I'm doing some research on building my first kit gun. I'm 90% sure I want a flintlock. I know the biggest buggaboo with flintlocks is the fact that cheaper locks can be a headache to get working properly. Whereas with a caplock, nearly any lock will function and fire. I'm not going to be able to buy/build a gun with a very high quality lock. I'm mostly looking at Traditions, Lyman, and the like for the kits. So does that mean that flints are out for me? Without starting the proverbial flint vs cap war, can we get a NICE discussion going on the pros/cons of each and also the finer points of flintlocks? Thanks in advance.
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Flints vs caplocks
- Thread starter JimG
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Just an opinion, but if you are 90% sure you want a flintlock, you will probably not be happy with a caplock. You can buy parts a few at a time and do a lot of the work while you save a few more dollars to get a good flintlock. Jusy my opinion of course.
Johnny Tremain
Silversmith in training
Id HIGHLY recomend you visit Jim Chamber's flintlock website and check out his kits.
Everything you need for your first piece in one box.
Good pricing, and a top notch lock.
Everything you need for your first piece in one box.
Good pricing, and a top notch lock.
chickenlittle
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There are kits and there a kits. My understanding is the Lyman kits are pretty simple to do. I think the lock is already assembled, same as on their finished guns so lock function shouldn't be any different. The procedures for kits are found in their user manufal. A link to it in adobe acrobat pdf format is below.
[url] http://lymanproducts.com/lymanproducts/LymanUsersGuide.pdf[/url]
[url] http://lymanproducts.com/lymanproducts/LymanUsersGuide.pdf[/url]
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Mike Brooks
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I'd save a little more money and do it right and get a kit with a good lock the first time around. You won't be sorry you waited.
MikeChapin
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I don't know what type of budget you are looking at but will go along with the others on saying that you should go for the best lock you can get. The high end kits aren't cheap but the satisfaction factor is well worth the price.
That being said, I have had good luck for the most part, with cheap locks. I have had a couple of clunkers over the years. When you get one of those, a toothache is mild by comparison. You may want to talk to those people who have used the Traditions or Lyman flinters and see what they think about those locks.
I have a CVA flint pistol that has worked fine for twenty years but I have also seen people fighting with the same type of lock. One does get a fine vocabulary lesson when you are around one of these folks.
That being said, I have had good luck for the most part, with cheap locks. I have had a couple of clunkers over the years. When you get one of those, a toothache is mild by comparison. You may want to talk to those people who have used the Traditions or Lyman flinters and see what they think about those locks.
I have a CVA flint pistol that has worked fine for twenty years but I have also seen people fighting with the same type of lock. One does get a fine vocabulary lesson when you are around one of these folks.
JimG,
I have Traditions, Lyman, and T/C flintlocks. I have no problem with any of the locks. Although I have known many people who have had problems with locks some of those locks, mine have proven to be quite reliable. I can attribute every misfire that I have had to something that I have done.
There are time that I would like to have a more historically accurate gun, but I have gotten a lot of enjoyment from my flinters and have never had occassion to wish that I had gotten a better lock.
I have Traditions, Lyman, and T/C flintlocks. I have no problem with any of the locks. Although I have known many people who have had problems with locks some of those locks, mine have proven to be quite reliable. I can attribute every misfire that I have had to something that I have done.
There are time that I would like to have a more historically accurate gun, but I have gotten a lot of enjoyment from my flinters and have never had occassion to wish that I had gotten a better lock.
I see L/R offers a replacement line for the Lymans, CVA, and Traditions guns. Two questions-
1. Are these locks a drop in proposition for the Lyman and Traditions flint guns? Is it a nice fit into the inletting or sloppy? Or does it depend on the gun and who inletted the lock area?
2. I see that there are 'large' and 'small' replacement flint locks for the Lymans and Traditions. Will any of these fit the flint pistols?
Sorry if these questions seem tedious or silly, just trying to learn a little. :grin:
1. Are these locks a drop in proposition for the Lyman and Traditions flint guns? Is it a nice fit into the inletting or sloppy? Or does it depend on the gun and who inletted the lock area?
2. I see that there are 'large' and 'small' replacement flint locks for the Lymans and Traditions. Will any of these fit the flint pistols?
Sorry if these questions seem tedious or silly, just trying to learn a little. :grin:
Johnny Tremain
Silversmith in training
Opps almost forgot
[url] http://www.flintlocks.com/rifles.htm[/url]
[url] http://www.flintlocks.com/rifles.htm[/url]
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Bill Bryan
40 Cal.
I started out with a CVA Kentucky pistol when I was in high school. I had to play around with the flint geometry to get it to spark well but I've been shooting it now for over 30 years.
I have percussion and flint rifles and pistols but I find flints more fun. I get a lot more satisfaction of keeping the shoots on paper at 100 yards with a flintlock than keeping them in the black with a percussion.
Just my opinion. :thumbsup:
I have percussion and flint rifles and pistols but I find flints more fun. I get a lot more satisfaction of keeping the shoots on paper at 100 yards with a flintlock than keeping them in the black with a percussion.
Just my opinion. :thumbsup:
Jim G,
I have a Traditions Hawken Woodsman (christmas gift couple years back) in flint, and from day one the Lock has worked perfectly. The angle of the flint to the frizzen is right on the money. You may have to nip the flints back edge so it sets back a bit (depending on its length), but other than that it should line up and arc perfectly. My frizzen throws good sparks, as well.
Just got my real BP (was using 777 - don't do this, it won't light up reliably), and am hoping to get out soon and check ignition.
All problems to date have been from 777.
Hope this helps..........
Legion
I have a Traditions Hawken Woodsman (christmas gift couple years back) in flint, and from day one the Lock has worked perfectly. The angle of the flint to the frizzen is right on the money. You may have to nip the flints back edge so it sets back a bit (depending on its length), but other than that it should line up and arc perfectly. My frizzen throws good sparks, as well.
Just got my real BP (was using 777 - don't do this, it won't light up reliably), and am hoping to get out soon and check ignition.
All problems to date have been from 777.
Hope this helps..........
Legion
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Quote,
Sorry if these questions seem tedious or silly, just trying to learn a little.
The only dumb question is the One You Didn't Ask.
Robert
Sorry if these questions seem tedious or silly, just trying to learn a little.
The only dumb question is the One You Didn't Ask.
Robert
The quality of cheap locks is inconsistent. Many cheap locks work well enough, but a good lock, like anything made by Chambers, will blow the socks off of anyone who is used to shooting guns with cheap locks.
The difference is like driving a Yugo, vs driving a Caddy. IMHO, the barrel and lock are the heart of the gun, so buy the best you can afford.
IMHO, The best lock on the market is any of the Chambers, or the Ditchburn, followed by Davis or L&R.
IMHO, The best barrels that are readily available are Rice, Getz, Rayl, and DeHaas, in any order. GM barrels are ok.
There are other barrel makers out there who produce good barrels, but have a looonnnggg turn around time.
Buckeye barrels stocks barrels from many of these makers, so delivery time should be relatively short.
J.D.
The difference is like driving a Yugo, vs driving a Caddy. IMHO, the barrel and lock are the heart of the gun, so buy the best you can afford.
IMHO, The best lock on the market is any of the Chambers, or the Ditchburn, followed by Davis or L&R.
IMHO, The best barrels that are readily available are Rice, Getz, Rayl, and DeHaas, in any order. GM barrels are ok.
There are other barrel makers out there who produce good barrels, but have a looonnnggg turn around time.
Buckeye barrels stocks barrels from many of these makers, so delivery time should be relatively short.
J.D.
Jim --
Not sure about the Lyman RPL (meaning L&R's line of replacement locks) sizes. On the Traditions, yes, the small ought to fit the pistols. On CVA and Traditions guns the factory locks are the same size on the pistols and certain rifles.
As for "dropping in" -- I haven't installed any of the RPL line and don't know anyone who has, but I do know that, about a year ago, Fred Stutzenberger wrote an article on the RPLs for "Muzzle Blasts" magazine, in which he made it pretty plain that at least most of the RPL locks require a small amount of re-inletting to fit up. The lockplates, if I recall right, are a tad bit larger, or shaped slightly differently, and the internal parts are totally different in shape and size from the factory product. For someone used to inletting entire locks, from scratch, or doing at least a little detailed woodworking, this shouldn't be too daunting a task. You know best what you're comfortable tackling.
Not sure about the Lyman RPL (meaning L&R's line of replacement locks) sizes. On the Traditions, yes, the small ought to fit the pistols. On CVA and Traditions guns the factory locks are the same size on the pistols and certain rifles.
As for "dropping in" -- I haven't installed any of the RPL line and don't know anyone who has, but I do know that, about a year ago, Fred Stutzenberger wrote an article on the RPLs for "Muzzle Blasts" magazine, in which he made it pretty plain that at least most of the RPL locks require a small amount of re-inletting to fit up. The lockplates, if I recall right, are a tad bit larger, or shaped slightly differently, and the internal parts are totally different in shape and size from the factory product. For someone used to inletting entire locks, from scratch, or doing at least a little detailed woodworking, this shouldn't be too daunting a task. You know best what you're comfortable tackling.
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