Full **** not engaging

[Steve-ALA]

I sent a 20 year old lock back to maker to have an updated **** and mainspring installed. Got lock back this afternoon. When I put it back into the gun, it would hold half **** with triggers set or unset, however, I now have to set the triggers to get it to hold full ****. It fires fine. But I used to be able to shoot with triggers set AND unset. Short of sending back to maker, is there anything I can look for and try to resolve this issue? Note, I have absolutely no experience with anything like this.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Khufu]

the trigger bar it Too high. the sear must be in a different position due to tuning, remove metal SLOWLY from the trigger bar where it contacts the sear until it will **** properly.

 

[Steve-ALA]

I really appreciate the reply, but I'm not exactly sure where you are saying to remove metal from.

 

[Tom Compton]

Some triggers can be adjusted so the spring stops pushing the lever upward a little earlier. Don't know make or anything on your gun. I can remove trigger guard and tighten (CW) a small screw that holds the spring up.

 

[Steve-ALA]

40 Flint, are you referring to trigger set screw?

 

[EC121]

Some triggers come with a screw under the trigger mainspring itself in addition to the front trigger engagement screw. The screw raises the spring a bit and lets the rear trigger bar drop some to take pressure of the sear bar. I usually install a screw there if there isn't one. You can take more wood off the belly for better architecture that way. If you look at a lot of the old guns, they are almost flat under the lock. This and a proper web thickness allow a more slender forearm.

 

[Khufu]

the little bar that sticks into the kole in the stock is the sear arm, it is lifted up by the trigger bar, as you pull the trigger back, it pivots on a pin and the flat part that rises up pushes on the sear arm. if the trigger pushes on that sear before pulling the trigger yhe sear will not lower and engauge the notch in the ****. relieving a small amount of metal from that trigger bar will allow the sear to fully engauge the noych in the ****

 

[Tom Compton]

40 Flint, are you referring to trigger set screw?

No sir. I was short on time and did not adequately explain. EC did much better thanks. The sear engagement screw extends quite a bit below the trigger plate and has a head on it. Some triggers have a smaller screw w no head that is flush or even recessed a little. Tho removing metal from the trigger bar will allow sear engagement, why would you choose that option IF the screw is there? And if you turn it too far you can turn it back vs filing the trigger bar too far. If your triggers don't have a spring stop screw you can drill and tap the trigger plate and install a screw to limit trigger main spring travel or file the trigger bar.
TC

 

[Steve-ALA]

I have filed on the bar. It will hold full **** when holding the lock in the mortise with strong finger pressure however when I tighten the lock bolt, it still will not hold full ****. Do I need to continue filing? And to note, I have no screw to adjust as suggested by others.

 

[Tom Compton]

Ok. Check to see if the end of thesear bar is dragging inside the lock mortise.
TC

 

[ol vern]

Yep check the way the lock is inletted, it sounds like when you
tighten the lock bolt some wood is interfering with the sear.

 

[Steve-ALA]

I noticed when I put the lock in the mortise, I set the trigger to allow the lock to drop in flush, but when I would release the set trigger, the lock would kinda pivot just a tiny bit. What that showed me was that I needed to remove I very minute amount of wood from the top of the inlet hole where the sear bar goes,, which I did. I also filed a wee bit more and now the lock doesn't pivot and she holds full **** with triggers set AND unset. I can fire the gun either way. Thanks to all of you for your assistance. I actually learned some things about how locks work. Sorry for being a nuisance.

Steve

 

[Pete G]

You could also have filed the tip of the kickoff spring. What was happening was your rear trigger was resting against the sear, preventing it from engaging the full **** notch. There should be some clearance between the trigger and sear when they are both at rest.

 

[Zonie]

You done good.

Check the front trigger when the lock is at full ****.

The trigger should have just a tiny bit of free play (movement) before it starts pushing on the sear bar.

If there is no movement, file just a little bit more off of the trigger blade until there is.

This is needed to assure the trigger isn't keeping the sear from engaging to its full depth.

A partially engaged sear can accidentally release the hammer if the gun is jarred.

 

[Steve-ALA]

Zonie,

The front trigger does have a little play in it as it did before I had the lock work done. I really enjoy this site and the folks here are good people.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Steve-ALA]

I'm resurrecting this older thread so that y'all will know what I had done a year ago. Now as of last evening, my lock will fire set and unset however I have to set the trigger before full ****. If I full **** and then set trigger, when fired it will only go back to half ****. Now I only use half **** at the range. When hunting I do not set trigger. Should I be concerned since half **** is used only at the range or should I try to see what has changed? Any help is surely appreciated.

 

[Grenadier1758]

If your rifle is going to half **** when you set the trigger after going to full ****, then the most likely cause is the fly in the tumbler of your lock is sticking.

Take the lock out and see if a build up of grease can be seen in the recess for the fly. You may be able to spray some brake cleaner on the fly and then apply some light oil to the fly. Best would be to take the lock apart ro clean excess grease from the tumbler and fly. Be careful when taking the lock apart. I often take my locks apart in an empty box so I can find the small parts that may try to escape. Take notice of how the fly is installed in the tumbler. L&R locks have a right and wrong way. Most likely you are looking at excess grease causing the fly to stick.

 

[mr.flintlock]

Try shims between the trigger bar and where it meets the underside of the stock.