I have a flintlock GPR and replaced the original lock with a L&R lock. The original lock fired reliably; the L&R lock fired reliably until last week. There would be a flash in the pan. I'd pick the touch hole, re-prime and shoot. The touch hole is in correct orientation to the pan. What I did to correct the problem is to tilt the rifle to the left and poke some priming powder into the touch hole. Fired after that. My loading procedure is load, fire, pick the touch hole, load again and pick the touch hole. I'm meticulous in cleaning my rifles and pistols and I don't understand why I have a problem. I'm going to replace the touch hole liner and see what happens. Any idea why the failure to ignite? Thanks.
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Flintlock GPR failure to fire.
- Thread starter Katy10312011
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64Springer
75 Cal.
How much wet nasty real black powder fouling are you shoving into your chamber between shots?
Try leaving your pick in place while you load. After tamping your PRB down, pull it. After filling flash pan, tap on the opposite side. This should get your 3 or 4F to trickle to your charge. Leaving pick in while loading should leave you a channel to your charge. I’d also recommend getting an endoscope to look at the breech end after cleaning. The previous comment has some merit, no need to heap on the sarcasm.
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None. At this time in my part of Texas there isn't any fouling in the pan because the humidity is low. When the humidity is high, yes, there's nasty fouling in the pan. In that case I use a patch and wipe the pan.
64Springer
75 Cal.
Was referring to shoving fouling from the muzzle to the chamber.
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Chambered breech. Can be a PITA. Make sure your powder charge is making it into the breech. Smack it a few times after you dump charge then seat the ball.
Most GPR’s touch hole needs enlarged too fire consistently..
I punched out the touch hole in mine to 1/16" and still use the original lock.
Works fine...
Works fine...
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If it fired reliability for a while - then stopped - I’m thinking you need to scrape the breach face and clean the chamber area well.
The OP never said that he cleaned between shots... which is the only way I know of to get "wet nasty" black powder fowling into the breach where it might cause an ignition issue.
Drill out the flash hole like BPMS said or get one of these
https://rmcoxyoke.com/product/rmc-flintlock-touch-hole-liner-replacements/
I have a GPR with the exact same set up as you do. L&R lock. mine goes off all the time. I use Mr Flintlocks lube I dont clean between shots and I have no issues. I also use that RMC liner
https://rmcoxyoke.com/product/rmc-flintlock-touch-hole-liner-replacements/
I have a GPR with the exact same set up as you do. L&R lock. mine goes off all the time. I use Mr Flintlocks lube I dont clean between shots and I have no issues. I also use that RMC liner
Going to buy the RMC liner and report back. Thanks to all for your information.
woodsnwater
40 Cal
If you don't clean that chambered breech with a smaller jag or brush, it'll gum up and cause your problem.
Greenjoytj
54 Cal.
On my Lyman GPR I’m not sure what diameter the patent breach is.
With the RMC touch hole liner out, I twist a 36 caliber bronze brush in that reduced diameter channel sometimes I’ll spin the brush on the rod with a cordless drill.
One of the things I discovered causing failure to spark was forgetting to wipe flash pan smoke residue off the frizzen. Keeping the frizzen clean always make the pan flash.
With the RMC touch hole liner out, I twist a 36 caliber bronze brush in that reduced diameter channel sometimes I’ll spin the brush on the rod with a cordless drill.
One of the things I discovered causing failure to spark was forgetting to wipe flash pan smoke residue off the frizzen. Keeping the frizzen clean always make the pan flash.
hanshi
Cannon
Chambered, or patent, breeches never caused any issue in the few firearms of that type I've owned. Still I consider them a defective solution to a non-existent problem. As has been mentioned they're too easily blocked by fouling and can fail at the worst moment.
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Believe Hanshi touched on your problem.
I have converted a couple TC's from caplock to flint. While I have the breech block out, I drill that "CUSTOM" factory breech chamber out to a reasonable diameter. Both became excellent shooters and very fast.
Think your problem is that dang factory custom breech bolster. I would remove it and drill it out to a nice polished hole instead of the inside out ice cream cone affair that they use.
I have converted a couple TC's from caplock to flint. While I have the breech block out, I drill that "CUSTOM" factory breech chamber out to a reasonable diameter. Both became excellent shooters and very fast.
Think your problem is that dang factory custom breech bolster. I would remove it and drill it out to a nice polished hole instead of the inside out ice cream cone affair that they use.
RMC liner worked. I am also going to clean-up the chamber breech more thoroughly. Thanks to all for the input.
Psycho Mike
Free Cdn
Sometimes I find that subtle changes can have much larger impacts. If the pan is in a slightly different location vs. the stock lock, then perhaps the stock hole liner wasn't quite up to the task. I'm glad that changing it seems to have you sorted out.
