frizzen bounceback

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

I have a Chamber's Roundface Fowler lock that I noticed has a frizzen bounceback. I noticed a little mark on the flint. So I greased the top of the flint and sure enough the grease was scored after firing the lock.

I read up on what to do and I've tried a new frizzen spring, no luck. I tried grinding a hump on the old frizzen spring right at the point where it cams over, no luck. I tried removing metal on the "tail" of the frizzen so that it opens farther, no luck. I tried filing a flat spot on the toe of the frizzen so that it would rest in the open position, no luck.

It doesn't break flints and I'm thinking maybe just keeping an extra flap of leather protruding from the **** jaw would protect the flint. But still it ain't doing what it is supposed to do - is it?

 

[Vaino]

Contact Jim Chambers.....his locks have a lifetime warranty.......Fred

 

[caddo]

Yep contact Chambers, that being said I have a Chambers late Ketland lock that does the same thing but was breaking Flint's. The extra length of leather did the trick so I don't worry about it. I guess one day I'll send it to him but as long as it's getting the job done I just haven't taken the time.

 

[EC121]

Is it possible that the corner of the frizzen is making the mark as it comes open? If it is bounceback, it seems like one of those things should have fixed it.

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

EC121,
Hmmm. Interesting thought.

I'm not sure. When I grease the top of the flint the mark left in the grease is a distinct line across the flint (90* to the direction of travel).

If it was doing as you suggest would we expect to see the grease scraped up towards the ****-jaw?

Just trying to figure out how to distinguish.

I know Chamber's would be able to "make it good", but I get some sort of perverted satisfaction from doing it myself. That and this is my only flintlock so to part with the lock for some weeks seems like a hardship.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Chambers reputation is such that he will take care of any problems with his locks. However, I do hope you grinding and modifying did not void that warranty. A phone call to him is in order, methinks.

 

[ZUG]

If it is firing OK and it is not breaking flints then leave it alone - you might have "mucked" it up already with all the "fiddlin" you have done to it :hmm: .

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Yeah. If it ain't broke. . .

Maybe I should get a longrifle kit to focus my tinkering energy on.

 

[M. De Land]

Ah foohey, tinkering with em is part of the fun and one gets a chance to learn something.
That something may be to not try and fix it yourself but it is leaning! :rotf:
I always tinker with em and usually am able to improve things so you probably will too.

 

[Dean2]

Another vote for the benefits of tinkering. I might phone Chambers to get a couple of ideas to pursue but fixing things myself leads to the knowledge that I can fix things in the field when sending them back to the maker isn't on of the options. Plus, I would rather be working on a gun than watching T.V.

Best of luck and let us know how you end up fixing it.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Ah foohey, tinkering with em is part of the fun and one gets a chance to learn something.
That something may be to not try and fix it yourself but it is leaning! :rotf:
I always tinker with em and usually am able to improve things so you probably will too.

A lot to be said for wat you said. I agree, to a point. Probably every gun I have ever acquired needed some kind of 'tinkering'. But, there are times it is best left to the manufacturer or builder to fix an issue. Methinks a new Chambers lock is one of those time to not mess around. My fowler when I first got it required several fiddlings and tinkerings and one return for a builder fix before it was working right. Judgement call. Yer gun, yer money.

 

[Vaino]

I've "cured" 2 flintlocks from rebounding by doing the following which might not work seeing you screwed around w/ the frizzen toe. Both of these locks had the frizzen laying on the flint after the shot.

Here's what I did, but first decide as to either chamfer up or down. Bring the **** down against the frizzen until the flint edge is at the bottom of the striking surface. The frizzen should be approx. at 30 degrees. Mark exactly the toe location on the frizzen spring.

W/ a Dremel and a smaller grinding wheel grind on both sides of the mark .010 deep. Lightly radius the "hump" or cam and smoothly blend it w/ the surfaces fore and aft of the "hump". Polish going w/ the spring length.

Is this how you did it?

Both of the locks that I did this to were large Silers assembled by someone other than Chambers. That's one reason among others why I only use Chambers locks.....Fred

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Fred, I did something similar but not exactly the same. Since I didn't want any added resistance against the toe when the frizzen is opening, I just ground one side of the "hump" that you described. This way the toe has to go uphill when the frizzen is on the rebound.

I couldn't see the advantage in making the toe go over the hump when the frizzen is opening. Perhaps I'm not understanding all the mechanics.

 

[Len Graves]

As near as I understand all frizzens rebound to some extent. Check out some of Pleches slow mo movies. I have a Tule that used to break flints, used the extra long leather to cure the breakage (. Cushion the fly back). This is one of the most reliable and fastest locks I own. Sometimes I think we just have to live with those little flint lock quirks.

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

That something may be to not try and fix it yourself but it is learning!

Oh I've learned aplenty by making mistakes. And some of the most valuable lessons to learn are simply learning the limits of your ability.

More than once I've gone onto Track of the Wolf's website to look at parts prices. Basically before beginning the tinkering I ask myself "how much is this going to cost if I really foul it up?"

Most recently I learned that I can't just order a replacement frizzen. The frizzen requires heat treatments that my workshop cannot do. So it, and the entire lock, got sent off to Chamber's.

 

[M. De Land]

"CHICKEN" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But smart! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

 

[Rifleman1776]

the entire lock, got sent off to Chamber's.

Wise decision. :applause: Even if you charges you it was the best course of action.

 

[vulture]

I have an L&R flintlock that was doing this, terrible on flints, I contacted L&R and they asked me to try a few things first. The first step was to fire the lock out of the stock and see if it was doing it, which it was not, then they asked me to recheck my inletting behind the lock to see if any of the parts, especially the main spring was dragging. After some investigation that is exactly what I found, did a little inlet repair on the stock and the lock has worked fine ever since. Another thing I found was that if the lock mounting screws were loose it would work fine, which told me that when I tightened up those screws I was pulling the lock down into the mortise tight enough that internal parts were being pulled into the wood, lightened up the torque on the screws and did some judicious inletting and all was fine, great lock great rifle.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Thank you for pointing out once again that over tightening lock bolts are not needed. Snug is tight enough.

:thumbsup:

 

[chukyzlogin]

May i ask what type of flints are you using??
By your description of your frizen rebound problem they may be too long or hitting the frizzen to high.