Frizzen Wear

[FFF]

What is the end of the line for a Frizzen,concerning wear,is reconditioning possible?

 

[Flint311]

When the frizzen stops sparking (with good, sharp, actual flints), it's at the end. If case hardened, may be able to use some casenite and get back some life. Change the frizzen with new or re-sole with a piece of file.

Is one giving trouble?

 

[FFF]

The gun is 4 years old and the frizzen is gouged slightly,I was just wondering what to expect.Very happy with the L&R lock and triggers,trouble free.

 

[Zonie]

If your lock is an L&R its frizzen is hardened all the way thru so it won't "wear out".

Some scratches and gouges are normal for the face of a used frizzen. After all, those sparks came from material that was scraped off by the flint.

Because small pieces of the flint chip off each time it hits the frizzen, it will scrape off material in slightly different places each time the gun is fired.

 

[rich pierce]

+1

 

[ebiggs1]

I am trying my best to wear out an L&R frizzen but not yet......I'll keep trying. I agree with Mr. Zonie and Rich Pierce.

BTW, I had my 45 cal (L&R lock) out yesterday with Mr. Pierce's flint in it. :thumbsup:

 

[hanshi]

I've had two frizzens replaced on Siler locks over the years. They were NOT worn out, however. One lock wasn't a reliable sparker and when I sent it in for evaluation, the frizzen was replaced along with a tuning. It works splendidly now. The other lock simply had a gouged frizzen but was a very reliable lock. I sent it in to just have the frizzen checked and got the lock back with a new frizzen. They will get all scraped up, for sure, but that never seems to make any difference with good locks.

 

[Stubert]

I've got an L&R on a fullstock Lehman that I bought used. It was made in the 80's It has the origianal frizzen and the last time I shot it I went 36 shots without knapping, All I do is wipe the fouling off and pick the hole after its loaded to feel the powder. The L&R is a good lock.

 

[paulvallandigham]

It helps as part of routine maintenance, to remove the frizzen from the lock annually, or whenever you see gouge appearing on the face of the frizzen. Then, while watching your favorite TV show, use some abrasive cloth- fine emory cloth works for me, and your thumb to polish the frizzen face until the gouges are removed. Sometimes, you let things go too far, and you may have to use a file, or dowel to back the abrasive and lock the frizzen in a vise, to get the gouges out. But, its worth the effort. Your frizzen will always spark better when the surface is smooth, provided its been properly hardened and tempered. [Caution: Some frizzens are only CASE HARDENED, and the thin case is easily worn through with common use. Those frizzens either need to be re-soled, or replaced. ] :hmm:

 

[MikeChapin]

I've got an L&R on a fullstock Lehman that I bought used. It was made in the 80's It has the origianal frizzen and the last time I shot it I went 36 shots without knapping, All I do is wipe the fouling off and pick the hole after its loaded to feel the powder. The L&R is a good lock.

I have three L&R locks on my rifles all from the early to mid eighties. The two Mantons will still spark well if the flint is down to a nub. The Large English lock is also a steady sparker. All were bought back when Rice was still with the company. Far back enough that the large English came with both cocks and all came with excellent amber flints.

I took a hiatus from muzzleloading for about 15 years. When I got back into it, I was surprised to hear a lot of people really disliking L&R locks. What I have pieced together is that when Rice left the company quality took a dive. Many people send them to Rice to have him tune them to have them work properly.