First time firing Flint Lock

[YJake]

The touch hole location isn’t ideal as stated. I had a Pedersoli kit similar to that but was able to set the barrel back in the stock to line things up. If you’re wanting to fix it, I would get a new touch hole liner and drill the hole where you want it.

For practicing trigger pull and follow through with a flintlock rifle/pistol, I cut a piece of whiskey bottle cork the same dimensions as the flint. It’ll last almost forever and is easy on the lock.

Here’s the cut cork in the jaws of my .54 Kentucky pistol.

-Jake

 

[hanshi]

There's a learning curve with flint locks that is a bit steeper than the curve with percussion. But you are now "hooked" and there's no cure. Best of luck on your journey.

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

Another tip, leave a very little space from the touch hole, don't fill the pan right up to it.

 

[Ranger94]

Bassdog1 - glad you are happy with her. And putting her to great use! If I still had it, it would be sitting for another 15-20 years!

 

[Ricochet]

Heck, with groups like that I would say we need to be asking you for advice!! Good shootin'. They sure are fun to shoot and hunt with thats for sure.

 

[Old Timer 48]

Flintlocks are addicting, fun & effective!

 

[11th corps]

Welcome to the addition.
When I got my first flintlock there was no internet and no one to give me advice.

I filled the pan to the brim, thinking more powder was better.
What i got was a LONG, LONG, hangfire which killed any chance of accuracy. I sold it for a song, which was a mistake.

I've since learned a smaller amount of priming powder gets better results.

Good luck, keep your powder dry.

Yes, the ignition should be instantaneous. If not either you are loading the pan incorrectly, you need to sharpen your flint or your lock may need tuning.

 

[fillwa]

I also found a wealth of information in the book Flintlocks: A Practical Guide for their Use and Application. Practice, get acquainted with your gun, experiment, learn, and most importantly have fun. I love participating in Woods Walk shoots, the shooters are also a great resource.

 

[Eterry]

Yes, the ignition should be instantaneous. If not either you are loading the pan incorrectly, you need to sharpen your flint or your lock may need tuning.

I was 16 and had never seen a flintlock except on tv. I went so far as to research in an encyclopedia, but to no avail.

My point was if you fill the pan full, which in my teenage youth i mistakenly thought was the idea, then you will get a serious hangfire.

Back then I didn't know the use of a priming prick. My L/H Early Lancaster is practically instantaneous if you prick the touch hole after loading.

It also doesn't hurt i had my lock tuned by one of the best in the business.

 

[Bassdog1]

Been working on the little gun and have made it quite a bit quicker. Polished the frizzen smooth, opened touch hole to 5/64ths tweaked the frizzen spring a little so it opens up every shot and started putting flint in differently so that it strikes about a third of the way from the top of the frizzen and sits just off of the frizzen at half ****. now need to get some 4F or Null B to prime and she should be ready for tree rats. Picked all of the tips up on this site by researching old posts. What an awesome resource.

 

[Bassdog1]

Made a trip to Deer Creek products and picked up a couple bottles of Swiss Null B and got a new factory frizzen for this gun. Frizzen was easy to replace not sure if this will help but it was a cheap part to replace so why not. Asked about some #11 primers and the gentleman told me they do not expect any more for a few months according to their distributor. Stopped by Dunhams sporting goods on the way home and they had a few CCIs and a few Remingtons so I bought a few. Cant wait for an opportunity to shoot her again and see if these things help any.

 

[hanshi]

Made a trip to Deer Creek products and picked up a couple bottles of Swiss Null B and got a new factory frizzen for this gun. Frizzen was easy to replace not sure if this will help but it was a cheap part to replace so why not. Asked about some #11 primers and the gentleman told me they do not expect any more for a few months according to their distributor. Stopped by Dunhams sporting goods on the way home and they had a few CCIs and a few Remingtons so I bought a few. Cant wait for an opportunity to shoot her again and see if these things help any.

Just curious, but why did you replace the original frizzen if it was working well to start with? A spare is always a good idea, though.

 

[Bassdog1]

It was working but had some pretty deep gouges. The gun has a noticeable hangfire so I am trying to eliminate any possible factor and thought a new frizzen may spark better. New to flint and I get a little carried away sometimes (Bought 10 Cherokees and Senecas in a couple of years when I decided to start with small bores). I will post a pic of the one I took off later and see what folks think. Also want to post a short video of me firing the gun and get opinions on if folks on here think its firing slow. Regardless I am obsessed with this gun.

 

[SDSmlf]

May want to look at getting a couple of extra vent liners. Will give you the option to try different touch hole sizes and shapes. If spark is good and powder in pan is igniting, touch hole and path from the pan to main powder powder charge is next on my list of things to check. I like a short liner with a healthy chamfer on the powder side. I seem to get quickest and most reliable ignition with a touch hole diameter between .062” and .078”. Going to any larger diameter, at least in my experience in my guns, didn’t improve things. Just my opinion.

 

[Bassdog1]

Been looking at that but cant find anything other than factory liner for this gun and the hole on this one lines up towards the front of the pan but I will keep searching.

 

[SDSmlf]

Been looking at that but cant find anything other than factory liner for this gun and the hole on this one lines up towards the front of the pan but I will keep searching.

Have you looked at the RMC liners that are installed with a hex tool? Some folks love them, others hate them. That hex hole may help funnel the pan flash to your main charge with your gun’s forward liner position. I’ve had good luck with them in a number of guns. RMC Flintlock Touch Hole Liner Replacements – RMC Ox-Yoke Muzzleloader Supplies

 

[Bassdog1]

Thanks for the tip SDSmlf got one ordered

 

[Zonie]

There's another thread about a RPL lock installed on a gun with one of those hex vent liners.
The frizzen cover doesn't cover the hex hole, leaving it open when the frizzen cover is closed.

Not a good idea in my mind.

Here's a link to that thread: Look a few posts above where this link takes you.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/tc-vs-l-r-rpl-lock.111339/#post-1736843

 

[Bassdog1]

Thanks Zonie shouldnt be an issue on this gun Ill post a pic when installed

 

[SDSmlf]

There's another thread about a RPL lock installed on a gun with one of those hex vent liners.
The frizzen cover doesn't cover the hex hole, leaving it open when the frizzen cover is closed.

Not a good idea in my mind.

Here's a link to that thread: Look a few posts above where this link takes you.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/tc-vs-l-r-rpl-lock.111339/#post-1736843

Agree that one does not want the hex opening above the frizzen, but OP was concerned about touch hole being too far forward. Might be a rob Paul to pay Peter scenario, but won’t know answer until it is tried and confirmed. The hex type vent liners I have had success with were all relatively low in the pan.