Florida Flintlock

[TruCraft]

Hi folks, just joined your site. Been around guns, reloading and shooting since I was a little kid. Originally from the Buffalo, NY area. I hunted woodchucks, deer, and bird. Mostly rifles and shot guns.
I built a CVA flintlock kit in the mid 80's, and did some target shooting for fun. I remember it being very accurate and fun to shoot.
Then, I moved to Clearwater, FL in 1986 and got into pistol target shooting.
:thumbsup:
Last week I was cleaning and took my CVA Flintlock out of storage.
I want to start shooting it again!
It's a .45 caliber, with a 32" barrel.
Disassembled everything and started cleaning.
The springs for the lock are all broken, so I ordered new ones.
The barrel bore is a little pitted, but should be fine.
Can't find the paper work for the rifle, so I will need some help with powder, patches, lube, loading data.............
Also, any local Florida folks that know any gun shops that carry muzzle loading supplies would be great.
Clubs in my area?
Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks
Lyle

 

[roundball]

It's a .45 caliber, with a 32" barrel.
will need some help with powder, patches, lube, loading data.

Some rules-of-thumb that seem to work as a good starting point are:

Use "the caliber" for a powder charge to play with at the range...ie: 45 -50grns Goex 3F is an excellent target load in my .45s;

Nominal size patches & balls should be a pretty good starting point as well, and you can tinker from there if you want or need to:
ie: .015" patches and .440" balls

 

[paulvallandigham]

I agree with Roundball's recommendations. Start with a .440" ball, and a .015" patch. Use a good lube, or spit. But use a NON-petroleum lube when hunting, rather than water or spit. Also, consider lubing the bore with a lubed cleaning patch after seating the ball on your powder when hunting in Florida. It will protect the bore from rusting while you are waiting. Olive Oil, and many vegetable oils work just fine. There are recipes for making your own lube here. Go up to Member Resources, and read.

I use Young Country 101 Lube-a vegetable based lube--, but its about done, and its successor is labeled " Wonderlube". Before going hunting, or to the range, I like to flush the barrel out with alcohol to remove any oils- petroleum based, or vegetable from the barrel, so I can be sure the barrel is clean, and the Flash channel/vent hole is clear.

If the gun has set in a gun cabinet or closet for some length of time, I remove the lock, and re-oil all the moving parts, and check all the screws to make sure none is loose, before replacing the lock and going out to shoot the gun. That is how you prevent rusting, and breakage. That same lock is removed from the stock, and cleaned, and re-oiled at the end of any shoot or hunt, when its going back in storage.

If your gun has set long enough, the wood of the stock and the ramrod may not be in very good shape. Pull the barrel, and check the mortise to see if it was ever sealed with a stock finish to prevent moisture from entering or leaving the wood. Check that Ramrod for grain Run-out. It it exists, replace it with a good hickory stick that has only straight grain. The ferrules on the ramrod need to be pinned to the wood shaft. Other wise, agressive pulling with separate the ferrules and your jag from the stick and really tie up the gun.

I have forgotten how the CVA flintlock is designed. Does that vent hole go directly into the side of the barrel, or does it follow a small channel to the center of the back of the barrel, where it enters the bore in a " Powder Chamber" that is smaller in diameter than the bore diameter?? If its the latter it can be a royal PITA to keep it firing. ( Which may explain another reason you put it aside, and went to shooting something else!) I don't know how close to Tallahassee you live, but I can refer you to a competent gun maker, and long time barrel maker who can " fix" that problem in your rifle. Send me a PT.

Glad to have you back shooting BP. Google Goex, or go to the Links section here to get their Web-site, and find the distributor for Florida. Either Email, or call him, and you will get the nearest retailer to you who sells BP. If you scroll down this forum a few lines, you will find a topic called " accessories", where there are frequent postings on where to buy Black Powder. If you buy BP in quantity( find friends to pool an order) you can save a lot of money having it shipped to your own door.

