Flint Lock type unknow- need help

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tspivey0534

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I have recently purchased a custom made flint lock rifle who has had it stored for over 15 years in a gun cabinet, while cleaning the lock mechanism, I notice that the sear spring appears to have a crack in the bend, I am not sure who made this lock and the previous owner is no help, can anyone help me identify this lock so I can order another sear spring.. thanks Trent http://i582.photobucket.
flintlockunkownmaker.jpg
 
Okay, let me ask if all sear springs on flintlock locks are interchangeable? Does anyone have any suggestions on who made this lock..?
 
Okay, let me ask if all sear springs on flintlock locks are interchangeable? Does anyone have any suggestions on who made this lock..?
No, all sear springs on all flintlocks are not interchangable.

For starters, I recommend that you post photos of both sides of the lock. While many look alike from the outside, the inners may look different and some more knowledgable members of the forum may be able to recognize your lock at a glance.

If you don't get any information that way, I suggest that you invest $7 in a Track of the Wolf Catalog. Yes I know you can look at TOTW's online website but the advantage of getting their printed catalog is that the full color photos are shown actual size for things like lock parts and it is a great help to be able to lay your broken spring or lock right on top of the photo to see if you have a good fit.
 
Other than mine has a rounded back end of the lock plate, that lock looks real close to mine. It is a Dixie lock from the early 80's and supposedly came from Belgium. They (Dixie Gun Works) used to have a supply of random parts to repair the various locks they sold but over time the supply has dwindled. The protocol used to be, send them the lock and they would scrounge around to find a part. Don't know if that is still the case.
 
Yes, Dixie will still scrounge around and try to find the matching part for you. If they find one though, be sure to ask them whether or not the spring has already been tempered. You may have to temper it yourself.
 
Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help, the 80's timeframe is probably right, the previous owner said they bought it from a pawn shot mid to late 80's and lost interests in shooting so they put it up in a gun cabinet until I got it from them... Thanks again.. On the dual post, I didn't see the general gun catagory until I had already posted on this one, sorry if I messed up..
 
Probably the easiest answer is to make a new one. You have the old one for a pattern, so it should be pretty simple.

MLBS offers spring stock in various thicknesses, mesure yours and order a piece (1" x 6"). It can be cut with a scissors, or tin snips, filed and cut to shape, harden and draw back per directions, and viola, you have a new sear spring.

Really quite easy with basic tools and a propane torch.
 
flintlock.jpg
[/img] here is the back of the lock...I still have the sear spring, but I'm afraid if I put it back in it will break... I ordered a Dixie Gun Work's catalog, so maybe it will help me find what I need.. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated..
 
That looks like my old Dixie Gun Works lock from 1979. If it is the same, it should have Dixie Gun Works stamped on the inside.
The internals on my lock function well and the mainspring is good.

If yours is stamped Dixie and would you are interested in a spare, send me a PM with your phone # and we can talk.

Mel
 
In a pinch you can actually make a good sear spring from steel banding like what they used to band lumber together with. Use the old one for a pattern. You can cut one out with tin snips, remembering of course to cut it wider than needed at first to allow material for the lug which will fit in the slot on the lockplate. Turn the eye around a nail or screw and start the bend around the end of a chisel or other sharp edge. This can be done cold on most banding and in some cases no other work needs to be done. But I would recommend hardening and tempering to a peacock color. If you get it too hard it will snap real quick. Most of the banding I've used had enough carbon in it to be able to temper. Some doesn't have any and can't be hardened. It will work for a while, but eventually will quit springing back and won't hold the sear against the tumbler.
 
Several suppliers, including Brownells and Dixie sell spring stock- flat spring steel of various thicknesses. You can cut out the material to form a new spring, and make it yourself. Don't expect the first 2 attempts to come out right. There is a learning curve. But, You can do it. Yes, for the most part the spring steel needs to be hardened and tempered, and this also involves some learning. The name of the lockmaker should be stamped on the backside of the lock plate. If you give that information to the suppliers, they may just have ready made replacement springs on hand. Buy extras. And while you are at it, ask about mainsprings, and frizzen springs, and extra frizzens. These are the parts of any flintlock that seem to wear, or break the most often.
 
Thank you guys so much for the information,,, I have some pallet banding at the house I may give it a try and see if I can master it.. Thanks again.. I will disassemble the lock mechanism off the lock and see if I can find a name stamp on the plate.. Thanks again...
 
Muzzleloader Builders Supply has the spring stock in 1" x 6" pieces. Only a couple of bucks a piece. The problem with using pallet banding, is you just don't know what the metal composition is. So hardening and drawing back is a crap shoot. In MLBS catalog, and on their website, complete instructions are posted.

It's really VERY easy, with basic tools.

Measure the thickness of the original, and order a piece of the same thickness. The stuff is soft and easy to work till you harden it, and draw it back.
 
I got my stock from Brownells and this book from TOTW >> BOOK-SVS Simplified V Springs, easy home tempering instructions, by Kit Ravenshear . . . $5.99 >> in their gunsmithing book section. Used my lead pot to temper the springs. Paul V. is right, one or two to mess up and then it really is easy. Brownells will sell you a spring steel package that will last for years, from which you can make darn near any v spring you can think of.

That and it is actually fun.

Mike F
 
Oh yea, forgot... need a MAPP torch and a jewlers saw too, neither expensive and useful for other projects.

Mike F
 
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