General Questions to do with Cap & Ball Revolver

[Enfield58]

This is the capper Enfield58
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=332781975771

This is the nipple wrench. Traditions has another wrench that is supposed to suck due to the metal not being hard enough and it bends on the end.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=232917431327

I've had cappers like that and didn't work for me. I hope your's will work.

The nipple wrench looks well made but the one I have seems like it is made of soft steel. On the other hand, the nipple prick is a good idea.

I really like the ratcheting nipple wrench that I picked up from Cabela's as well as the Slix-Shot nipple wrench/combination tool.

 

[MaterielGeneral]

I don't remove the nipples unless it has been through several cleanings or shot a lot. Just remember to grease the threads with white lithium grease. It also pays to have a quality nipple wrench.

Is lithium grease a more cost effective choice than the products labeled anti seize? When I was at Cabela's I bought a CVA anti-seize stick.

 

[MaterielGeneral]

I've had cappers like that and didn't work for me. I hope your's will work.

I hope it works too. It was a pain in the ass to put caps on by hand. There was a review on it that said it worked perfect for an 1858 New Army.

 

[Eutycus]

There was a member yesterday who mentioned using cap rakes in the future so installing Slick Shot nipples would be a uneccessary expense. I myself am fairly new at cap and ball shooting. What is a cap rake and what is its function?

 

[MaterielGeneral]

There was a member yesterday who mentioned using cap rakes in the future so installing Slick Shot nipples would be a uneccessary expense. I myself am fairly new at cap and ball shooting. What is a cap rake and what is its function?

Who were you quoting? I am interested learning about this cap rake. In my research so far I have not came across a cap rake. You mentioned your new here. I am also, here is an FYI on quoting a member. Click the quote button and then click the reply button. Just figured that out this morning. I hate being the new guy, LOL.

 

[rodwha]

Who were you quoting? I am interested learning about this cap rake. In my research so far I have not came across a cap rake. You mentioned your new here. I am also, here is an FYI on quoting a member. Click the quote button and then click the reply button. Just figured that out this morning. I hate being the new guy, LOL.

A cap rake or cap post is a piece of metal, initially I think it was a tiny drill bit that was used to drill a hole into the frame. This is placed close to the nipple and within the safety notch on a Colt (or Colt-like) revolver. The safety notch in the hammer nose usually needs to be modified a little. The hammer will then be able to fully function with the safety pins on the back of the cylinder, but the post will keep spent caps from being pulled off of the nipples which typically ends up falling into the action and jamming the revolver.

Another option is to smooth out the edges on the safety notch so that it (hopefully) doesn’t grab the cap so easily and pull it off. Mike Beliveau did a video on this where it worked nicely on a gun that always jammed despite fixes he tried.

 

[Enfield58]

A cap rake or cap post is a piece of metal, initially I think it was a tiny drill bit that was used to drill a hole into the frame. This is placed close to the nipple and within the safety notch on a Colt (or Colt-like) revolver. The safety notch in the hammer nose usually needs to be modified a little. The hammer will then be able to fully function with the safety pins on the back of the cylinder, but the post will keep spent caps from being pulled off of the nipples which typically ends up falling into the action and jamming the revolver.

Another option is to smooth out the edges on the safety notch so that it (hopefully) doesn’t grab the cap so easily and pull it off. Mike Beliveau did a video on this where it worked nicely on a gun that always jammed despite fixes he tried.

Is this what you are describing?

 

[Eutycus]

I was quoting Drobs in post #18 I think.

 

[Bad Karma]

I've seen it written on several posts lately that when the nipples become mushroomed, from the hammer hitting on them, to just file them down until the cap fits snuggly. I recall reading somewhere that the hammer should not contact the cone of the nipple at all or just barely.Is it alright to have the hammer hitting the nipples or is some sort of adjustment needed?

by design, the hammer face never makes contact with the nipple, but tolerance stacking can rear it’s ugly head and voila’! mushroomed nipples.. ir yours are making contact you can take a file to the offenders and make it right.

 

[rodwha]

Is this what you are describing?
View attachment 5320 View attachment 5321

Indeed it is! I’ve seen people use a copper penny too.

 

[Grenadier1758]

You do need a nipple wrench that is sized for revolvers. The nipples require a smaller diameter wrench than a rifle.

 

[Eutycus]

Indeed it is! I’ve seen people use a copper penny too.

Could you explain that copper penny thing?

 

[Jack Ryan]

Hello to all that has input and to those that are just reading.

I assume nipple wear will very with balls shot but if you were to guess how often would you have to change nipples?

Do you have to do all six nipples at the same time?

How often do you have to remove the nipples, clean, apply anti seize lube?

I understand black powder is corrosive and the gun needs to be cleaned right away after shooting. But is the alternative Pyrodex corrosive also?

I appreciate the help.
MG

A LOT less if you don't dry fire it all the time hammer the nipples down flat.

 

[Jack Ryan]

I only remove them about every three cleanings. The important thing to remember is that percussion nipples are like spark plugs in an engine, you only want to snug them down, not tight. And yeah, have had to deal with friends revolvers with stuck nipples, the result of never being taken out, and over tightened.

I have never had to replace nipples on any revolver I've owned.

I always use antisieze when I put them back in. I've NEVER had to replace the nipples on any I own.

 

[Jack Ryan]

This is the capper Enfield58
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=332781975771

This is the nipple wrench. Traditions has another wrench that is supposed to suck due to the metal not being hard enough and it bends on the end.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=232917431327

That is the line capper I use, rifle or pistol.

 

[arcticap]

Could you explain that copper penny thing?

Here's a video explaining the 1/4 penny cap rake.

 

[Eutycus]

Sorry if I missed it, I watched this video with the volume turned down. The music was a little too annoying for me.Did he mention anything about brass frames? Wouldnt cutting a groove into the brass frame weaken it somewhat?

 

[Eutycus]

Also I have another question on Colt clones and you can expect more in the future. There are 2 little pins that protrude from the front of the frame and go into 2 holes in the back of the barrel assembly. I suppose to keep the barrel from twisting. And to keep all parts aligned. The last time I disassembled my ASM 1851 Navy revolver, 1 pin remained in the frame and the other in the barrel housing. I had always assumed it was made that way. I was watching a Youtube video on Colt Repros and both pins are supposed to remain in the front of the frame. Does it really matter?

 

[Rifleman1776]

I recall reading somewhere that the hammer should not contact the cone of the nipple

That would be true with some of the quality revolvers on the market. The Ruger Old Army was designed that way. Nipples should last nearly indefinitely with that kind of design.

 

[rodwha]

Also I have another question on Colt clones and you can expect more in the future. There are 2 little pins that protrude from the front of the frame and go into 2 holes in the back of the barrel assembly. I suppose to keep the barrel from twisting. And to keep all parts aligned. The last time I disassembled my ASM 1851 Navy revolver, 1 pin remained in the frame and the other in the barrel housing. I had always assumed it was made that way. I was watching a Youtube video on Colt Repros and both pins are supposed to remain in the front of the frame. Does it really matter?

Maybe not, but now there is only one pin engaging the barrel to help hold it in place. It would bother me.