you want to use one: http://www.proshotproducts.com/Black-Powder-Bore-Brushes_c_122.html

 

[roundball]

Good start...have to get some real blackpowder though.
Definitely should be a gun shop around there that would carry a couple # of Goex.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Take the trip you up 7 back right away! I do use pyrodex in my deerstalker and renegade, yet they are both caplocks so I'm able to with good results. Obtaining real BP is an absolute must, I've got five flinters and 5lbs of powder seems to be lasting awhile. Take everyones advice, BP substitutes just won't work reliably enough in a flintlock. Unfortunately that's why most people get fed up leading to those misconceptions. :thumbsup: you'll like your deerstalker, dialed mine in for 50yrds and she's a tack driver, by no means an accurate repo of any hawken rifle but she'll get ya hooked!

 

[Brett K]

Ugh! I was told at Cabelas that was real black powder! Everything else said substitute on it and FFF equivalent. This bottle did not. I drove an hour and a half for it.

 

[AZbpBurner]

I see the Triple 7 problem as more of an opportunity: You'll likely be getting another gun someday, and it may be a caplock. Save the Triple 7, and look around for a deal on a cap rifle. While not the ideal choice, Triple 7 will still work well in caplocks, and the value of your can of it lies in providing the leverage you may need to put another muzzloader in your cabinet.

 

[Brett K]

I like that plan!

 

[roundball]

Plus, when I switched from caplocks to Flintlocks, I had 8 pounds of Pyrodex RS at a steal on a year end close-out from a Wal-Mart store...but then never shot caplocks again.

As I began making Flintlock range trips every week year round, rather than waste the Pyrodex, I got a lot of empty 35mm film canisters from photo places and set them up so I could use duplex loads for practicing at the range.
I filled 50 canisters with 20 grains Goex 3F, and another 50 with 50/60/70/80/90 grains of Pyrodex RS depending on what I wanted to shoot.

Poured the Goex igniter charge downbore first, then poured down whatever amount of Pyrodex I was using that day, worked perfectly / accurate, etc...used up the entire 8 pounds that way.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I would replace that take-down cleaning rod with a solid one piece loading/cleaning/range rod.

 

[Crewdawg445]

That's why they work at cabelas, lol, to make a sale!

 

[Twisted_1in66]

I bought some 777 when I first started Rev War reenacting and it worked about 2/3 of the time. The Pyrodex I already had did not work at all. I had a little 3f Black Powder in a jar that I had used about 30-years before I got my first longrifle for a caplock Kentucky pistol and it worked absolutely GREAT.

Real Black Powder is really the only way to go for flintlocks. The substitutes require about an additional 350° to 450° to ignite, which is why they work well in caplocks but not in flintlocks.

About 2 weeks after I bought the Triple 7, I found out there was a BP supplier 6 miles from my home (in VT at the time). The nearby shale quarries used it for blasting so there was a local supplier.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

 

[Len Graves]

I agree with most of the things said except the brush. Have never seen the need for a brush. What they all forgot to include is a five gallon bucket of patience. Not really, but when a flinter fails it can strain your nerves. When they are working there is nothing like the feeling. I am just saying there is a learning curve ( I am working on more than 40 years) and I feel I am closing on it. Don't give up the wait is worth it. Besides they teach humility and a new vocabulary.

 

[B.Habermehl]

If you went to cebelas you were only 12 Miles's from Dixons muzzloader shop. East on I 78 three exits from RT 61 where cebelas is. Get off on RT 737, go north 3 miles you will see their sign on the right. You can get real black powder there they also sell ffffg by the 1/4 lb which is more sensible in quantity. Also more importantly you will get expert information. BJH

 

[AZbpBurner]

Plus, when I switched from caplocks to Flintlocks, I had 8 pounds of Pyrodex RS at a steal on a year end close-out from a Wal-Mart store...but then never shot caplocks again.

As I began making Flintlock range trips every week year round, rather than waste the Pyrodex, I got a lot of empty 35mm film canisters from photo places and set them up so I could use duplex loads for practicing at the range.
I filled 50 canisters with 20 grains Goex 3F, and another 50 with 50/60/70/80/90 grains of Pyrodex RS depending on what I wanted to shoot.

Poured the Goex igniter charge downbore first, then poured down whatever amount of Pyrodex I was using that day, worked perfectly / accurate, etc...used up the entire 8 pounds that way.

Yep, same with me. I still shoot caps on occasion, and I got several # of Pyrodex RS. It's about a 300 mile round trip to my nearest BP source, and I don't get out that way often. I have a 5 grain measure for BP, and use the adjustable measure set for 70-75 grains depending on which rifle, and the stuff works fine; every bit as good as using 100% PB, which I'll do in a couple of years when I'm out of that Pyrodex.