Flints

[tg]

" its pc' ness might be questioned though."

probablly not BoB most of us realize that the wheel predates ML rifles and flints and such accesories by a long time....

 

[roundball]

" its pc' ness might be questioned though."

probablly not BoB most of us realize that the wheel predates ML rifles and flints and such accesories by a long time....

:grin:

 

[Kentuckywindage]

Think i "found"the problem. Everytime i pull the cock back, it feels spongy and now it wont even fall forward. As long as u keep squeezing the trigger, it will go little by little. I think the stock swelled up from water in the lock inlet area. It has to be swelled in that area. After i shoot it, i usually take a damp paper towel with windex and wipe out all the fouling in that area. Tomorrow i will pick up a sandpaper roller and slowly inlet the lock area a tad bit. This is whats holding my flint back and slowing it down. Right now i can put my finger between the flint and frizzen, pull the trigger and hardly feel the flint when it comes down on my finger. Thats telling me its a possible main spring inlet issue. Any other ideas? All the other flints work like a charm on my traditions.

 

[roundball]

Think i "found"the problem. Everytime i pull the cock back, it feels spongy and now it wont even fall forward. As long as u keep squeezing the trigger, it will go little by little. I think the stock swelled up from water in the lock inlet area. It has to be swelled in that area. After i shoot it, i usually take a damp paper towel with windex and wipe out all the fouling in that area. Tomorrow i will pick up a sandpaper roller and slowly inlet the lock area a tad bit. This is whats holding my flint back and slowing it down. Right now i can put my finger between the flint and frizzen, pull the trigger and hardly feel the flint when it comes down on my finger. Thats telling me its a possible main spring inlet issue. Any other ideas? All the other flints work like a charm on my traditions.

Please let me ask you not to start making modification to the stock wood...I've hunted TC Hawkens for about 17 years year round been caiught in rain, etc...never had any wood swelling...wiping wood with a damp cloth is not going to cause the wood to swell...I use hot soapy water and a toothbrush on mine every Saturday...you'd have to submerge a TC Hawken stock in a bathtub for a day or so for it to absorb water and start swelling.

Your dragging is coming from something else...the first thing to remember is that when you mount the lock, then screw in the lock bolt from the opposite side, just screw it in until it is basically finger snug...if you really tighten it down, it will pull in/bend in the lock side plate and bind things up, causing symptoms like you described.

So remove the lock from the stock and see if it's hammer movement is free while just holding it in your hand...(be careful as you can get hurt if you trip the sear accidently)...then reinstall it in the stock and just gently snug up the lock screw and try it.

 

[Kentuckywindage]

did that today about 4-5 times i had the lock out and thats when i figured that the lock is rubbing internally. When i pull the lock, its smooth and doesnt have the spongy feel, as soon as i put it back in the stock and not even screw it in, its spongy and doesnt want to fire. I was just thinking about using the roller to clean it up in there a bit to get it all nice and smooth and hope it worked. I only "snug" the lock screws in too. As soon as i feel it grip the wood, i stop.

One more thing. I found a little hex head screw on my trigger missing. Its the little adjustment screw thats right between the set trigger and the fire trigger. Im going to change the triggers out with the one from my deer creek and see if it does anything, but so far i have no clue whats causing the binding up and spongy feel.

 

[Kentuckywindage]

Now i nailed it! Main spring has a little nipple that i need to file down because it is hitting the frizzen spring area and pressing the main spring into the side of my barrel. I have about a 30 thousandth's gap between my lock plate and the main spring. Once i trim the nipple down a little, i think i'll be in the clear. Lets hope so!

 

[roundball]

Now i nailed it! Main spring has a little nipple that i need to file down because it is hitting the frizzen spring area and pressing the main spring into the side of my barrel. I have about a 30 thousandth's gap between my lock plate and the main spring. Once i trim the nipple down a little, i think i'll be in the clear. Lets hope so!

What kind of a lock is this?

 

[Kentuckywindage]

cva mountain rifle lock. It turned out that i didnt have to file anything down. I took the lock apart, cleaned everything and buffed with 0000 steel wool, wiggled the main spring around while i was putting it back in and it slipped all the way through the hole. Must have been a burr holding it up. Put it back in the stock and it comes back freely now and i even got it to spark before the POS leather flint holder let go and the flint fell out. Im going to wrap the flint in lead tomorrow. Thats the biggest reason i hate leather for holding flints, It always works loose.

