Counter sink a starter hole in the middle of the screw slot to keep the bit from wandering. Then start with a small bit and drill a hole for a guide for a larger bit. A 1/8" bit should be fine for the shaft diameter. You only have to drill about 1/16 to 1/8" deep to get to the screw shaft from the bottom of the slot. The head will pop off and then pull the lock. Or use the soldering gun heat method with the solvent. The plate bolster threads can't be more than 3/8" deep. Put some tape around the sideplate to protect the finish and go to it. Even if you mess up the screw head, a new one is only $1.50. It will cost almost $50 to mail the rifle back plus after this amount of time they will likely charge return shipping. Besides it is only a TVM rifle.
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Flintlock Disassembley Help
- Thread starter fischereco2
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hoochiepapa
75 Cal.
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I'm not sure why anyone is considering drilling out the head of the stuck screw.
How about concentrating on just unscrewing it. If the head gets frinkled up in the process, then, consider drilling it out.
Right now, my concentration on the situation if it were my gun would be on just removing the screw.
If I twisted off the screw head in the process, I wouldn't have to worry about how to drill it out.
If I didn't frinkle up the head, I would remove the existing blue Loc-Tite and be done with it.
If I did frinkle up the screw head, replacement screws are available from places like Track of the Wolf for not a lot of money.
To remove the screw, a large screw driver that exactly fits the screw slot is needed.
Also, a pair of locking pliers like Vise-Grips.
Another person would be valuable too.
With one person holding the screwdriver exactly in line with the screw and applying as much force as possible (read at least 75 pounds) down on the screw driver, the other person would clamp the Vise-Grips on the shank of the screw driver and turn int in the "lefty loosie" direction.
Even with blue Loc-Tite on the threads, the screw should come loose.
How about concentrating on just unscrewing it. If the head gets frinkled up in the process, then, consider drilling it out.
Right now, my concentration on the situation if it were my gun would be on just removing the screw.
If I twisted off the screw head in the process, I wouldn't have to worry about how to drill it out.
If I didn't frinkle up the head, I would remove the existing blue Loc-Tite and be done with it.
If I did frinkle up the screw head, replacement screws are available from places like Track of the Wolf for not a lot of money.
To remove the screw, a large screw driver that exactly fits the screw slot is needed.
Also, a pair of locking pliers like Vise-Grips.
Another person would be valuable too.
With one person holding the screwdriver exactly in line with the screw and applying as much force as possible (read at least 75 pounds) down on the screw driver, the other person would clamp the Vise-Grips on the shank of the screw driver and turn int in the "lefty loosie" direction.
Even with blue Loc-Tite on the threads, the screw should come loose.
I'm with Zonie on this.
A trick an old smith showed me, is if you have a drill press or access to one. Chuck your well fitting hollow ground screw driver bit into the chuck.
Then have a helper hold the rifle while you lower the chuck into the screw head and turn the chuck by hand while holding downward pressure with the press handle.
Using this method I have been able to remove screws that were frozen for decades without damaging the screw head.
A trick an old smith showed me, is if you have a drill press or access to one. Chuck your well fitting hollow ground screw driver bit into the chuck.
Then have a helper hold the rifle while you lower the chuck into the screw head and turn the chuck by hand while holding downward pressure with the press handle.
Using this method I have been able to remove screws that were frozen for decades without damaging the screw head.
fischereco2
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I finally got the blasted screw out. Penetrating oil left gor a few days combined with the screwdriver/hammer tap method did the trick. Now that I've got all the screws out I'm wondering if the blue stuff isn't some kind of grease? It was dry and crusty on one screw but very smeary and, well, grease-like on the other. Hmmmm...
My guess is that moisture just caused the screw to sieze up a little or something. Does anyone know if TVM pins their barrels in place? I removed the tang screw and have tried moving it in various ways but I honestly don't know how a ML barrel is supposed to come out. Thanks again all, I really appreciate the help.
My guess is that moisture just caused the screw to sieze up a little or something. Does anyone know if TVM pins their barrels in place? I removed the tang screw and have tried moving it in various ways but I honestly don't know how a ML barrel is supposed to come out. Thanks again all, I really appreciate the help.
54ball
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Most Longrifle barrels are pinned. You can remove them with a pin pinch...can buy or be homemade....but you stand the risk of damaging the stock.
I clean a pinned rifle with the barrel in place.
For a pinned longrifle I remove the lock, plug the vent with a tooth pick, pour some hot soapy water down the bore, soak, pour off and replace water until it runs clear, then I use cleaning patches on jag until they pull clean, then oil and replace lock.
For a quick clean...sometimes I'll leave the lock on.
I clean a pinned rifle with the barrel in place.
