Do you have pictures? I did not know that TC made a Tennessee Mountain Rifle. Would love to see a picture.
Dave
Dave
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First outing with new (to me) dixie tennessee mountain rifle
- Thread starter gbeauvin
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Tom Compton
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I sold him my Dixie Po Boy.
TC
TC
rustyh
40 Cal.
Guess I should have put "40 Flint's" Dixie Tennessee instead of "TC's" on my post last night. Sorry for the confusion. 
Tom Compton
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Dude, I knew what you meant! No one else maybe but I did.
Ahh -- got it. :grin:
Dave
Dave
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I bought a leftie Tenn rifle for my wife some 30 years ago. Problem is, the muzzle is above her eye level. Hard for her to see where to pour the powder :rotf: her problem is being vertically challenged. I have to do the loading when she does shoot it.
I have always used English grey flints with all my flinters and used FFFg in the pan and barrel.
I have always used English grey flints with all my flinters and used FFFg in the pan and barrel.
... I have a musket with a 54" barrel that gives me the same problem!ord sgt said:
Reminds me of the article in the Foxfire 5 series about muzzleloading rifles. There is a picture of one of the Chunk gun shooters loading his rifle that has a very long barrel. The rifle was leaning at about a 45 degree angle so he could see to load the powder and insert the patched ball.
FOXFIRE! :thumbsup:
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:metoo:azmntman said:
excess650
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My FIRST flint rifle was a Dixie Tn Mtn Rifle back about 35 years. I had shot percussion, but flint was new to me, but it would shoot ragged hole groups at 50 yards if I benched it. I sold it a few years later, and often regretted it until about 15 years ago when I found a NIB at a gunshop. The lock is OK, but I had to fix the frizzen to pan fit with JB weld so the prime didn't run out. I'm expecting my L&R replacement lock any day, and may think about replacing the triggers(Davis they aren't :wink: ).
For those of you who haven't handled one, the locks are pretty small and take 5/8" flints. Likewise the pan is pretty small, so I generally fill 'er up with 4F. It doesn't seem to care if 3F or 2F in the barrel, 70gr seems like a good charge. I've shot .480" with .025" cotton duck, to .495" with thinner ticking with similar results. The last time out I used Lehigh Valley Lube and never needed to clean until I was finished for the day (about 30 shots).
Its a bit muzzle heavy for my liking(besides being heavy), but I shoot it well offhand. :thumbsup:
edit: my triggers are of the double phase variety
For those of you who haven't handled one, the locks are pretty small and take 5/8" flints. Likewise the pan is pretty small, so I generally fill 'er up with 4F. It doesn't seem to care if 3F or 2F in the barrel, 70gr seems like a good charge. I've shot .480" with .025" cotton duck, to .495" with thinner ticking with similar results. The last time out I used Lehigh Valley Lube and never needed to clean until I was finished for the day (about 30 shots).
Its a bit muzzle heavy for my liking(besides being heavy), but I shoot it well offhand. :thumbsup:
edit: my triggers are of the double phase variety
jbwilliams3
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That's a good rifle. My friend has been shooting his for thirty years and it's still a tack driver.
As others have said, 3f or even 2f will work just fine as a main charge and prime. The theoretically advantage one might have with 4f is negated, in my opinion, by the fact that it's one additional component to hassle with and in humid weather it is more likely to cause problems than coarser powder. I've primed with powder finer than 3f, but now I use 3f for both for the reasons mentioned above.
As others have said, 3f or even 2f will work just fine as a main charge and prime. The theoretically advantage one might have with 4f is negated, in my opinion, by the fact that it's one additional component to hassle with and in humid weather it is more likely to cause problems than coarser powder. I've primed with powder finer than 3f, but now I use 3f for both for the reasons mentioned above.
excess650
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They actually look pretty good and were a deal for the $$. The barrels were excellent! My L&R replacement lock arrived today, so I'll get it fit and decide as to whether or not change the triggers.
I think it would be better balanced if shortened, but would require taking more from the barrel and forend to keep the spacing correct than I am inclined to remove.
Keep in mind that I'm spoiled with/by Chambers locks and swamped barrels(for balance). :grin:
I think it would be better balanced if shortened, but would require taking more from the barrel and forend to keep the spacing correct than I am inclined to remove.
Keep in mind that I'm spoiled with/by Chambers locks and swamped barrels(for balance). :grin:
excess650
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Just a follow up to this thread. I've NOT replaced the original lock with the L&R replacement, nor have I shortened the barrel. The original lock isn't hard on flints and works well, so it shall remain for now. The perceived "muzzle heavy" feel seems to work in my favor for offhand work as I went 5/6, and eventually 7/10 on a 7" gong at 100 yards (yesterday). One miss was definitely affected by barrel mirage. The angle of the sun/direction of the range made visibility poor towards the end of the string.
My preference is to Goex fffg, but I've been shooting 25gr Goex fffg under 50gr Diamondback ffg. Loaded duplex, the fouling is more like Goex, and I don't clean between shots or strings at the range. Lehigh Valley Lube on .018" pillow ticking and .490 RBs are working well.
Why the duplex? I'm stretching my Goex while using the Diamondback for practice. Diamondback alone makes a noticeably stiffer fouling. 15/50 works well in my .45 flinter.
My preference is to Goex fffg, but I've been shooting 25gr Goex fffg under 50gr Diamondback ffg. Loaded duplex, the fouling is more like Goex, and I don't clean between shots or strings at the range. Lehigh Valley Lube on .018" pillow ticking and .490 RBs are working well.
Why the duplex? I'm stretching my Goex while using the Diamondback for practice. Diamondback alone makes a noticeably stiffer fouling. 15/50 works well in my .45 flinter.
