Flintlock Powder?

[Uncle Mike]

Hi,Am I correct that Black Powder substitutes are not recommended in a Flintlock.I'm having trouble finding real stuff SE Wisconsin or NE Illinois.Regards,Mike

 

[roundball]

Hi,Am I correct that Black Powder substitutes are not recommended in a Flintlock.I'm having trouble finding real stuff SE Wisconsin or NE Illinois.Regards,Mike

Correct...ignition is poor to non-existent with BP subs...their ignition temperature is too high for the tiny heat source of the pan[url] flash...in[/url] fact #11 caps sometimes don't light them off.

Something like Goex is the real deal...if a case from a Goex Distributor is too much at once (25lbs for lowest case price) you can order it from Graf & Sons, MO or PowderInc which only have a 4 or 5 pound minimum.

I settled on Goex 3F for main charges and Goex 4F for prime as the best combo in all calibers of my flintlocks for several years now...Goex is fast, clean, and accurate...always 100% reliable.

 

[flashpanner]

The real BP will make your m/l happy. I use same powder for main charge and pan prime. I don't see much difference in 4F for prime. Saves the trouble of having two types of powder on hand. I still have 4F kicking around, I think it regenerates itself! If you want some finer power to try for priming, some guys sift their 3F for some finer grains. You coudl try it and see how it appeals to you rather than buying a pound of 4F.

 

[Stony]

You can find real Goex powder at G.A.T. Guns in Dundee just off the 90 tollway towards Rockford. Their phone number is 847-428-4867. Call first to make sure they have what you want in stock.

Also, come on out to the Conservation Club of Kenosha County in Bristol WI (www.bristolranges.com/) We have a laid back black powder range where you can ask all kinds of questions, you might even learn something :thumbsup:

 

[roundball]

I use same powder for main charge and pan prime. I don't see much difference in 4F for prime. Saves the trouble of having two types of powder on hand.

:grin: :grin:
Flashpanner, I always get a kick out of seeing posts where people try to discourage others from using 4F priming powder on the basis of "saves the trouble having two types of powder on hand"...and I'm going to make a general comment, not aimed at you personally, its simply a case that your's was the most recent post I've seen talking about this very subject.
==============================================
I must have 20 different types of powders on hand on the shelving unit in my garage where all my reloading equipment is...have accumulated it over 25-30 years...several powders for many different shotgun gauges and purposes, several different powders for many rifle calibers, many handgun calibers, and Goex 4F, 3F, and 2F for muzzleloading.

They are all in different size and shape cans, made by different manufacturers, have different brand names on them, different color cans, and different powder names on the cans.

I have never in 25-30 years had a single instance of a problem using a variety of different powders for different things year round by having 20 plus different powders on hand.

In the specific case of Goex 4F, the can of 4F is clearly labeled with four letter "F"s: FFFFg
Also, the very fine almost powder like granulation of 4F is immediately obvious to the eye that it's not 3F or 2F. 4F is made and sold as priming powder, and it works perfectly as intended.

If anybody wants to list a dozen reasons why they don't personally chose to use an actual priming powder thats fine...but they should not try to convince others they should not use 4F as a priming powder on the basis that "its too much trouble having two different powders on hand".

:grin: :grin:

 

[paulvallandigham]

I have to agree with Roundball here. Anyone who has trouble mixing up his powders is too irresponsible to be allowed on any range where I shoot. Sorry to be a bit of a Old F*$t about this, but I don't have any respect for people who knowingly endanger their lives, and the lives of other good people. As far as I am concerned, there is NO better Class of people than you will me at most ranges. :thumbsup:

 

[Rancocas]

It's not a matter of mixing up two different powders. The point is why carry one powderhorn/flask for the main charge and then have to also carry around a priming horn? Why carry two powder containers?
Do what you like. Myself, I try to keep things as simple as possible by only carrying one horn.