 

[boar]

That was my second ML gun and my first flinter. It was a kit I bought for 90.00 in 1982. I shot my first ML groundhog and squirrel with it. I sold it for a 100.00 as lock was too slow for me, it sparked good tho. I have four cap locks now. I use 440 RB 40grs 3ff , for small game.For deer I use 70grs. Your twist will be 1-66, ball making a half turn. I have the 445 mold, but don't use it much as you have to have a thinner patch. Good cheap guns that will do the job. :thumbsup: Dilly

 

[cowpoke1955]

Welcome to the forum :hatsoff: . It sounds like you have a CVA Mountain Rifle. Everyone talks highly of them. For replacement parts on the old CVAs call Deer Creek at 765-525-6181, sorry no web site. A lot of other good advice was given about loads. I've been here for a couple of years and can't find any traditional muzzleloading supplies, but they are all over the net. I wish you luck finding a club. I'm still looking. Best of luck :thumbsup:

 

[Billnpatti]

The best thing I can tell you is to contact your nearest NMLRA field representative. They will be a fount of information and help. I am not sure which one is the closest to you so I will give all of them to you.

Ray Triplett, Mulberry, 850-425-4320
Scott Pierce, Eustis, 352-589-0169
David Southall, Bonita Springs, 239-992-0113
John Austin, Miami, 305-633-1364
Philip Quaglino, Havana, 850-539-0995
Kenneth Long, High Springs, 386-454-4191
Mark Erhardt, Davie, 954-632-9720
Gus Koerner, Titusville, 321-591-6831

Give one of them a call and tell them that you are wanting to get back into muzzleloading. They will be able to tell you where to shop for muzzleloading goodies and where the nearest club is located. :thumbsup:

 

[cptleo1]

As far as I know we only have one BP shop in FL.

That would be Buffalo Bills in Orlando

FL is pretty much a BP waste land.

There are several members here from the Tampa - Sarasota area.

The most active BP club in the state is up there by Tallahassee.

They are the guys who put on the Afalia Rendezvous, which is HUGE.

Goggle up the rendezvous and you can find the club info.

Welcome back.

 

[TruCraft]

Thanks for the quick replies.
Will do a little searching on the net and see what I can find locally.
Waiting for parts from Deer Creek Products to come in.
Will try to find 4f for priming and 3f for main powder.
I like the 45 caliber = 45 grains of powder formula......simple to remember.
The stock and most parts are in real nice shape on my gun. The barrel is pitted inside but should be OK. From now on I will remove the lock and barrel for cleaning, that black powder is tough on metal.
*Cant find the homemade patch lube.....?
Thanks again for the help.
Lyle

 

[curator]

Check out the Florida Frontiersmen in Bartow/Wachula. They have regular shoots and a geat rendezvous in the winter months called the Alafia River rendezvous.

 

[fyrfyter43]

*Cant find the homemade patch lube.....?

Here ya go... http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/

 

[TruCraft]

Thanks for the info.
I found a place to get BP locally.
Bill Jackson Inc. located just a couple miles from my shop! http://www.billjacksons.com/
Didn't buy anything yet.
$26/pound seems high, but they say they need a $2,500 license to store and sell it!

Also found that the Wyoming Antelope club has a Black powder meet, will check on it and post what I find. I have shot pistols there before, nice outdoor shooting place. http://www.antelopeclub.org/disciplines/index.htm
Just got my parts from Deer Creek.....
Lyle

 

[mazo kid]

$26/pound seems high, but they say they need a $2,500 license to store and sell it!
Lyle

I had thought about getting the Fed. Explosive License a couple of years ago so I could get BP at dealer cost. The price for the Explosives license was $300.00 with a 6-8 month processing time and a lot of fingerprinting, etc. I didn't think it was worth it! I would say that most of the $2500.00 cost is probably the storage magazine construction; you would have to be able to sell a lot of black powder to get that money back.

 

[TruCraft]

Put my new springs on and re-browned the barrel and lock assembly.
Everything back together, looking and working good!
The flint was sparking, but now it wont!?
The flint is old and chipped. Have a piece of leather wrapped around it.
Should the flint have a bevel/angle on it?
Was going to post a picture but don't know how yet, will search.
Lyle