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Haveing read on here about melting pots, bottoms pour vs. ladle. My question is which size, Lee sells a 4lb and a 20 lb. dollar amount is not significant. I at this time don't see that I will be casting great numbers, but larger calibers, .54 .58 .60 and .72.
In your opinion which would be the most practical?
 
As far as practicality goes I always try to limit my number of casting sessions but maximize the number of balls per session that I cast. This saves me some time and and also some energy costs. The larger pot is more practical for me.

Ogre
 
Since you've already decided on style and your question is about what size to buy (if I'm reading your query correctly) in my opinion you've already answered it when you listed the mold sizes they you'll be using. Four pounds of lead won't go very far when casting .72 caliber balls; the other sizes that you've listed will empty a four-pounder pretty fast as well. In your situatuion, I'd get the larger one. Good luck - bullet casting is something that I really enjoy

sneezy
 
I had never converted grs. to ounces so I have no idea on how many rb I would get from a lb. So that is why I threw the calibers in there.
Thanks for the input, I've picked up moulds here and there, now the pot was my last step.
And if anyone know where I can get a .715 mould let me know.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here are a couple thoughts,
It is nearly impossible to ladle the last bit of lead from a pot, so figure the four pound capicity may have three or a little better useable. Here are the approx number of balls per pound.
.54 cal .530 dia 224 gr 31 balls per pound.
.58 cal .570 dia 279 gr 25 balls per pound.
.60 cal .600 dia 325 gr 21 balls per pound.
.75 cal .715 dia 550 gr 12 balls per pound.
So as you can see the larger diameter balls really use a LOT of lead.
 
Just got back from Cabelas this afternoon in Fort Worth and found a Lyman pot, holds 8lbs, and talked them down to $35. It was in the Bargin Cave, and the reason was, somebody had opened the box on the floor to look at the contents. Fired it up and poured about 100 .527 balls this evening.
 
I have an old lee production pot that I bought so long ago, I don't even remember when. I have used it mostly for center fire pistol and some rifle bullets, and I love it.

My only comment will be that you will find it difficult, (not impossible, but difficult) to get quality balls from a bottom pour set up in your larger molds. It has to do, I think, with the lead and the molds cooling faster than you can fill them.

Don't get discouraged if that happens, just crank up the heat. It can be done.
 
I'd go for the Lee 20 pound Magnum Melter. Lee is behind in production so you may have to shop around a bit to find one. There is nothing wrong with the Lee Production Melter with the bottom pour but I just like to use a ladle. I have used both and both are good. Do not settle for a smaller melter because you are casting pretty big balls and will need at least 20 pounds of lead to have a decent casting session before adding fresh lead to the pot. When you are casting, the fewer interruptions, the better.
 
I had looked at the Magnum melter, which for the money difference to the smaller pot made sense as the way to go, but needed re-affirmation to my thinking.
TOW has Lyman and another mold in .715 for reasonable price, so when I get that far, I'll turn to them.
Thanks for the input to all, Bernie :hatsoff:
 
The Lee Production Pot IV holds 10 pounds of lead, not 4. I've been using one for about 25 years with no problems. I cast a lot of .45, .50 and .54 cal. balls. I also cast a lot of conicals for the .50 and .54, along with fishing weights. If your lead starts to run low just drop another ingot in and flux it again. No big deal. The bottom pour pots do tend to drip, so make sure you keep a metal pan under the spout when in use. Either way you go, just think of the money you're going to save $$$$$$$ :thumbsup:
 
If I had it to do again, I would have gotten the Magnum Melter instead of the Production Pot IV that I have.

I went with bottom pour based on the recommendations here, but found I do better ladle casting. I ended up welding the bottom pour spout shut to eliminate drips and to get the valve mechanism out of the way to make it easier to use a ladle.

The biggest ball I currently cast is .530 and I wish I had a bigger pot than the 10# PP4.
 
i casted up 200 round balls from a 5lb lead pipe. I had a little lead to spare afterwards but it was a very very small amount. I was shocked actually that i only got 200 .490" round balls from 5 lbs. But it all adds up and it correct.
 
The way I cypher it, 197 .490" balls will weigh 5 lbs. Guess you weren't far off.
 
The reason I would want a bigger pot is because I drop all my sprues and other scrap into a tray and add them back into the pot all at once when it gets low. I also look over the balls then and add any bad ones back in at that time. So I'll get maybe 100-150 good balls out of the 7 or so useable pounds of lead in the pot (remember, I ladle cast). Then before I can continue casting, I put the sprues back in and add enough lead to fill the pot.

The bigger pot would allow me to cast alot more ball before having to start over with a pot full of cold lead.
 
that's the way to do it, throw al the scraps in after your done or ready for the next batch, then flux for consistancy. I used to use a big bottom pour furnace but I had so many problems with the nozzle clogging I started using my little Lee furnace and a ladle. I like the set up alot better, though it would be nice to have about 2x the capacity, for my larger projectiles.
 
