Gap Between Lock and Stock

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Rather than using some sort of crutch like wax, why not increase the depth of the locks mortice slightly to allow the lock to fit snugly against the barrel?

It often just requires doing a little scraping of the finish or wood from the faces of the shelf which the lockplate rests against.

Ideally, the wood will be supporting the lock plate and the gap will be gone when the lock screw is tightened.
 
I have a small gap between my lock and stock on my Lyman GPR .54 flint. It was put together from a kit about four years ago or so. What can I do to correct this?

Lest I cover already covered ground. If you are referring to a gap between the wood surrounding the lock: in other words, the lock is loose in its mortice; then you can proceed as follows.

The easiest remedy is to simply bed the lock into the lock mortice, using Acraglass, colored with the supplied dye to match the color of the existing wood. Please be sure to thoroughly coat the lock and lock internals with release agent (multiple coats) and when this is dry, a good helping of bees wax or automotive grease helps; just the be on the safe side.You do not need to bed under the lock; unless the lock is inlet too deep (more later on). Let the bedding dry and when dry, carefully remove the lock. Watch out for surplus Acraglass that peels out from the gaps and which can 'lock' the lock into place (please read the instructions that accompany the Acraglass packaging). Cut/sand down the surplus Acraglass even with the wood. Use masking tape to protect the wood and proceed carefully. This will give a good repair and will hardly be noticeable, unless you really look for it. Remember to clean the lock afterwards and oil before installing. Note: you need very little Acraglass to do this job. Do not get this stuff into the lock internals!

A method I often use on old guns I am restoring and on guns where there are large gaps or cracks/chips in the lock mortice sides, is to remove the top 1/8th or 1/16th of the wood by filing this down. Then I glue in a new piece of wood and inlet the lock afresh. This work must be carefully done, or you will have gaps where the wood joins the stock. I usually use a lighter shade of the same type of wood and then color it darker with stains (experiment on some scrap) till the color is right. Stain and oil/varnish to match the existing finish. Lyman does not use 'best quality' wood on their stocks, so the repair can be done and you will not see the join; because there will be no broken grain lines to attract the eye.

If there is a gap between lock (frizzen) and barrel, then the lock inlet can be carefully deepened to allow the lock to seat deeper. Use a small, sharp chisel as a scraper and go carefully, using candle soot, 'smoking the lock' as you go along. Also look for locks parts bearing on places other than the lock inlet shoulders for bottoming spots.

If on the other hand, the lock is inlet too deep, build up the lock mortice shoulders with Acraglass, observing the cautions already mentioned.

Sometimes a small gap remains between frizzen and barrel where deepening the lock will require major stock alteration. Here you can use a thin piece of brass shim and soft solder this to the (frizzen side) at the frizzen barrel join. Work the shim down till it's flush with the frizzen basin.

Hope this helps.

BTW; if you are disassembling anything: use a camera or your cell phone camera. Photograph every step; every screw you loosen and you'll have 'insurance' when re assembling
 
I have a small gap between my lock and stock on my Lyman GPR .54 flint. It was put together from a kit about four years ago or so. What can I do to correct this?
Greetings, This is a subject that I was also affected by with my Traditions Kentucky rifle. I love that gun because it shoots well and pretty accurate. However, it haunts me to see how much fowling gets into the cavities that where cut by a router (probably a Monday cut) looking really rough and gapping. I agree with Zonie that a filling needs to be applied then cut to the correct fit so that there will no longer be a gap. After a disassemble I put a temporary aluminum foil gasket on the Bolster in the gap to see if that will help or what needs to be added. Trial and error. After 200 flying Round balls I'll be back with the results.
Thanks for listening***
 

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