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first inlay experience

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dlocke

40 Cal.
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Thanks to 41 Aeronca's post on his Lyman GPR kit, I decided that the cheekpiece on my investarms hawken was not quite what I wanted, and that I really liked the inlay on his GPR, so I decided to give it a shot. I delineated the cheekpiece a second time, giving it a nice flow into the stock, and rasped & sanded it flatter to fit me better. Then with the inlay. I found a piece of 3" x 1" x 1/32" brass plate and made a 4-point star pattern and glued it on. Rough cut with snips and finished with files and it cane out perfect. Was kind of nervous cutting into the cheekpiece to inlet the thing, but figured it was necessary practive and if I screwed up I could rasp & sand the cheekpiece again. Actually, I did a pretty good job and the inlay fit perfectly. My plan was to glue the brass in place with 30-minute epoxy and use 3, 1/2" brass escutcheon pins longitudinally to secure the inlay. I marked and drilled pilot holes in the bras and about 1/4" down into the wood. Then I screwed up. I put the epoxy in place and set the inlay. I tapped the middle brad in plach with a tack hammer & 1/4' dowel. No problem. Then I put in the end pins and they caused the lond ends of the inlay to pop up when I set them fully. I tried to work the tips back in plave but it was no go. Luckily, my 30-minute epoxy takes a hell of a lot longer than 30 minutes to set up hard, so I poured myself a couple fingers of Maker's Mark and thought about it. I wound up grinding the brad heads off with my dremel tool and I popped the inlay right out and cleaned up the epoxy as best I could. I couldn;t get any purchase on the exposed brad shanks, so I used a punch to drive them down and in about 1/8". I flattened the brass and curved the tips in to fit (again), mixed up a new batch of epoxy, and set the inlay in place with a couple small c-clamps holding it snugly in place. Next morning it was secure, but the brass looked like hell after the ordeal it had been through. I had inlet it below flush, so I started working the cheekpiece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 150. It came out nice & shiny and flush. Now the only thing is that I still have 3 holes in the inlay, and I can't drive in new brads b/c of the shanks that are under the holes. My plan is to carefully clean out the drill holes with the appropriate bit and cut some shot brads. Then I can use a sewing pin to put a little epoxy in the holes and set the mini-brads.
All in all, a great learning experience, and now I know what NOT to do.
DJL
 
Thanks for passing that on. I'm nervous about inlaying also and intend to do a few practice runs before tackling one of my stocks. I would have made the same mistakes so that's valuable info. :)
 
I could have, and SHOULD have, studied more before jumping in. I do have books on the subject, after all. I noticed that Alexander, in Gunsmith/Grenville uses carpet tacks to hold inlays in place while the glue dries. Great idea, as they are tapered and you can pull them out after the glue sets and THEN set your pins. he also has a way of avoiding pop-ups by filing the edges of the inlay at an angle and angling the inlet sides so it is sort of like a dovetail. That is too far out for me, but I like his carpet tack idea.
DJL
 
Scott, it is fun, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who can't deal with reasonable amounts of stress. My inlay came out nice. It is nothing fancy, but a good start for better things to come.
DJL
 
I found the most stressful part to be making the first cut. After that, it was just an enjoyable exercise... :grin:
Scott
 
Just a few finger of Makers Mark? Ah, this gun building is my kind of problem solving. Good show!
 
dlocke said:
...I put the epoxy in place and set the inlay. I tapped the middle brad in plach with a tack hammer & 1/4' dowel. No problem. Then I put in the end pins and they caused the lond ends of the inlay to pop up when I set them fully...
Darren,
I'm thinking that the pop up might have been caused by the thickness of your inlay stock. My inlay is about 5/64 thick, two and a half times thicker than what you used. You might try some thicker stock on your next piece.
I forgot, from our earlies posts, but can you post some pics of the inlay work? Love to see it.
Scott
 
Scott: PM me your email addy and I'll take a pic later today and email it to you.
You are right about the thickness of the brass stock, but it was all I had at the time. Worked out ok in the end. I ordered some brass sheet stock from tack as I had to order up a mainspring vise anyway. My new chambers lock is too nice to use visegrips. Now, re my upcoming colonial longrifle kit, the question becomes. . . .to patchbox or not to patchbox??
DJL
 
Woop, just noticed that your email is on youtr profile page. I'll send a pic this afternoon. BTW, I spent many years building and flying RC planes, do you own a 1941 Aeronca? If so, cool.
DJL
 
Gentlemen: There is a neat feature that allows personal messages to be sent to one another without filling the regular posts with things not directly related to them.
Please use the Private Topic system for personal discussions.

(Dam, I hate it when I have to post stuff like this.)
zonie :)
 
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