We have dicussed this problem before. You need to take the plug out of the pot, and polish the heck out of it. Then polish the hole in the bottom of the pot. You can even enlarge the hole a bit, and still use the same plug. I don't have a Lee Precision Pot, but have seen them. I had a Lyman bottom pour pot, and until we polished everything to a mirror finish, we had problems with the plug not sealing the hole properly, and lead dripping out of the pot between pours.

We found that the hole was not actually round, while the plug was. Dad used the next size drill bit to open and smooth the hole a little, and make it round, and we had no problems after that.

He used a short piece of 1/8" dowel wood with a slit sawed into it to hold a strip of fine emery cloth, to polish the hole.

He tested the plug using water, then empties the water out, dried the pot with paper towels, let it sit for a couple of days, and then heated it up before dropping small pieces of lead into the pot to melt.

Every once in awhile, you will get a piece of slag down into the hole that will clog up and keep that plug from working properly. We found that if we didn't run the level of lead down too far, and fluxed often, that we eliminated this problem, too. Dad had a 1/4" thick steel plate under his pot to catch any drips or spills. The lead was easy to lift off and throw back into the pot. The plate also serves as a Heat Sink, to protect the wooden top to his bench from burning.
 
paulvallandigham said:
We have dicussed this problem before. You need to take the plug out of the pot, and polish the heck out of it. Then polish the hole in the bottom of the pot.

Paul, why is it such a problem for you that some folks prefer ladle casting over bottom-pour?

Every time I post about welding the spout shut on my bottom-pour pot, you whine and complain and tell me what I should have done instead of welding it shut.

My casting technique works for me, whether you like it or not. I can cast 150-200 balls and have no more than 10 that end up back in the pot, usually the first few balls from a cold mould. When I used to bother weighing them, every single ball weighed within 1 grain of the calculated weight for that size ball.

If people all did everything the same way, this would be a pretty boring world, and there would be no need for forums such as this one. When other folks ask for advice, I share my experiences with them, in case they may benefit from my experiences.
 
With all due respect, I never gave you a passing thought.

My comment was to Texcl. I don't care if you or anyone prefers to use a dipper.

I was explaining how to fix the problem with the bottom pour pots. This is not a new problem.

My father has been dead more than 12 years. He got his first bottom pour when I was in high school, in the early 1960s.[ Lee was not even making pots then.] Dad bought a larger pot in the 1970s. Dad was the Fixer- upper in the family. He was always making things rather than buying something. He taught my brother and me how to do the same kind of thinking and analysis. He said his own father, who died in 1929, was the same way.

To this day, even when I can afford to replace things, I am looking to find out what failed, and if it can't be fixed with a minimum of effort. I laugh at myself, and call myself " CHEAP", but my friends all think I am very special because I have learned to use tools and do things to fix appliances, and other things. They like the fact I can put a razor's edge on knives and chisels, without expensive power tools. The admire my ability to make fire with flint and steel, or a bow and drill. And some people admire my ability to tune both percussion and flintlocks, and share that information with others. More than once, people have asked me why I bother? My response, is why not?

Only recently have ladles been offered that can be easily used with a left hand. Traditional ladles could only be handled with the right hand efficiently. I got turned off of them very early on. My father got upset after paying good money to buy his Lyman bottom pour pot, and then found that the hole in the bottom was cast, and not drilled, so that it was not ROUND. So, with our help, he drilled out the hole a size or two larger, polished the heck out of it, then gave us the plug to polish with fine emery cloth. It was turned, but still had tool marks on it. We polished it for about an hour by hand to finally get it smooth, and then put oil on the used emery cloth to put an even finer finish on the steel plug. When we were done, it fit the hole like a finger in a tight glove. And, NO MORE DRIPS, unless some dross or debris got down into the pot. That only happened when we got careless about fluxing the molten lead every time we added to the pot. We learned. I don't know how many thousands of bullets and balls I have cast from bottom pour pots over the years. One of my good friends was a commercial caster for years, and still casts lots of bullets for friends, and family. I have spent hours with him, watching his technique, and have watched how he clears debris from the hole in his pot on the rare occasion something get into that hole. We have talked about how we fix the problem, and found we reached the same remedies years earlier. I don't think Jim ever met Dad. I know they would have gotten along very well, and Dad would have admired Jim's casting set-up.

So, Take that knot out of your shorts, buck-o. A little paranoia is healthy, but you are pushing it a bit to think I would ever single you out to criticize. Dip Away. :shocked2: :youcrazy: :rotf: :thumbsup:
 
paulvallandigham said:
So, Take that knot out of your shorts, buck-o. A little paranoia is healthy, but you are pushing it a bit to think I would ever single you out to criticize. Dip Away. :shocked2: :youcrazy: :rotf: :thumbsup:

On several occasions when I have posted about how I have fixed my bottom pour pot, you have made comments. Until now, I have kept my mouth shut. Your way of doing things isn't necessarily the best way, nor is it the only way.

Here's an example:
I don't know what is wrong with your bottom pour- or was, since you have apparently welded it up!--- but I have a hard time believing that the problem could not have been solved.

I wasn't asking for anybody's advice on how to fix my pot. I was describing what I did several months earlier to fix the problems with it.
 
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