I don't know why, but more cracks and the cracks that already formed are getting deeper. For example, a new crack just showed up where the tang is and it's growing. Any help is appreciated. I don't know the issue with the wood, but it seems like it's expanding and cracking due to some sort of stress. Even if it is fixed, I still question the integrity of the wood.
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First Muzzleloading Kit Build Thread
- Thread starter granth
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I would agree on it's integrity might be too far gone if more cracks are showing up.
Yeah, it sucks because I really liked the figure of that wood. Hopefully on Monday I’ll call Traditions and see if I can get a replacement of some kind.
McGuire2003
40 Cal
I suspect the moisture content of the wood is changing drastically. Either the wood was not thoroughly dry through and through when you started your build, or your shop is rather high in moisture content. Once the rifle was taken out of that environment it began to dry within, causing your wood checking issues.
After drying hundreds of bow staves I have seen a bunch of cracking. I have seen very dry bow staves crack after a week or so of abnormally dry weather in my area. The ambient MC average is 12%, this particular week it got down to zilch.
I would say your stock wasn't completely cured wood and a bit green when it was sent out. In my area wood is dry at 12% MC, I won't put wood in my drying box if it is over 16% because it will more than likely crack even with this small percentage of extra moisture.
I would say your stock wasn't completely cured wood and a bit green when it was sent out. In my area wood is dry at 12% MC, I won't put wood in my drying box if it is over 16% because it will more than likely crack even with this small percentage of extra moisture.
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I can imagine how heartbreaking it is for you to see this happening after doing so much to build your rifle and proudly showing it to us. The cracking of your stock is something that should not have happened had it been properly prepared and sent to you the customer.
I would certainly hope you get a free replacement stock. (I would demand one.)
Of course the hours of work you did are lost and can’t be returned but maybe you can look at them as skills development, and your next build will be all the better because of it.
Best wishes and keep us posted on your path ahead.
-Bob
I would certainly hope you get a free replacement stock. (I would demand one.)
Of course the hours of work you did are lost and can’t be returned but maybe you can look at them as skills development, and your next build will be all the better because of it.
Best wishes and keep us posted on your path ahead.
-Bob
user 53430
32 Cal
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It is always good practice to seal any kind of wood project by putting the same finish on all sides of the wood (inside and outside). This helps stabilize the moisture content in the wood by putting a barrier completely around the wood. Not all finishes are good at this and others are very good.
Lathe turners use super glue to seal cracks that form in the wood. Epoxy (clear or wood color versions) works well for larger cracks, Work it as deep as possible with a small instrument (pin, needle or tooth pick, etc). If done well it will be stronger than the wood. You can also put wood sawdust in the super glue or epoxy as a filler and color blending agent.
Lathe turners use super glue to seal cracks that form in the wood. Epoxy (clear or wood color versions) works well for larger cracks, Work it as deep as possible with a small instrument (pin, needle or tooth pick, etc). If done well it will be stronger than the wood. You can also put wood sawdust in the super glue or epoxy as a filler and color blending agent.
I recommend titebond wood glue should you decide gluing any part of your stock, stains won't show up differently with it as it will with super glue or epoxy unless you first tint them.
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Gotta ask
When you dry balled you didn't double ball did you.? That is not too difficult of a fix if you choose to go that way
When you dry balled you didn't double ball did you.? That is not too difficult of a fix if you choose to go that way
No. I didn't double ball luckily. I was able to get those balls out by just by putting some powder behind ball through the touch hole and that worked pretty well.
user 53430
32 Cal
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Titebond is very strong when used with pressure fit joints in wood. But it is not strong when used as a filler and will shrink in size requiring more applications.
I was addressing filling in the crack spaces, which I doubt can be pressed back together.
Since this was a kit, I wonder if too much wood may have been removed by the factory when inletting the lock, trigger, or barrel? If so it may be weak in that area. Manufacturing has shifted from Italy to Spain on most of those kits. New company, new people anything is possible.
Really sorry to see this happen and I agree that there was a moisture content problem with the stock and not your fault. If this was a built from scratch project then repairing the wood would be the way to go. However, this problem came from the factory and would have eventually manifested itself.
The problem I see is that with shipping being slow and unreliable these days, getting a replacement stock from the factory might take a while. When you talk to customer service, see if the stock can be found in supplies already here in the US. You might also check EBay or one of the online gun sales sights to see if your stock is available as a "part".
The problem I see is that with shipping being slow and unreliable these days, getting a replacement stock from the factory might take a while. When you talk to customer service, see if the stock can be found in supplies already here in the US. You might also check EBay or one of the online gun sales sights to see if your stock is available as a "part".
BozoMiller
40 Cal
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CA glue works very good, if you plan on glueing. But personally I would ask for a replacement stock from the manufacture.
Good news everyone! After a couple days, the cracks have mostly all gone away, and the tolerances have gone flush and back to normal. I think this is because we let it dry out and the wood's moisture content has lowered. Even the huge crack on the bottom has decreased significantly! I’m very happy about this.
Rock Home Isle
54 Cal.
Congratulations, that is great news
Glad to hear it. onward and upward!
Grant, that's good to hear. Are you still pursuing a talk with Traditions to let them know the problem? I would recommend it anyway. That way they know that you had a quality problem so that they can address it and they might suggest a solution to keep the stock from degrading.
Yeah, I've talked with them and they recommended keeping it inside for a couple days in order to control the moisture a little better. Seems to be working!
Great but just remember that the cracks didn’t go away, they just closed up and the stock is still cracked. Unless you injected some good glue the cracks it will not remain stable.
Once the moisture content has been corrected, you may want to put a really good sealing finish on that stock inside and out.
Good luck and good shooting!
Once the moisture content has been corrected, you may want to put a really good sealing finish on that stock inside and out.
Good luck and good shooting!
Rock Home Isle
54 Cal.
Brought the kit home tonight. I’ll start on it this week. Little bit at a time, enjoy the project.
Once this is done, I want to take my old original .50 CVA Mountain Rifle, and convert it to a .54 calibre Flintlock.
But first…this kit…