For a pinned longrifle I remove the lock, plug the vent with a tooth pick, pour some hot soapy water down the bore, soak, pour off and replace water until it runs clear, then I use cleaning patches on jag until they pull clean, then oil and replace lock.
For a quick clean...sometimes I'll leave the lock on.
Don Steele
45 Cal.
CONGRATULATIONS....on getting the blasted screw out..!! :hatsoff:
Perhaps I missed something in the thread, so I'll ask here:
Why are you wanting to remove the barrel..???
That's RARELY considered necessary, or...for that matter...even a good idea when dealing with pinned longrifle barrels.
Is something else going on..???
Perhaps I missed something in the thread, so I'll ask here:
Why are you wanting to remove the barrel..???
That's RARELY considered necessary, or...for that matter...even a good idea when dealing with pinned longrifle barrels.
Is something else going on..???
Your rifle barrel is most likely pinned to the stock. You should see the end of the pins on the stock. The pins holding the barrel are not the pins above the ram rod ferrules.
There is not real reason to removed a pinned barrel from the stock for cleaning. Don't tell us that you are now starting to clean your barrel. The barrel can be cleaned in the stock. Plug the touch hole with a tooth pick. Fill the barrel with warm from the tap water. I like to use a few drops of dish washing detergent to help with removing the oils left in the barrel from the patch lubrication. Water alone will dissolve the black powder solvents. Dump the water out and do it a couple of times. Now you can run a wet patch to remove the remaining fouling. After several wet patches, you use dry patches. I like to use either WD40 or rubbing alcohol to remove the last traces of water. Finally use a good rust inhibiting lubricant such as Birchwood Casey's Barricade to protect the bore and the lock surfaces. After a couple of days, run an oiled patch down the bore. This removes the remaining fouling that the lubricant loosens and preserves your bore from rusting.
Obviously take care that you wipe off any cleaning solution (water with a small amount of dish soap) from the stock and you will have no problems with leaving the stock and barrel attached.
Good job on getting the bolt removed from the lock.
There is not real reason to removed a pinned barrel from the stock for cleaning. Don't tell us that you are now starting to clean your barrel. The barrel can be cleaned in the stock. Plug the touch hole with a tooth pick. Fill the barrel with warm from the tap water. I like to use a few drops of dish washing detergent to help with removing the oils left in the barrel from the patch lubrication. Water alone will dissolve the black powder solvents. Dump the water out and do it a couple of times. Now you can run a wet patch to remove the remaining fouling. After several wet patches, you use dry patches. I like to use either WD40 or rubbing alcohol to remove the last traces of water. Finally use a good rust inhibiting lubricant such as Birchwood Casey's Barricade to protect the bore and the lock surfaces. After a couple of days, run an oiled patch down the bore. This removes the remaining fouling that the lubricant loosens and preserves your bore from rusting.
Obviously take care that you wipe off any cleaning solution (water with a small amount of dish soap) from the stock and you will have no problems with leaving the stock and barrel attached.
Good job on getting the bolt removed from the lock.
I put a folded paper towel up against the toothpick and hold it in place with a spring clamp. The paper towel catches any water leakage from around the toothpick.
frogwalking
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http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/578/1/FLUSH-FLINT
TOW flintlock cleaning rig. I always used this on a flintlock with a pinned barrel. I file a small amount off the end so it will fit better. Buy one and you will quickly see what I mean. It just takes a minute.
OH YEA, Congratulations on getting the screw out without boogering anything up.
TOW flintlock cleaning rig. I always used this on a flintlock with a pinned barrel. I file a small amount off the end so it will fit better. Buy one and you will quickly see what I mean. It just takes a minute.
OH YEA, Congratulations on getting the screw out without boogering anything up.
Last edited by a moderator:
Don Steele
45 Cal.
I've had better luck with a similar product from Dunlap Woodcrafts.
[email protected]
Get hold of Daniel over there for one of their flush units...correctly applied, NO leakage. :thumbsup:
[email protected]
Get hold of Daniel over there for one of their flush units...correctly applied, NO leakage. :thumbsup:
fischereco2
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Don't worry, I cleaned the barrel immediately after I fired the gun. It seemed like removing it completely would make that process easier and I wouldn't have to worry about getting water/solvents on my stock, but I'll take everyone's advice and just leave it be. I'll try the toothpick trick and hopefully that'll solve my leakage problem.
hoochiepapa
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Like I said-some sort of anti-seize like PERMATEX!
Ya gotta be smarter than your average bear or engineer wanna-be. :rotf:
Ya gotta be smarter than your average bear or engineer wanna-be. :rotf:
hoochiepapa
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:blah:
