Flintlock Touch Hole Pick

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the swabbing pushed lots of fouling down into the breech, and it built up with each new swab.

Since I turned down the jag, no more fouling buildup in the breech,

Glad I finished reading yer post. After that first part I was getting ready to jump on ye as ye should know better than to use too large a jag. OK, carry on. :v
 
Rifleman1776 said:
the swabbing pushed lots of fouling down into the breech, and it built up with each new swab.

Since I turned down the jag, no more fouling buildup in the breech,

Glad I finished reading yer post. After that first part I was getting ready to jump on ye as ye should know better than to use too large a jag. OK, carry on. :v

Trouble is, all I've bought have been oversized, at least for my chosen swabbing patches. Not many folks know or bother to turn them down a bit, so end up playing silly swabbing games and pan flashes. Don't even have to have a lathe to turn them down. It would be easier if I had a drill press, but I just chuck them into my cordless drill and spin them against sandpaper to do the deed.
 
BrownBear said:
Got some little "micro" q-tips at a hobby shop, and frankly I use them when the soup appears.

BTW- Here are the ones I use. Little tiny buggers with the cotton bound so tight, it doesn't want to fray. Best thing I've found for drying touch holes in wet weather soup.
 
They're not nearly so absorbent as the swabs, and the more you can dry the hole, the better the results in a land with 90 inches of rain per year.
 
Gene L said:
I don't think a steel touch hole pick will affect your touch hole unless you compulsively use it time after time in an unusual manner. I say this as a relative newcomer to touch holes and flints, but the minimum amount of contact surely won't enlarge a touch hole...will it?

Yup, especially if it's used consistently over a long period of time. Ever wonder why they always tell you to use a "bore-guide" with those steel or stainless-steel cleaning rods?? Exactly because of that reason.

If you decide to use steel, make sure it is mild steel and not hardened steel. Personally, I use a copper pick, but I also have a brass one.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan
 
In the 18th century, the British and British American Armies normally issued a chained set of "whisk and prick" or "whisk and pick" to all enlisted men to use with their muskets. The picks were normally Iron Wire.

However, in the FIW period they also tried LEAD picks and originals have been found in excavations of FIW sites. I'm not sure they worked that well even if they had a percentage of tin in an alloy, though. It seems they fell out of favour by or during the AWI.

Gus
 
I only use one if I see crud in the vent. On humid days (70 - 80%) I get tar around the vent. Better to have and not need than need and not have. Currently I have porcupine quills in my shooting bag as a vent pick if needed.

This is after 30 shots unwiped and unpicked - just to see how it would go.

6pR6Nfi.jpg


We also have hawthorn shrubs that make GREAT vent picks. Tacks for powderhorn base plugs, too.

psinlye.jpg


And also why I don't wear Crocs on my back trails. ;-) They go through garden tractor tires.
 
I blow down the bore before loading, and tween shots. The same can be accomplished by a moist swab of the barrel. The ”˜whossh’ of air blowing out the vent leaves it as clear as pricking.
 
I located the vent pick storage on several of the guns I've built under or in the stocks cheek piece.

28871619687_11ffbb9eea_o.jpg
, on Flickr

The "Boys Rifle" at the far left and the "Reading", 4th from the left show the commercial pick storage inlays that can be bought from the major muzzleloading parts supplier.

2nd from the left you can see the small loop at the end of the vent pick at the rear of the cheek piece on my "Transitional" rifle.
This is stored in a hole that I burned about 1 1/2" deep into the wood.

My Bedford is also built using the commercial pick storage inlay.

28871954047_cdec166276_o.jpg
on Flickr
 
Don't use one of those sold as a traditional kind that has the twisted square corners made by heating square stock and twisting it before cooling.
They work like a square reamer, and will enlarge your vent hole over time.
 
I have used a 4" section of coat hangar wire. I heated the wire and hammered a section square. I flattened one end. I heated and twisted the square section for decoration and grip. The flat section was curled over to make a loop. The remaining round section was ground down to fit the touch hole.

In the picture, you can see the pick and whisk attached to the strap on the cartridge box and a spare pick made from copper wire next to the cartridge block insert.

25824101488_8e3bbe5b58_z.jpg


The turnscrew/hammer and the Y shaped turnscrew pick are also in the kit and will work for the large touch hole in my Long Land Pattern Musket. I mostly use the pick attached to the whisk.
 
there is something not right about a man owning such beautiful rifles! they are VERY nice. thank You for posting that picture
 

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