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JB Weld on oversized wood holes....??

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I also prefer cutting plugs over using dowels to repair stripped screw holes. Screws hold better in face grain than they do in end grain. Plugs are more work, but should last a couple hundred years. I've stripped a couple screws using dowels repairing furniture. As always, there is more than one way to do it.
 
Building cars and muzzle loaders are apples and oranges.
use a product for muzzle loaders, not 350’s.

Wood dowel and wood glue. It’ll be there for 200 years.
 
I stripped out the threads on a buttplate screw once. I simply filled the hole with epoxy, then inserted the screw, coated in Vaseline. I let the epoxy harden then removed the screw, took off the Vaseline, then when the time came to install the buttplate permanently, screwed the screw back in to the new expoxied threads. I don't ever remove the buttplate after I finish a gun, and this fix worked. In fact that fix was done over a decade ago, and the screw is still tight. Nobody knows its there but me so who cares.
 
Define "gun work".

In a pinch I have mixed fine steel and or aluminum millings with JB and bedded a couple three actions on unmentionables with it. It is a very economical option if it's days out before Brownells or Midway can deliver anything.
Hard pass, JB is runny as BeeJeebers and a PITA to keep in place plus it is too rigid and will crack eventually when it finally sets.
Devcon 10110, Marinetex or Bisonite are the only things to bed CFR with.
 
Hard pass

Ok, so, what?

JB is runny as BeeJeebers and a PITA to keep in place

So is acraglass and others. Let it set up a little bit and it's less "runny as BeeJeebers". Use clay dams to keep runny bedding in place. Gotta be smarter than you appear to be.

plus it is too rigid and will crack eventually when it finally sets.

Um, no, it won't but adding an aggregate is cheap insurance.

Devcon 10110, Marinetex or Bisonite are the only things to bed CFR with.

Devcon Steel and Devcon Titanium are my first choices. Marine Tex, meh. Works great for a texturing compound but there's better available for bedding. Bisonite is outdated and hard to find, and for a reason, there are much better products since it was even a thing.
 
So is acraglass and others. Let it set up a little bit and it's less "runny as BeeJeebers". Use clay dams to keep runny bedding in place. Gotta be smarter than you appear to be.



Classy response, your my hero.
 
I'm building a kibler colonial, coming along very well. I did run into an issue with butt plate fitment. The supplied screws had terrible threads...and I caught hell fitting it perfectly. Ended up snapping a screw, and decided to plug it, after drilling out left over screw shank in stock. Ended up with a larger hole, which I plugged with tooth picks and epoxy. That didn't work and wallowed out hole. Thought to use JB weld, but ended up drilling out hole to 7/16" and epoxing a like sized section of dowel. Curing now.

What's the opinion of this vs JB weld?
My impression is the JB would be tough to drill and begin threading a coarse threaded wood screw with out tapping first??

Btw, the bad screw is not kiblers fault at all. These things happen and I don't expect perfection on every little detail in life. His kits are excellent and very well made and designed. Can't wait to build another really.
As strong a proponent as I am of JB Weld, I'd drill the holes out and plug them with dowel using Elmers Carpenters glue to glue them in. Just a light wash of glue both in the hole and on the dowel. Use a Q-tip. Then insert the dowel and clamp it in place somehow. Let dry overnight.
 
JB weld has no value in gun work, it will lead to poor workmanship and shoddy results.
Imagine! A glue capable of all that!

Most people have no clue about glues in general. Let alone a specific adhesive. JB has its uses but it isn't the wunder glue so many consider it to be. And the vast majority of problems people have with it are the result of ignorance not on the glues part, but on the users part.
 
Hard pass, JB is runny as BeeJeebers and a PITA to keep in place plus it is too rigid and will crack eventually when it finally sets.
Devcon 10110, Marinetex or Bisonite are the only things to bed CFR with.
Add saw dust to the JB to thicken it up. Baking soda works too as will flour and any similar material.
Thin JB with isopropyl Alcohol but literally only a drop at a time. A single drop is too much for a quarter sized blob of glue.

Last but not least, once the hole is plugged and the new screws have been inserted once to cut the threads, soak the clean new threads with super glue. The bottles with the long, thin applicator tube are best for this. Let dry over night. Next day check for un-cured glue in the holes. If there is some blow it out or quickly dip a tooth pic in and out of the hole to sop up remaining glue. Let dry some more. Worse comes to worse add a drop of water to each hole. Give it a few minutes and then re-cut the threads. Water, moisture in the air is what makes super glues to fire off.

Once dry clean up the threads by putting the screws back in and out again. Where possible I frill a small hole all the way through the work so I can blow the excess glue out from the other side. Naturally you can't always do this.



Just remember, too much super glue in the holes will prevent most the glue from setting up. You have to make sure those holes are dry before any install of the parts. Otherwise you could end up with two screws glued into your gun.
 
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About any decent wood glue, CA glue, epoxy etc will work well to secure a plug. If the hole is at the comb of the buttplate, remember to offset it towards the barrel breach so the screw pulls the buttplate forward as it's tightened. If you need any replacement screws just let us know.

Jim
 
About any decent wood glue, CA glue, epoxy etc will work well to secure a plug. If the hole is at the comb of the buttplate, remember to offset it towards the barrel breach so the screw pulls the buttplate forward as it's tightened. If you need any replacement screws just let us know.

Jim
I would shy away from the CA's. Too hard to control where it might run to. And wood that has been glued with CA tends to take stain and such differently.
 
This is under the buttplate. You will not see a thing. Medium viscosity CA glue is very controllable as well. Don’t overthink and trust us. It is after all our product.
I knew it was under the butt plate but I offered a bit of general education of the matter. And thicker CA is indeed more controllable. But why use it? The stuff is a known hazard to ones health.

And just for the record I've been building radio controlled models for 65 years. I've used all these glues extensively in those years on a variety of woods. And a number of glues you can't find anymore. I keep a small bottle of CA around just in case. But Elmers and epoxy I buy by the boat load. But that's OK, I can refrain from helping on a matter I know something about.
 
Appowner……….. you have no idea who you’re talking to!
Ok, you know glue……. Jim knows gun building.
Thats what we’re talking about isn’t it?
We're talking about plugging a couple of bad screw holes in a piece of wood. Something I have done many, many times. And I'll wager there's a whole bunch of people in this world who know nothing about guns yet know as much and even more than Jim about this.

And yes, I do know who Jim is. Currently the one arrogant enough to think he knows more than anyone else about this subject. Fine! I'll keep my own counsel from now on and not bother him further regarding my Woodsrunner or any of his products.

Nuff Said!
 

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