Flame-bluing Kibler barrel?

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After the last experimental process, thinking I'd deblue the test barrel again and try a different method on it, and using my usual debluing process of heated distilled white vinegar, which works excellently well with factory bluing, I found the test item this time to be resistant to debluing by this method, and after carding and oiling I was surprised to find my item had aquired a finish that best of any attempts yet represents closest to what's in my mind for my Kibler barrel and iron furniture (and realizing photos don't do justice for comparison's sake due to different time of day natural light and ambient room light affecting them) here it is - a dark gray color. Not black and not brown. I'm thinking kind of what a well-cared-for "in-the-white" item might look like after a hundred years or so (and I have a few of those as "unmentionables" so I think I know the look):
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But .... still a major question .... is there still enough iron oxide bonded to that barrel surface to inhibit corrosion? I suppose I could just hang the thing up in the bathroom for a few months to see if it rusts, but I haven't got that kind of time. So.....anybody that knows more about this than I do, PLEASE COMMENT!! Thank you.
 
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Fire bluing will produce some unique looks on gun parts. unless you are steady and get the heat traveling the length of the part evenly you can and will end up with the lower spectrum of colors.
I have produced steel trigger guards and nose caps/butt plates with the looks of color casing. blues yellows and greens.
the challenge presented by the rifle barrel is the length compounded by the radius compounded by the void of the bore.
A fowler/smoothbore might be less challenging to heat evenly but I would worry about warpage.
But, then again, I worry about warping a barrel soldering tabs and sights on them.
I think personally i would experiment with various grades of polish topped by browning or liquid bluing.
let us know Wise, what you discover. I do love fire bluing on the small parts. just wish it was more protective. it is a thin layer.
 
While fire bluing definitely works well to give beautiful color to small parts, I've never seen it used for barrels. Could be something wonderful, or it could ruin it

Fire bluing a barrel is best done with a nitriding salt bath, not with a torch.

You need a large tank with a controlled heating element up to 500-600 degrees and appropriate nitriding salts and sodium hydrochloride.

This is something that an expert gunsmith should do, some barrel makers offer the service.
 
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