 

[Kentuckywindage]

:cursing: :cursing: Now im mad. Last week i ordered a $12 frizzen spring off some guy on ebay, the spring lost its tension and so i go to spread it open a little and to my horror, it snaps and as i take a look, Its CAST! Who the heck would make a cast frizzen spring? Its no wonder i only had around a 1 1/2 lb spring tension on my frizzen. My traditions has around 4-5lbs and springs open fast when the slightly pressure bumps it. Boy i swear, you cant order any good parts on ebay.

 

[shmrck1]

roundball,
That looks like a great addition to
my Dremel.Just wondering how well they
hold up?Just wondering how many to order
for my particular needs.
snake-eyes:hmm:

 

[roundball]

Don't know what your needs are, but after seeing how fast Mizzy wheels ground down, when I ordered these diamond wheels I got a dozen...did every flint that needed doing and the same wheel still looks like new.

If you're going to have to pay postage you might as well get 2-3 but not knowing what else you might use them for I can't guess your real needs

 

the spring lost its tension and so i go to spread it open a little and to my horror, it snaps and as i take a look, Its CAST! Who the heck would make a cast frizzen spring? .

It didn't break because it's cast, it broke because you tried to spread it cold. As far as "Who the heck would make a cast frizzen spring?" goes, well, L&R does as does Jim Chambers. In fact, the only commecial lock I know of that DOESN'T is Stan Hollenbaugh's Ditchburn lock. Sorry man, cast springs are the rule rather than the exception.

 

[sniper68]

Here is another system I thought I might share, that I've tried and found it works extremely well.
DMT last year came out with a 8" XX coarse diamond stone. It appears to be a 50 or 60 grit stone. The dremel type are around 150 to 160 grit. The draw backs to the wheels are, heat, silica dust, flints are hard to secure and you can't really grind the bottoms(which sometimes to be done), just the tops and yes they do wear out...As shown in the picture, I place the stone in a baking pan with enough water to cover the stone an 1/8" to 1/4",no silica dust and mask to worry about and no heat. Then start pushing down and grinding the tops and/or bottoms as needed. Real easy to get the feel of it. DMT uses a higher grade industrial diamond that the wheels use. You will wear out long before the stone will. Your kids will probably get a couple of bucks for it at a Pawn shop years from now.... :thumbsup:

 

[bob1961]

all i'v ever used when i started with my T/C hawken was there prem agate flints with 30 to 50 shots on a flint....now i have some of toms flint that i haven't tried yet :v .............bob

 

[Kentuckywindage]

Lock is now fixed. Im getting some sparks but not many. I ordered 12 tom fuller flints and will give those a try. Im going to make a lead flint wrap and see if that will improve my sparks for right now. I dont feel any more spongy feel to it anymore.

 

[roundball]

Excellent...you'll be an old hat at lock-smithing at thus rate !
:thumbsup:

 

[Kentuckywindage]

Sparks great now that i wrapped the flint in lead! This is a huge chunk of weight off my chest. Now when those tom fuller flints come in, i'll be set and ready for hunting season. So far my load is 80 grains FFG, .010 patch i lube myself with melted bore butter, Speer .530 roundball. Shooting 2" groups @ 100 yards so far. Hopefully the increase in sparks from the flint will help me with my slight hang fires.

 

[roundball]

Outstanding bench work...
However, if there is a little delayed fire it will have a greater impact off the bench, like when you're hunting.

I guess you're being careful not to put so much prime in the pan that it is up against the vent hole...if it is, it might add an element of delay as it burns down to uncover the vent hole;

Or, the size of the vent hole itself might be on the smallish side and ignition speed might benefit by it being enlarged an eyelash...if you have a 5/64" drill bit, see if it'll slide in through the existing vent hole.

 

[shmrck1]

roundball,
Thanks,that is exactly what I was hoping you
would say.Will order 3.
snake-eyes:hatsoff:

 

[robinghewitt]

when those tom fuller flints come in, i'll be set and ready for hunting season.

Presume you do know that Tom has retired and isn't cutting flint anymore :hmm: