First time percussion owner. Question on preserving barrel

[Tankerchief]

Took the leap this week and bought a used TC .50 cal Hawkin. The gun is in pretty good shape. Finish is worn off a spot on the barrel and a spot of rust on the trigger assembly (pictures to follow when I get a few minutes). One area I have a question on is the barrel. When I bought the gun I placed a patch on my finger and pushed it into the barrel and it came back clean. Today, I did the same and the patch came back with with something on it. I can't tell if it's oil residue (there's a lot of oil on the nipple) or rust. I don't have a nipple wrench yet so I'm not sure if it's good to try and clean it.

Looking for recommendations on what to do with the barrel to make sure rust doesn't start or get rid of the rust that is in there; until I can get a nipple wrench and do a thorough cleaning.

Thanks!

-Mike

 

[deermanok]

You can run some patches down the barrel. Don't have to worry about not having a nipple wrench for that.
Do you have a cleaning jag and cleaning rod?

 

[maillemaker]

I have cleaned my guns what I thought was rather meticulously (patch came out clean after scrubbing in utility sink) and then a day later run a patch down and it comes out discolored. I suspect that the oil may be allowing leading or other contaminates to break free after soaking for a day or so.

 

[Tankerchief]

Yes, I have an inline so I have all the cleaning equipment. Should I put anything in the barrel? I have some bore butter if that would work.

Thanks.

 

[bubba.50]

Some oils darken after a bit. Rem-oil is bad for turning brown. Whether you use bore butter to lube your bullets or for any other use, DO NOT coat your bore with it after cleaning. It makes a nasty mess & can actually trap moisture behind it. Not to even mention what can happen if you push it into the 'combustion chamber' as TC calls it.

 

[Tankerchief]

Well, I ran a patch down the barrel and it came back orange with rust. Guess I should have expected this from used gun sitting on the rack in a gun shop. Ran about 8 patches down the barrel until they came back clean. Soaked a patch in CLP and ran back and forth; then a few dry patches to clean up excess oil. I'll repeat process tomorrow. First time I've ever dealt with rust inside the barrel so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Walkingeagle]

Ok. First a couple questions;
~Did you feel any pitting, or roughness in the bore when you ran your patch?
~How did you ascertain it was rust and not dust, or oxidized oil?
Based on your answers we can help you further.
My thoughts are the bore was smooth and you are picking up dust with the residual oil in the bore. Nothing to worry over.
Walk

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

For my TC barrels, after scrubbing with hot water and soap, I run a couple of patches down the bore to dry it out. Then I squirt a bit of WD-40 in the bore and on a patch. Swab out the bore again. You can see the excess lube spraying out of the nipple. Dry patch and finally a light coating of a good oil in the bore. Light coat of oil on the outside of the barrel too. Store the barrel muzzle down for a day or so to let any excess stuff run out, Dry patch and if everything looks good, store It. Run a patch down the tube before shooting, pop a cap before loading. Never a problem.

 

[Tankerchief]

Ok. First a couple questions;
~Did you feel any pitting, or roughness in the bore when you ran your patch?
~How did you ascertain it was rust and not dust, or oxidized oil?
Based on your answers we can help you further.
My thoughts are the bore was smooth and you are picking up dust with the residual oil in the bore. Nothing to worry over.
Walk

Patches slide smooth. Possibly dust and oil; but looked like rust. There was a lot of dust when I shined a light down the barrel so maybe dust. Also, upon close inspection found minor surface rust around hammer and nipple. Also wiped down with CLP.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[SDSmlf]

Yes, I have an inline so I have all the cleaning equipment. Should I put anything in the barrel? I have some bore butter if that would work.

Thanks.

No Bore Butter for a bore protector in my guns, though others may disagree. Have found plenty of better products to pick from. You can oil the bore after cleaning with your favorite oil, but suggest you store the gun bore down for a few days if you do to make sure none accumulates in the breech area. I prefer a rust preventative that provides a dry coating like Eezox (my current favorite) or Barricade. While many may disagree, if you have nothing else, for the short term (30 days or less), I have found regular WD40 works, though I aways make sure to store my guns muzzle down for a few days after applying.

 

[Walkingeagle]

Patches slide smooth. Possibly dust and oil; but looked like rust. There was a lot of dust when I shined a light down the barrel so maybe dust. Also, upon close inspection found minor surface rust around hammer and nipple. Also wiped down with CLP.

Thanks for the advice.

External rust around nipple area can be cleaned up with fine steel wool, and future prevention is done with water and a toothbrush while cleaning after shooting. Same with the lock and hammer cup. Apply a light coating of oil once dry after cleaning, and wipe off all excess. Also ensure you wipe any excess oils from the bore with clean patches. This prevents an accumulation of dust. Store muzzle down so oils don’t build up in the breech area and snap a couple caps prior to loading to ensure clear flash channel.
Walk

 

[Bad Karma]

Patches slide smooth. Possibly dust and oil; but looked like rust. There was a lot of dust when I shined a light down the barrel so maybe dust. Also, upon close inspection found minor surface rust around hammer and nipple. Also wiped down with CLP.

Thanks for the advice.

CLP is fine for this. For years it was all I used. I have a bunch of Eezox and frog lube which is what I use most of the time now.

 

[BlackRock52]

No Bore Butter for a bore protector in my guns, though others may disagree. Have found plenty of better products to pick from. You can oil the bore after cleaning with your favorite oil, but suggest you store the gun bore down for a few days if you do to make sure none accumulates in the breech area. I prefer a rust preventative that provides a dry coating like Eezox (my current favorite) or Barricade. While many may disagree, if you have nothing else, for the short term (30 days or less), I have found regular WD40 works, though I aways make sure to store my guns muzzle down for a few days after applying.

I also tho WD 40 has several types. I use WD 40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor. Its' a long lasting rust preventative -- supposedly invented/designed by NASA for use on their rockets to prevent rust

 

[1971fx]

The old rule

 

[LST-1185]

I use Barricade in the bore and Ballistol for the rest of the firearm. I heard frog lube is also good although I haven't tried it myself.

 

[hanshi]

I've used Barricade and CLP and been sticking with Barricade even though the BreakFree CLP does just as well. I stopped using oil in the bore a long time ago because you have to wipe it out before firing. With Barricade and CLP you don't have to wipe the bore prior to shooting, but you can if it's just what you like to do.

 

[Kansas Jake]

For years I used 3in1 oil in my TC barrel after cleaning with good rust prevention including extended storage. I now use Barricade.

BTW, I’ve used a 1/4” open end wrench to remove TC Hawken nipples if they haven’t been cranked down super tight or are rusted in place. Just be careful and don’t round off the nipple sides. Nipples only have to be tightened snug anyway. Putting them on super tight just stresses the threads.