Flintlock won't cock

[Togo]

Usually L&R will be stamped on the inside

 

[Grenadier1758]

@gorbysj71, here is an illustration of the internals of a flint lock with all the parts identified.

Three views of the sear are in the upper right-hand corner and oriented correctly in the bottom left-hand corner. Since what you need to do doesn't require full disassembly of the lock, you won't need any tools other than a screwdriver to remove the lock and (ugh, I hate to say it) a Dremel tool with a grinding stone. The sear should be hardened so a file probably won't remove any metal. Just touch the grinding wheel to the tip of the sear lever. That should be enough. When reinstalling the lock, tighten the lock bolts to snug. That's tight enough. You do not want to pull the lock further into the lock mortise and cause other rubbing issues.

 

[Daryl Crawford]

Mark down that tightness.

 

[FlinterNick]

Sounds like the lock is too tight in the mortise, it its not cocking then the tumbler / mainspring interaction likely doesn’t have enough clearance or its the sear that doesn’t have enough clearance.

OR it could be binding points of the lock internals, here are a few common issues.

Mainspring; connects with the tumbler, the foot should clear with the tumbler at half and full cock, the foot should not be hitting the pan bolster, and the foot / bend should not be engaging the tumbler body, if the mainspring isn’t correctly fitted, this could keep the lock from moving to half or full cock.

Many issues arise from the bridle; bridles that are kept stationary with screws tend to bind up and put pressure on the tumbler and sear, this can be remedied by loosing the screws slightly.

Lastly the sear or bridle may not be drilled straight, check the screws on the plate without any internals. Crooked screws can misalign a lock. If this is the case, you’ll find witness marks (scratches and gashes) on the Lockplate where the misalignment is the strongest.

 

[Pete G]

Do NOT use a dremmal on the sear!

 

[burlesontom]

If you don't know what those parts are or how they work then give your dremel and files to your GF and tell her to hide them where you can't possibly find them. More guns are screwed up or permanently damaged by misused files and grinders. Get help from someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[FlinterNick]

If you don't know what those parts are or how they work then give your dremel and files to your GF and tell her to hide them where you can't possibly find them. More guns are screwed up or permanently damaged by misused files and grinders. Get help from someone who knows what they are doing.

The questions as how to reduce the tension strength of a sear spring…. There are not many ways to do this other than with a file, or some kind of sanding mechanism. Or finding a drop in sear spring (hardest method) personally I make my own sear springs from 1070 stock.

Other option, gunsmith, but what do you think the gunsmith will do?

 

[FlinterNick]

Do NOT use a dremmal on the sear!

If you use a 320 grit sanding drum at slow speeds you’ll be fine.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Ok, so I sat down today to work on this problem and the first thing I did was back off the screw on the other side of the hammer slightly. I had to work to get it to break free. Its still snug just not super tight. I haven't had a problem cocking the gun since. I am going to put some blue locktite on it and call it good. Thank you to everyone for your help figuring this out, you all had great suggestions!

So you found a common problem. Welcome to flintlock-ing!

DON'T alter any parts until you know. IF it's working fine, don't worry about it. IF it starts to do it again, it might be that the end of the sear is touching wood on the inside of the stock OR it might be wood contacting something else.


The way you find out, when you need to find out, is to remove the lock and remove all oil and grease from the internal parts of lock. Then take a lit candle, and use the flame to deposit soot on the interior parts of the fully assembled lock. Then you carefully replace the lock, and give it a few light taps with a plastic or wooden mallet. Then remove the lock and... the soot you put on the internal parts will have transferred to the wood inside, and will show where the lock was touching wood. You then will know, and may adjust either the stock or lock parts as needed. Clean the lock up, lubricate it, and replace it into the rifle.


LD

 

[DixieTexian]

Thank you all for the advice, it helps! I will try the suggestions. I have had the lock out and cleaned the rust that collected over the 30 years of sitting around. It was stuck before I cleaned it and worked (mostly) after the cleaning. I will try backing out the screws a bit and see if that helps. If not, I will take the lock out and try the other things you guys suggested. I will post my findings and maybe pictures soon. My GF has a list of S*** for me to do this weekend so I might not get to it for a couple of days.

Just tell her you are trying to figure out how to get your cock to stay up.

 

[burlesontom]

I'm not familiar enough with the workings of the lock, I dont know where the seer is. If I did, would I use a dremel tool or a file to grind it off?

The questions as how to reduce the tension strength of a sear spring…. There are not many ways to do this other than with a file, or some kind of sanding mechanism. Or finding a drop in sear spring (hardest method) personally I make my own sear springs from 1070 stock.

Other option, gunsmith, but what do you think the gunsmith will do?

I understood the question. But the poster said he didn't even know what those parts were. If you don't know what the parts are then you have no business grinding or filing until you do know.

There is nothing wrong with not knowing. He did the right thing by asking for help. But just starting to grind on a sear will most likely result in a ruined part.

 

[FlinterNick]

I'm not familiar enough with the workings of the lock, I dont know where the seer is. If I did, would I use a dremel tool or a file to grind it off?

Yea grinding or stoning a part might not be a good idea for the novice.