Flint leather or lead

[Cpl. Ashencheeks]

I just received a Chambers Deluxe Large Siler lock from TOW for a long rifle project I will be working on.

In the care and instruction sheet it is emphasized that one should not use lead on a sporting lock and should be used only for large musket locks.

I think it has something to do with the tuned weight and speed of the **** flight upon the frizzen and that this timing could be thrown off as well as potentially permanently damage the ****.

So the recommendation was leather for sporting locks, and lead for larger musket locks.

 

[Howard Pippin]

I thoroughly enjoyed the discussion on lead or leather For holding the Flint. A couple of years ago I run across the idea of using lead, so I poured some flat lead Quite thin, and tried it. It worked fine I thought, neither good nor bad. Anyway this discussion made me more curious so I thought I should see how much weight it was adding to my hammer, as that idea had never crossed my mind. Among my knapped flints, one weighed 3.84 grains and the lightest weighed 3.25. The cut flints weighed 2.70 grains. The light leather I use weighed .56 grains, the heavy ones weigh 1.36. My lead replacement for the leather weighed 3.26 grains. I don't know how much a round ball hammered down would weigh, you would have to trim it anyway.
If I used a heavy flint with the thick leather, it would weigh 5.20 grains. The light flint with the lead would weigh 6.51 grains. Apparently it depends how you set up your flint and how big it is, has about as much bearing on the total weight as using heavy leather and lead. If I used the lightest flint, which is the cut one, along with the lightest leather I use, it would only weigh half as much as the heavy one, being 3.24 grains. I wonder if the addition of 3.27 additional grains would have much effect. Has anyone else ever experimented upon the weight that they add to their hammers? I am using leather right now, and it is the light leather but I've never noticed any difference in ignition regardless of the combination.
The scale I used to check all this is a digital readout scale that can be set in grains, grams, ounces, or metric. It seems very accurate as it will weigh the small piece of paper towel that I place on it to keep round balls from running off when I weigh them. That piece of paper generally ways .02 of a grain.
Squint

 

[curator]

I use both leather and sheet lead to mount my flints. Both work fine if used correctly. Lead wrap does need to be tighter, and it helps to "dry-fire" a newly installed flint at least three times and re-tighten the top-jaw screw to prevent it from moving. I use lead wrap on my military muskets with excellent results. It does help to have a transverse hole in the top-jaw screw to get it adequately tight. It is nearly impossible to get a lead-wrapped flint correctly tightened using a screw drive slot. This is an exact copy of a lead flint wrap from a W1812 battlefield.

 

[yellowlab]

Im a little late here. But I was changing my flint the other day. I usually use leather but decided to try a lead wrap. I used a .490 rb, smashed it flat trimmed it and put it in. I "think" I can feel the extra weight when the hammer/**** swings forward, (the gun seems to jump more). I did a search on lead vs leather and found this thread. Has anyone else noticed the difference or is it all in my head?

 

[Larry Pletcher]

I did a test of lead and leather and listed the link earlier in this list. Since some are late arrivals, here is the link again: https://www.blackpowdermag.com/lead-vs-leather-flint-attachment-study/

Regards,
Pletch

 

[yellowlab]

I saw the link you posted and it has some good information. Im not trying to say I get a better or faster spark one way or the other, but it seems that when I look down the sights and "dry fire", the gun seems to move/jump more from the extra weight of the lead. Like I said this may be in my head. (lead head). Also I could maybe have trimmed more and/or flattened the lead more to reduce some weight but im sure I could have made two pieces from the one ball. sorry for the late arrival but thanks for the response.

 

[Old Timer 48]

I guess they are not in the printed catalog, but they are listed online in the flint listings. TOTW

 

[MSW]

I have one gun which seems to prefer one over the other. With the remainder, I cannot detect any difference, which doesn't mean to imply that there isn't one, just that I can't discern it if it does indeed exist.

I would urge you to take your particular gun to the range and test to see which works better in that particular set- up. Each flintlock is just a little different from the next (which is, to my mind, their allure), and only in their use and testing can you really 'tune' them and get the whole system working to it's best potential.

Free advice - and no doubt well worth the price.

 

[Cowboy]

I’ve bought several Pedersoli flintlock’s new which came with their flint’s wrapped in lead.

I personally can’t prefer one over the other. Never used a lead wrapped flint before? I’ve taken the lead wrapping off the flint’s and used them for casting ball.

I have heard that the lead wrapped flint’s work their way loose more often than leather but again, I can’t verify that?

Personally never had a problem with leather. Everyone else I shoot with uses leather as well.

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[Sparkitoff]

I have two L&R locks. I emailed this question to them. The reply was to use either, and base the decision on what appeared to create the most sparks. Specifically said the warranty is in place regardless.

 

[olskool]

I did use leather until I tried lead. I never looked back after that,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[Heelerau]

To be quite frank, I prefer leather for all my flintlocks including my mates' Brown Bess. Better grip, and some cushion effect.

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Boot tongue .

 

[Stophel]

I tried lead a few years ago. I found that the lead simply would NOT hold the flint securely, no matter what I did. And I tried everything I could think of. Thick, thin, wrapped this way, wrapped that way... It just did not work at all. I figured it might work better in a big musket lock with heavy raised teeth in the jaws, but not in anything I had. I see no reason to ever bother with lead flint wrap again, especially since leather is SO simple and easy and works with no problem.

 

[Stophel]

I make them like this now (either one piece or two), so that the leather doesn't fall away when changing flints, and you don't have to fool around with different pieces of leather for different thicknesses of flints. No fuss, no muss. Two oval shaped pieces of leather of sufficient size, with an oval slot in them so that the comb of the **** and the screw can pass through.

 

[flinter1977]

I've done both. lead works just fine but you have to keep an eye on tightness more than leather from my experience.
I only use leather now. Just my two cents.

 

[Bill Bryan]

Where do y'all purchase the leather or lead that goes around the flint in the lock jaws. I have been through the TOW catalog and can not find it anywhere?
Any help on sources will be appreciated

I've tried leather and lead and I prefer lead. Just flatten a lead ball with a hammer and trim with scissors. Tighten after a couple of shots. Good luck. Bill

 

[toot]

I don't think back in days of old that they would cut up there belt for a flint holder?? but they did have a screwed up ball when running lead and could pound it down with there hatchet to suffice!!

 

[XVIIc Wheelock]

For lead, go to the flintlock department of Home Depot, in the roofing section and buy the small roof lead chimney that goes over the bathroom or hot water heater...fits in the shingles...that is enough lead for 3 generations of flintlock users. Easily bendable and cuttable with small snips and CHEAP.

 

[Griz44Mag]

Or, just lay a ball on the flat of the vise and hammer it down. Only takes a few strokes...