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Even faster than 4F is Swiss Null B.

Null N use to come in 1 pound cans, now it comes in 1/2 pound cans..
 
According to Larry Pletcher's timing tests, in order of speed Null-B, 4F, and 3F are all faster than human perception(the time difference is a few milliseconds.). You can use any of the three and do OK. A good follow through is more important. No matter the cost of the clubs, a poor golfer will still be a poor golfer. ;)
 
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I've always used 4f in the pans as I think it burns faster and is easier to ignite. Considering how much you put in a pan, a pound of 4f will last a long, long time. Some guys use 3f or whatever in the pans and do okay with it, I just think 4f has a better chance of giving a guy the best performance.
 
I've used 2f, 3f and 4f to prime my flintlocks. Sometimes I think I can tell the finer powders are faster, other times they feel the same to me. I have ffffg in stock so continue to use it when I remember to pack it along.
 
I'm new to flintlocks and have been watching posts about powder. I see comments on 3FG and 4FG being used in the pans. Is this just a matter of shooter preference or gun preference?

Thanks in advance
Terry
The choice for pan powder begins with what is the available real black powder. If all that is available is 3f, then that is the preferred powder as long as it is real black powder such as Scheutzen or Swiss. Some GOEX may still be available but not for long as the GOEX powder is no longer being manufactured. The substitute powders may have the 3f grain size marking, but substitutes require a higher ignition temperature and just have not proven to be a reliable powder for a flint lock rifle. Then it is a gun preference.

There are cases of touch hole position that may make it seem as if the finer powder is faster. As has been stated, most people can't tell a difference between using 3fg or 4f in the pan.
 
It will also depend on how you plan to prime the pan.

If you are using a horn etc. with a large opening just about anything will work but you may get a little to much powder in the pan.
If you are using one of the little plunger type primers 4F will flow through it better than larger grains will and dispenses less powder.

Both will work
 
As far as I'm concerned, it's always the French PNF4P (4Fg) and the 3Fg or 2Fg (names PNF2 and "Chasse". The granulation and the wood are different (regularity of the granulation between grains) and the fouling also for the "Chasse" (chestnut wood) but cheaper powder.
The 0B only for matches, but too expensive for a regular training four times a week and, as the difference in ignition speed is not important, preference to PNF4P...
The Swiss No. 1 (4Fg) is very well adapted, not as expensive as the 0B, but much less lively than the other two (0B and PNF4P)...
I always use two different powders for the pan (4Fg) and the loading powder, any load of any grade but always 4Fg in the pan...
That's my way, not the best, just my way for flint shooting...
 
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i used goex 2f in my barrel and in the pan goes goex 4f, but when thats done, i'm going to try 3f either scheuten or swiss. i have 3/4 lb of goex 4f and that will last years.
 
I have never used 4f in the barrel. Is there any adjustment in amounts compared to 2f?
In a long rifle, this is not a good recommendation for BP shooting, not at all. That'll be good with one shot pistol and revolving pistol, but no more...
If you can see a can of Swiss BP N°1 somewhere, you can see that, here is a can of 2 European pounds (1 Kg for us) :

4fg.jpg

You can see here the granulometry of the French and Swiss BP (or vice versa) :
Poudres noires.jpg
 
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I have never used 4f in the barrel. Is there any adjustment in amounts compared to 2f?
Yes. Going from 2f to 3f I usually reduce about 10% for a starting load.
I haven't done it myself yet, but if I were going to go to 4f for my main charge I would reduce by more than that for a starting load.
There is someone here who uses 4f on the regular for his main charge with much success. Then, there are a whole bunch of people who get their panties in a wad and freak out over it, but, provide no real evidence of it actually being a problem. That said, just like any loading development changing powder, start low, work up (if needed) and be smart about it.

One legitimate issue I cab see with using 4f for a main charge is that it is usually not coated and therefore more prone to absorbing moisture if given the opportunity.
 

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