First post! Trigger help sought.

[David Dalton]

It's a pleasure to be aboard. I recently watched the Revenant and it made me think about jumping back into hunting with muzzleloaders. I broke out my old Dixie Ten Gauge Magnum double barrel and 50 cal Tennessee Mountain rifle to check them out and see about getting ship-shape and ordering whatever I've misplaced in the 25 years or so since I last shot them.

I'm getting long winded and I didn't mean to. MY question is, the double set triggers on the rifle only fire when the rear trigger is pulled to "set" the front trigger to fire with a lighter pull. If I remember correctly I should also be able to fire using solely the front trigger. If someone could tell me what to check out I would appreciate it. I forgot the terminolgy with the lock parts, but it looks to me, upon cursory examination, that the bar from the front trigger should trip the lock part to that allows the cock to fall

Thanks for having me aboard, and I look forward to particiating in the future.

 

[Zonie]

Welcome to the forum.

Yes, the bar on the top of the front trigger should push up on the sear arm that is sticking away from the inner surface of the lock when the front trigger is pulled.

That should move the sear arm upward causing the tip of the sear to disengage from the full cock notch in the tumbler.

Usually, if this isn't happening, something in the slot the trigger bar extends up thru is blocking it. Often, just removing the set triggers from the stock will allow you to look up thru the slot and see what's causing the problem.

If in doubt, rubbing a small amount of lipstick or putting a light build up of carbon from a candle flame on the bar and then installing the trigger and operating it will leave a tell-tale mark on the offending area.

Trimming back the wood with a sharp knife or razor blade will allow the trigger to operate like it should.

When you reinstall the trigger assembly, don't over tighten it.
Doing so can cause it to move upward too far and then you may end up with the rear "set" triggers bar pushing against the sear arm (when the rear trigger is left unset) and this can keep the lock from remaining at full cock.

Let us know what you find.

 

[David Dalton]

Thanks for the welcome and quick response. I will check it out after work tomorrow and report my findings.

 

[Eric Krewson]

You could have a double set single phase trigger which will only fire if the rear trigger is set. It won't fire from the front unset trigger.

 

[Rifleman1776]

You could have a double set single phase trigger which will only fire if the rear trigger is set. It won't fire from the front unset trigger.

Eric is right. The single/double trigger set-ups can make you bight yer tounge when describing them. :shocked2: Yours may be set up the way the original owner wanted them.

 

[David Dalton]

I am the original owner. It's been mañy years, but I swear I remember using the front. Anyhow I put some whiteout on the bar and it contacts the bar from the lock that touches the trigger, but will not release by the front trigger. Something is keeping it from traveling enough I guess.

 

[EC121]

Wood will shrink over time and humidity and cause things to drag and bind. You have a bind somewhere. You should be able to see the front trigger bar come up through the sear bar hole. The end of the front trigger bar could be hitting the top of the inlet.

 

[David Dalton]

I can see the tip of the bar through the hole. It has to be something simple. I appreciate the help.

 

[David Dalton]

Problem solved. I found a web page that described how to adjust the screws. It clearly stated that if the rear screw was too tight, the front trigger would not trip the sear. If it was set too light it would not stay on full cock. The front trigger pull has got to be twenty pounds though. I'll try to study how everything interacts and get things as smooth as possible while still being safe.

I knew it was something simple.