OK........
1: You should never have worked on the lock or rifle at all with those problems, you should have returned it & insisted on another one.
2: Your lock may require a 3/4 x 3/4" flint rather than the standard 3/4" flint. (which is 3/4" x 7/8") Or it could require a 5/8" flint in it. Check it out & be sure.. Call Traditions....... Also try bevel up, bevel down & see if that fixes it.
3: Let the hammer down by hand, don't fire it & bust the flint. It will be obvious if it is going to strike the pan.
4: In your photo, it appears your flint is too far from the edge of the barrel & that is why it is striking the edge of the pan. All it has to do is barely clear the barrel flat.
5: I would not mess with the pan fit, get a flint that fits. If the cock throw needs to be shortened, you can take a wire welder & carefully weld a raised place on the lockplate to make the hammer stop higher than it does now. If you solder a piece in the hammer you will be doing it all again in a few months as solder is too soft.
6: The lock will never shower sparks like a Siler or a new T/C lock for that matter, it is not as good of lock. However it may function & do its job, give it a try. All that matters is it lights the pan. I had a Traditions Hawkens here one time & it has yellow sparks & not too many, but it went off every time & that is all I can ask of it.
7: I would not invest in a L&R lock for it, the rifle is not worthy of a new lock as it should function with what came with it. To me that is like buying a new car & then having to buy another new engine to make it run...... :bull: It should work with what came with it, if it don't get rid if it & buy a GPR or a T/C. Lots of good used ones around & they function quite well.
8: I think you will find a 5/8" flint placed properly & shimmed out to the proper place will do the trick. :thumbsup:
