First kit build

[Smokepole_55]

Time to get started….. The only things I’ve encountered so far is the nose cap was a little too long, so I had to file about .200” off the side that butts up to forearm. The trigger guard had to have some material removed, but I expected that. Everything else fit very well with the exception of the tang screw and the trigger plate. The screw is just short of hitting the threads in the trigger plate. That is a work in progress. The barrel and tang fits plumb and flush, so I guess I have to remove some material were the trigger plate sits. The screws for the ramrod barrels will have to be filed a small amount to clearance the ramrod. Once these things are rectified I will be tackling the pins in the forearm. Please forgive me if my nomenclature is off

 

[Smokepole_55]

Okay, day two: drilling tenon pins.
I did not have a drill bit that measured.118” like the instructions called for. The closest I had was .123” so I measured some of the steel TIG filler rods I had and they measured.123”. What luck! Drilled the holes with a tightened spincter… turned out ok, however learned a lot in the process. Here is the difference between the pins provided in the kit and the ones I fabricated.

 

[Pete G]

You'll find the kibler kit far easier to build.

…and you will have a lot better rifle l

 

[James Kibler]

I use a flint shard. Sounds more impressive when I show things off and tell stories.

 

[azmntman]

You would be the one to know! I'd never have the patience to do what you do.
Done much carving with a pocket knife lately?

I don't carve. I whittle. So, I don't whittle on my guns. It's best this way. I can't even carve a turkey straight.

 

[Smokepole_55]

So got back on project today. The trigger plate presented a challenge but overcame it. Had to put a slight bend in trigger plate to reach tang screw. Wood sanded to approximate shape, still needs a small amount of tweaking. Had to put a slight bend in barrel tang to match contour to wood. Also had to remove some more material from the brass barrel cap where it contacted the forearm. All dry fitting done! Now have to wait on materials for finishing barrel and wood. Also had to remove some material from the stock to properly fit trigger guard.

 

[Smokepole_55]

Finally put some stain on the wood. I had wanted a color with a little more red in it, so I ended up using birchwood Casey Rusty walnut. Not sure what color will look like once the tru oil is applied, however digging the color right now. The stain is a water based stain, and it raised the grain a lot. Plans are to burnish before tru oil, then wet sand with tru oil after second coat of tru oil and consecutive coats until desired finish is achieved. Any tips would be great.

 

[trackpin]

I just got done building an NOS sears Kentucky rifle. It too had that 2 piece beech looking stock with severe clash. I got rid of the brass separator and cut some end grain ash, that is, with the grain of that running the same way as the other pieces, to take up the space and used a machined steel tube as extra support in the ramrod hole where they joined as well as the 2 steel dowels it came with. Goofed up using the ash, it is a lot lighter, but it is what I thought would be good for that since it is porous and would absorb the slow setting epoxy used. What I found, Feibing's leather dye in medium brown, pretty much a striking look with hints of red to it in the sun or bright lighting, did the trick and you really have to look hard to see the grain difference or clash between the fore end and the stock proper. I believe this uses alcohol as the dye carrier, it's not oil. I applied one application then used a brush with more to mimic the grain that was lacking on the fore part and got rid of the ash spacer that way. Prep is rather different with that type of wood as opposed to cherry or walnut, maple. After shaping I went to 220 then after wetting to raise the grain, and that beechy stuff has an abundance of grain that likes to raise, I then used that purple 320 grit paper with a block followed by hand. After applying the leather dye, letting it dry overnight, I judiciously used fine steel wool to lighten up certain areas. After using a tack cloth, I sprayed it with minwax interior clear satin poly thinned with Nason automotive base coat thinner. First coat soaked in and looked blotchy, but I expected that. After an overnight dry I again went over it with the 320. 2nd coat, much less soak. This time, after the overnight dry, I wet sanded any imperfections out being very careful not to break through the finish, followed by the fine steel wool, more of an adhesion promoter than anything. My intent was to do 4 coats but after the third coat it looked great, and I know when to stop. Sounds like a lot of work and it is for a cheap ass gun however the results speak for themselves. I know that there is no way anybody is going to finish one of these in traditional methods and get anything even close to looking this good. The wood they use on these dooms them to having to be stained and finished in this manner or similar. The downside is a nick or scratch will show what is underneath and it aint pretty!

 

[Smokepole_55]

Got the barrel blued, sights mounted and applied the first coat of tru oil.

 

[yellowhammer]

I went bass-ackwards from most in here and completed a Woodsrunner as my first kit. Then, recently bought a SDI Shenadoah kit from a member in here and have it close to the same stage of completion as your KY.

 

[Smokepole_55]

Finished final assembly after five coats of tru oil. Waiting on flints, patch lube, patches, powder and bullet casting mold. Looking forward to sighting in.

 

[BoomStick]

Got the barrel blued, sights mounted and applied the first coat of tru oil.

Blue on the barrel looks great. Did you use birchwood perma blue?

 

[Smokepole_55]

Blue on the barrel looks great. Did you use birchwood perma blue?

Yes I did

 

[yellowhammer]

Okay, day two: drilling tenon pins...Here is the difference between the pins provided in the kit and the ones I fabricated.

I used 3/32 dowel pins.

 

[yellowhammer]

(deleted)

 

[reddogge]

Finally put some stain on the wood. I had wanted a color with a little more red in it, so I ended up using birchwood Casey Rusty walnut. Not sure what color will look like once the tru oil is applied, however digging the color right now. The stain is a water based stain, and it raised the grain a lot. Plans are to burnish before tru oil, then wet sand with tru oil after second coat of tru oil and consecutive coats until desired finish is achieved. Any tips would be great.

In the future, apply your aniline dyes and when dry, use a damp rag to dampen the surface. You will get an idea of what the finished color will be. By doing this you can adjust the depth of color before adding your finish.