 

[Dphar]

Hi,Am I correct that Black Powder substitutes are not recommended in a Flintlock.I'm having trouble finding real stuff SE Wisconsin or NE Illinois.Regards,Mike

Champion Shooting Supplies
N5512CTH "Z"
Onalaska, WI 54650
608-781-5073, Fax: 608-781-5076

Is listed a master distributor. They can tell you who deals in powder in your area I would think. You can likely buy powder direct from them if they don't have a minimum.

Dan

 

[Hunter66]

It's not a matter of mixing up two different powders. The point is why carry one powderhorn/flask for the main charge and then have to also carry around a priming horn? Why carry two powder containers?
Do what you like. Myself, I try to keep things as simple as possible by only carrying one horn.

I've been doing this for 27 years and never saw a problem with being able to carry 2 powders. My priming horn fits in my pocket just like I designed it to and the other fits in my possibles without a problem. I have to agree with Roundball I keep 3 kinds of Goex on hand without any hassles. I personally prefer 4f for priming I think it flashes faster for better offhand shooting and I know others will disagree but I know what my targets look like having tried 2f and 3f for a prime.

 

[roundball]

The point is why carry one powderhorn/flask for the main charge and then have to also carry
around a priming horn? Why carry two powder containers?

Because I don't want the 4F and the 3F to get mixed together :grin: .


But you're not really serious about this are you?

First you reach for /bring up a powder horn which you're going to use to charge your measure, then remove the horns's plug, then measure out a charge and dump it down bore, then drop or put away the measure, then put the plug back in the horn and get it out of the way.

Deal with seating a patched ball and put those items back away...then bring the rifle up into the hands and arms to get ready to prime.

It is at this point a powder container has to be reached for to prime the pan...you have to bring your horm around again, remove the stopper again, prime the pan, then put the stopper back in the horn again.

I simply reach into a shirt pocket and move the pan primer over the pan, depress its plunger dispenser into the pan, and drop the pan primer back into my shirt pocket.

As far as 4F for priming powder compared to 3F...there's no question by definition of powder granulations and their burn rates that 4F is faster than 3F or 2F...period...that's why its made for priming and that's why I chose to use it for priming.

I've heard all the defensive retoric from the 3F users about the average person not being able to tell a difference, etc, ad infinitum...but the bottom line is that 4F is faster than 3F or 2F...period.

Do what you like. Myself, I try to keep things as simple as possible by only carrying one horn.

I do indeed do what I like...and you should indeed do what you like.

The ONLY point I made above I'll make again here...and that is that those who choose 3F for prime should do so because THEY CHOOSE TO...and should not constantly drag out the tired old mantra that the reason is because of "all the trouble of having to deal with two powders" or "having to carry two containers".

Particularly when its completely clear using a pan primer makes priming simpler, more convenient, with less steps, and is faster.

The other outstanding attribute of a pan primer is the consistent 2-3 grns of priming powder that's dispensed exactly the same way every time time without a wasted motion.

:thumbsup:

 

[graybeard]

When i was new to flintlocks I bought a pound of blackmag3. the website said it would work fine in a flintlock. It won't. :cursing: Even using 4f goex for prime, the sub either failed to go off or had a very long delay. Now i use goex 3f for a main charge in my .50 flinter and goex 4f for prime, mostly for the reasons roundball gave, although I must say I can't tell the difference between 3f and 4f priming. It's more convenient to use a tiny priming flask tucked in a shirt pocket, that's for sure. graybeard

 

[shmrck1]

Mike,
As to using substitutes:nono:As to using
3fff only it is a matter of choice.
My friends roundball and Paul most likely
shoot several thousand rounds a year.I on the other hand shoot less than a 1000.3fff works for me in all my guns for the results I want.The
results they want may be entirely different than
mine,and that is what makes this sport so
challenging. Question and learn all you can then use what works for you.:v
snake-eyes:thumbsup:

 

[Uncle Mike]

Thanks to all for some good advice and ifo.Regards,Mike