flintlock takedown

[Dan Jordan]

Hey guys i got my new pedersoli frontier carbine the other day. got a chance to shoot it a couple times 2day . Shoots great ,but when i went to take barrell off to clean i couldn't figure it out . The instructions were no help. I removed the screw holding the front thimble/barrel and the rear tang screw on top at the rear by lock. Is there another screw to remove. I had a full size frontier and it only had the two screws i just mentioned ..... Any help or suggetions would be appreciated. Cleaned the barrell and lock while still on stock.

 

[pargent]

The 2 sideplate screws will remove the lock ( undo the screws and remove the lock ) you have already figured out not to remove the barrel :thumbsup:

 

[Black Hand]

It is strongly suggested that you don't remove the barrel for cleaning.

Plug the touchhole with a toothpick, fill the barrel with warm water and a little dishsoap and let sit for a few minutes. Pour out the soapy water and rinse with water several times. If needed, scrub the bore with a patch/patches and rinse. Dry the bore and lube. Wipe the outside of the barrel with a lubed patch to protect the metal.

Remove the lock to clean, but even lock removal isn't necessary every time.

 

[Sunkmanitu Tanka]

I agree with you if your gunstock is attached to the barrel with pins... The barrel of a frontier though is attached to the stock by means of screws, which avoids any possible stock damage ...
I like to remove the barrel and the lock of my frontier to clean the inside of the stock especially where the touch hole is situated. I do find that there is fouling on the inside of stock and lock and remove it after each shooting session...

 

[jbwilliams3]

This gun, oddly enough, has screws underneath the ramrod thimbles. It’s much simpler to remove than a pinned barrel, although still not necessary.

 

[Sunkmanitu Tanka]

That's exactly what I was refering to without going to far into details... I do doubt that this system (though handy to use) is historicaly correct, but on the other hand ... the entire gun is not exactly hc...

 

[rfdr]

i have a pedersoli kentucky, and i will *almost* Never remove the barrel, there is no need to do that maybe once a year. when the barrel's out, it gets cleaned and lubed, along with the stock's barrel channel.

barrel - as mentioned above, firmly plug the touch hole (i use a bees wax lubed toothpick), rag tied around the barrel end to catch stray water, hot water down the tube to fill up (i add a few drops of liquid soap), slosh around, leave standing 5 minutes, dump out the water, water swab the bore (flannel patches or a cotton bore swab), repeat 'til yer happy with how it looks, dry patch then an oiled patch.

lock - i typically remove that, hot water w/soap, toothbrush scrub to clean, water with no soap to wash, dry well with cloth and hot air gun, oil lightly. before screwing back the lock, i wipe down the stock to remove residue, then oil the barrel exterior that's seen.

wood - wiped clean, rub in some scott's liquid gold, done deal.

 

[Dan Jordan]

is it hard to remove the lock then get it back together correctly on the gun ,this is my third flinter and have never removed the lock on any of them just cleaned it real good from the outside...

 

[jdkerstetter]

Especially on a flinter you should remove the lock every time you clean to ensure on powder has trickled in behind it. An accumlation of powder and a errant spark will have dissasterous results.

Not to mention water that could be getting in there from the cleaning process. Plus how are you lubing your lock if you don't remove it?

It is not difficult to install the lock. If it has set triggers, set them so that the sear arm does not hit them going in. Ease the lock into the mortise keeping it straight until the pan bolster rest up against the barrel.

Reinstall your lock nails and tighten only until snug. Do not torque them down, since they offer no mechanical advantage, snug is good enough.

Always make sure your screwdriver head fits your screw slots properly so you don't bugger them up.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Billnpatti]

Not at all hard to remove, clean and replace a lock and it is essential to remove and clean it every time you clean your rifle. Just place it on half ****, back out the lock bolts (some locks have one and some have two) all the way and if the lock doesn't slip out easily, give the heads of the bolts a light rap to loosen the lock. It will then lift right out. The quickest and easiest way to clean a lock is with a spray can of automobile brake cleaner. Do not get it on your stock because it may damage your wood finish. With the lock removed, spray it thoroughly with the spray cleaner to flush out all of the crud. Then, if you have it, use some compressed air to blow out the lock and dry it. If you don't have compressed air available, not to worry, just shake off the excess brake cleaner and let it air dry. It will quickly dry within a minute or so Then LIGHTLY oil the working parts of the lock with a good gun oil (not grease). Grease or too much oil will just give crud a place to stick to your lock. Wipe off any excess and replace your now clean and properly oiled lock. Tighten the bolts only until snug but do not over tighten.

 

[54ball]

I have had 2 true accidental discharges in my shooting life. Both from the same flintlock.
The first time was years ago right after I recieved it, the second was on the range a couple of months ago. Both times the rifle was being handled safely.
The culprit was a sticky fly. The fly prevents the sear from catching on the half-**** notch when using a set trigger. In this lock the sticky fly would not let the sear engage the fullcock notch. So when I cocked it to fire...BLAM.

So the moral to this is the lock should be cleaned regularly and special attention needs to be paid to the tumbler and fly, all that needs to be clean and opperate freely.
A good lock spring vise and proper fitting drivers are a good idea. Sometimes you may need to disassemble a lock from time to time to make sure small almost hidden parts are clean and free.

 

[jdkerstetter]

....Then LIGHTLY oil the working parts of the lock with a good gun oil (not grease). Grease or too much oil will just give crud a place to stick to your lock.....

I have to disagree with ya here Bill. I apply a light application of quality gun grease, like Tetra, where the tumbler nose rides on the main spring and where the frizzen rides on it's spring. This will reduce the sliding friction on these parts.

A quality light oil with a needle applicator, like those used on fishing reels, is applied sparingly to the other moving parts.

Enjoy, J.D.