FIRST RIFLE!!

[YoungGunner]

I just finished my very first rifle build that was a 1985 CVA Hawken rifle kit and if I dont say so Myself I could not be more proud of it. I Browned the barrel and stained the stock using Birchwood casey products and She sure is a 'beaut! It came with .54 and a .50 barrels one of each and i used the 54, and now I have the extra .50 barrel which i dont know what to use for since I already have a .50. I will post pictures ASAP but probably not untill tommorow night. Does anybody knows what I could use that extra barrel?

 

[Rogue River]

Build another .50!!!!!!!!!!! One is not enough. :grin:

 

[MSW]

ayup, what RogueRiver said. you can never be too rich, too thin or have too many flintlock rifles!

 

[AZ Muzzle]

It’s addicting and thrill to build your own smoke pole. Just a warning the bug has bitten you. :thumbsup:

Mark B

 

[YoungGunner]

Upon Completing this rifle, I have several questions that would be very helpful to be answered.
1.) The stock still has that grainy wood feel to it, and what kind of finish is there that would make it "waterproof" or slick like a normally done rifle?

2.) (Im going with you guys!) Where can I obtain bits and pieces of rifle parts to use the other barrel on ANOTHER rifle?

3.) Do you always get so excited to see all your hard work in usable form??

(I might know the answer to that last one :wink:

 

[Flint311]

I'll jump in on question #3-ABSOLUTELY! It's a feeling of accomplishment and you can actually do something with it! Good job, you've been bitten by the "bug" :thumbsup:

 

[Little Wattsy]

Upon Completing this rifle, I have several questions that would be very helpful to be answered.
1.) The stock still has that grainy wood feel to it, and what kind of finish is there that would make it "waterproof" or slick like a normally done rifle?

2.) (Im going with you guys!) Where can I obtain bits and pieces of rifle parts to use the other barrel on ANOTHER rifle?

3.) Do you always get so excited to see all your hard work in usable form??

(I might know the answer to that last one :wink:

#1. You can schelack it for a glossy store bought look if you wish OR..... Make sure that you used fine enough sand paper, 400 grit, to smoooooth it out and then use a nice finishing oil, hand rubbed in, 3 or 4 coats over a period of time. Take your time and it will be just nice!

#2. You can always look for a "project gun" maybe with a a rusted barrel type of thing OR.... I REALLY am a fan of the Pecitonica Co (( http://www.longrifles-pr.com/stockscomponents.shtml ))who produces some VERY Nice curley maple stock blanks and all the parts, you can save up and buy and create a VERY Purty gun.

#3. Yah the satisfaction of your own hard work creating a useable anything is pretty hard to top. :thumbsup:

 

[Rogue River]

#1. Try Birchwood Casey TRU-OIL. Take rifle down to bare stock (remove metal parts) and put it on with just 2 fingers. I just wet my index and middle fingers with the oil and rub it on in a small area at a time. Spread it on till it won't go any further and keep rubbing till your fingers get warm and repeat until whole stock is done. Let finish dry for 24 hours and repeat 4 or 5 times until you are satisfied with the finish. If it is too shiney for you you can rub it back w/OOOO steel wool to remove the sheen. After that I let the stock dry for a week or so and apply a couple coats of furniture Paste wax (MINWAX) and you are done! :thumbsup:

 

[tg]

If it is a Walnut stock the pours/grain may not have been filled during the finishing process, at this point try Rougue Rivers plan to see if it will smooth things out, many originals were likely this way when finished as we tend to over finish guns now compared to then.

 

[Zonie]

As mentioned, Tru-Oil from Birchwood Casey is available at most gun stores or at on line places like Dixie Gunworks and Track of the Wolf.

It is a linseed oil finish with driers added so it will dry in 6-8 hours instead of 6-8 days.

Tung oil, Danish oil and other similar products will also do a good job of providing a hard waterproof finish that will look every bit as good as a factory finish.
The thing to remember is you must apply these products very thinly and let them dry between coats.

One of the biggest mistakes made by some is they want to have their gun instantly so they slop on the oils with a brush just about as thick as they can. I've seen some stocks with "runs" in them! :shocked2:

Your CVA kit probably is made from a close grained wood that doesn't require filling any "open grains" like walnut does so just remember to apply a little oil to a small area and rub it in well before moving on to the next small area.

Let it dry to the touch and then repeat this at least 3 times.

 

[ebiggs1]

I am going to recommend my favorite and maybe the easiest finish which is Minwax Tung oil. It is available everywhere. I would make sure the stock is sanded but not over sanded. 220 grit is certainly enough. I also use 0000 steel wool to burnish the stock between each coat. Lightly.
You may apply as many coats, or few, as you wish until you get the look you want.