Found interesting flintlock with a Sutter lock in a gun shop

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The proprietor had taken in a few commercial muzzleloaders (T/C and Traditions) and a custom, Frankenstein muzzle loading rifle from the estate of a recently deceased individual.
I decided to check on the flint lock's maker's name. He was W.G. Sutter, a gunsmith out of Ruff Dale, PA who was building long rifles from 1940's through the 1970s. A search on his name told me that he mostly made locks, but did make several rifles. He supplied locks to Dixie Gun Works.
The rifle is HEAVY. Probably made for supported shooting. Most of the weight is forward of the lock. As a 45 cal, most of the metal is left in the barrel, and there is a lot of barrel, 42".
Also, the stock has plenty of excess wood and is quite bulky, but the workmanship is good.
The patch box does not seem to be of the same era as the rest of the rifle.

Criticisms aside, the price was too good to pass up. Here it is. All comments and critiques are welcome.
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Ron
 
The stock by the lock mortise the tang and the trigger a a bit different than what "we" are "used to seeing", but given that it was perhaps made in the 1970's or even perhaps in the late 1960's, long before there was available the collective research and documentation that we have today..., I'd not hold anything against this rifle. Heck it may be of a "school" unto itself.

LD
 
With the Bedford Co. lock this is like the first rifle I built 50-some years ago. It was supposed to be a Bedford rifle but apart from the lock, bore no resemblance whatsoever to a Bedford rifle.
 
The Bedford style lock looks small and dainty in the big stock, at least to my eyes.

I have to do a little work on the lock. It sparks well, but the hammer and flint will not drive the frizzen all the way back. The flint stops right at the bottom of the frizzen face.
The screw in the jaws that hold the flint is a replacement and isn't high enough to use to cock the hammer. It gives me a little project to do.
Ron
 
Your frizzen problem may be because the frizzen spring is located improperly. It should be at least 1/8" further forward. With the frizzen in the full open position the toe of the frizzen should be on the down-slope at the end of the spring. With the frizzen closed the toe should rest just behind the crest of the bend in the spring. My lock is the same as you have and came as a kit from Dixie (no assembly instructions) which may account for the wrong location as all holes had to be drilled and tapped.
 
I think I have the frizzen problem resolved.

First, I used a slight amount of lubricating oil on the various screws on the lock. A strike by the flint then sent the frizzen a little further back.

I polished the surfaces where the springs contact the lock plate. The hammer and flint moved father down the frizzen. Then I loosened slightly the sear screw and bridle screws so all moved freely. Voila, Viola, Walla (or however that French term is spelled)! The hammer completed its movement and the frizzen went all the way back.

There were sparks aplenty

Ron
 
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