• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

First Muzzleloading Kit Build Thread

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

granth

40 Cal
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Messages
348
Reaction score
584
Location
Hutto, TX
Hello y’all, I just received a Traditions .50 Caliber Flintlock for my recent birthday. I am super excited to build it, and I will update this thread with my build progress. Wish me luck!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    70.8 KB
If I might offer some advice, don't get too excited and rush it. One area often not done correctly are the lock panels and sideplate panels. Sand with a flat block and keep the panels flat and the edges of the panel sharp, don't round off the edges. Take your time and don't be afraid to ask questions, enjoy!
 
But do really thin out the fore end and taper the fore end into the barrel.

Most first-time kit builders will leave the lock panels too wide. The panel at the bottom of the lock should be about 1/8" to 3/16" wide. You can go more at the front and rear of the lock.

Do take your time. Do polish up the internal surfaces of your lock and triggers, especially the points that rub.
 
DAY 1:
Today I unboxed, and staeted dry fitting the parts. The lock fits snug and tight, as well as the tang, trigger assembly and trigger guard. I estimate I am around halfway done with the dry fitting process. The building so far has gone very smoothly, and I have had no major issues. So far I have spent 3 hours on the build.
 
My first and only build was a Traditions Kentucky rifle kit. It is by the standards most forum members have pretty rough, as I didn't really take as much time as I could have on it. But it shoots great and I'm happy with it. That's all that really matters.
 
My first and only build was a Traditions Kentucky rifle kit. It is by the standards most forum members have pretty rough, as I didn't really take as much time as I could have on it. But it shoots great and I'm happy with it. That's all that really matters.
Very true!
 
I can see you’re having fun with your build and are doing well with it. I’d like to encourage you to trim the lock panels. It will make a much better looking rifle with a minimum of effort. Here’s an example for your consideration.
IMG_0387 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
Thanks for the image! This will really help me out when I'm profiling that lock panel.
 
mess???? what mess! one needs a front end loader to approach my bench and vise!
looking great!
i have never built a kit as such, but have used a couple pre carved stock. the hardest thing for me was taking wood away as Phil recommends. But done it makes the rifle so much more svelte. less clunky. my second one Phil advised slimming the panels after i was done with the finish. i went ahead and did it and refinished. really glad i did. i slimmed the wrist too at the same time. have come to the conclusion that they are never really done!
 
Last edited:
Just fit the trigger guard and disaster struck! I dry fired it and the screw holding the two jaws together broke. Its not surprising however, because after inspecting the screw, we noticed the very grainy casting. Ill order another one and get it fixed.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    54.4 KB
Yeah, you don't want to dry fire a flintlock without a flint or a wooden "false" flint in the jaws. As you found out, the screw will contact the frizzen, bending it (or in your case) breaking it.
 
A good rule of thumb, is to take off as much wood as you think you should, then take off more. Most leave way too much wood on a stock, especially those building a long rifle.
Another thing many fail at, is having a lock mortise too tight. I like to be able to remove the lock bolts, and be able to tip a gun on it's side, and have the lock fall out of the stock, or nearly so. If too tight, and they get wet, that can cause a split. English guns were all built like this. Also, when tightening lock bolts, they should just be snug, not torqued down. This can cause the lock plate to bend, causing function problems.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top