flint wrap

[bore_butter]

for those that wrap the flint with a smashed lead bullet, do you use a lead/tin mix one or would a 100% lead bullet do the job.

 

[curator]

I use lead roofing flashing which is mostly pure lead. I buy it at building supply stores and cut it with scissors. I usually have a small roll of it in my shooting box so I can cut off a piece when needed. I have "smashed" bullets when I needed a wrap and did not have a supply of my flashing. Lead tin mix is malleable and won't shatter like lead mixed with antimony.

 

[bore_butter]

thanks much. I have pure lead in a sheet also 3/8th thick and should be able to get spread to an acceptable thickness.
I am assuming it should be about 1/8in. thick.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I've used cast lead wraps, and the smashed musket ball technique. Both work fine. You not only want the lead to grip the flint, but also the jaws of the cock to grip the lead, so I always use pure lead.

You may want to be cautious as to where you use the lead. I ONLY use the lead wrap on smoothbore muskets. They have a long throw, which tends to be a bit slow, AND they are also meant to shoot several dozen rounds with very little knapping of the flint edge during a battle. A rifle or quality fowler lock (imho) should not need or be used with a lead wrapped flint. You may want to check with lock makers too, as I've heard that some American lock makers do not like to honor warranties if one has been using a lead wrap...though that is unconfirmed at this time.

LD

 

[Billnpatti]

In general, I would not use lead to wrap my flint. Personally, I do not use lead to secure the flint on any of my rifles. When using lead, it causes the flint to strike the frizzen harder than when using leather. In some of the smaller locks, this can cause problems and in many cases such problems are not covered by the warranty. My understanding is that Jim Chambers will void the warranty on their lock if you use lead to wrap your flint. I do not have any smoothbore muskets so I cannot comment on the use of lead to secure the flint in the cocks on those guns. Loyalist Dave said that it is okay to use lead to secure the flint on them. Therefore, owing to my ignorance in that specific application, I will defer to him in that instance.

 

[George]

If you do use lead wrap, it should be a lot thinner than 1/8-inch.



Spence

 

[Coot]

thanks much. I have pure lead in a sheet also 3/8th thick and should be able to get spread to an acceptable thickness.
I am assuming it should be about 1/8in. thick.

Half of that (1/16") should be plenty. 1/8" would be hard to bend, take up a lot of space in the jaws and add a lot of weight to the cock. I prefer to try to stay in period as much as I can and only use lead in large military locks. Leather works just fine in all of my smaller locks.

 

[hanshi]

Just MHO but leather is the only way to go for hunting/sporting rifles and fowlers. I tried lead wrap decades ago on a factory rifle and it didn't help at all.

 

[George]

I don't use lead to hold my flints. As I do with a lot of things, I tried it for a while because it was done in the day and I wanted to find out for myself what any advantages or disadvantages were. I didn't like it. Lead has no elasticity. If you compress/dent it, it cannot spring back. Repeated impacts from the flint striking the frizzen seemed to gradually compress the lead so it was no longer thick enough, wouldn't keep the flint tightly held, it had to periodically be tightened some more.

I've never had that problem with leather, and that's what I always use. I do not have a military gun, or any very large locks, but leather works perfectly with my sporting guns, never works loose.

Spence

 

[bore_butter]

I don't have the flintlock yet. I ordered one of those traditions trapper 50cal. flintlock pistols the other day and it'll be a few days till it arrives.
the reason I mentioned the lead wrap was due to the post I read here by someone that brought up the fact that the leather could catch fire and be smoldering while the weapon was being loaded.
i'll give leather and lead a try when I get the chance.
thanks for all the info.

 

[Claude Mathis]

... I read here by someone that brought up the fact that the leather could catch fire and be smoldering while the weapon was being loaded.

You have a much better chance of being struck by lightning, when it's not raining, on a Tuesday, between 1-2PM. :wink:

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I was taught by Mike Nesbit to use the top of the cock jaw as a template to mark the leather before cutting it. I've also found that in my locks if I either punch a hole for the jaw screw or cut a groove for the jaw screw, so that the back of the flint rests against the screw..., I get better sparks.

LD

 

[Rifleman1776]

I don't use lead to hold my flints. As I do with a lot of things, I tried it for a while because it was done in the day and I wanted to find out for myself what any advantages or disadvantages were. I didn't like it. Lead has no elasticity. If you compress/dent it, it cannot spring back. Repeated impacts from the flint striking the frizzen seemed to gradually compress the lead so it was no longer thick enough, wouldn't keep the flint tightly held, it had to periodically be tightened some more.

I've never had that problem with leather, and that's what I always use. I do not have a military gun, or any very large locks, but leather works perfectly with my sporting guns, never works loose.

Spence

Amen, Bro.
Worth rereading.
I have tried lead because in this game we are always trying new stuff. Don't like for all reasons stated. Leather only way to go, IMHO. I keep a spare strip in my shooting bag.

 

[George]

I do the same, Dave. I don't want any give when the flint strikes the frizzen.

Spence

 

[coloradoclyde]

I tried lead.....went back to leather...

Lead kept loosening up.

 

[azmntman]

I could see that, lead would tend to continue to flatten...leather not so much :hmm:

 

[Patocazador]

I don't use lead to hold my flints. As I do with a lot of things, I tried it for a while because it was done in the day and I wanted to find out for myself what any advantages or disadvantages were. I didn't like it. Lead has no elasticity. If you compress/dent it, it cannot spring back. Repeated impacts from the flint striking the frizzen seemed to gradually compress the lead so it was no longer thick enough, wouldn't keep the flint tightly held, it had to periodically be tightened some more.

I've never had that problem with leather, and that's what I always use. I do not have a military gun, or any very large locks, but leather works perfectly with my sporting guns, never works loose.

Spence

YEP! :thumbsup:

 

[bore_butter]

thanks for all the helpful advice.
fedex man brought the traditions trapper flintlock yesterday. i decided to go with the leather wrap on the flint and got out the sewing machine and made a leather frizzen cover for the safety aspect during loading. remembered i had a couple of old welding aprons i had from back in the mid 60's and now i have more than a lifetime of flint wraps.
can't fire it yet due to the lack of rain and 97deg. temps. i don't want to set the woods on fire. i did dry fire the flint in the dark last night and it produced plenty of sparks.
i've decided to shoot the 250grn. lee real bullet and 40grns of fffg, this is just going to be a paper punch for the fun of it.

 

[Silky921]

I second that. Same thing happened to me.

I wonder if the geometry of the lock and angle of the strike affect whether a lock would like leather or lead better?

 

[Grimord]

That's a pretty stout load for a pistol.