AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
As a kid, I flew an assortment of gas engine model planes. Fuel was nitromethane and castor oil. A friends' older brother had some kind of 2-stroke dirt bike. He mixed castor oil with gasoline to run it.
A few weeks ago, a lady at work was selling some home made hand cream and one of the ingredients was a little castor oil, which does the same thing as Jojoba in that kind of stuff, but is way cheaper.
For decades I've used a blend of tallow + beeswax for ball lube & patch lube in my cap & balls and all other rifles. Vary the proportion to make it stiffer or softer and to suit the outdoors temperature. Castor oil is the ideal hi-temp lube, it doesn't scorch or burn at elevated engine temperatures and has a higher burn temp than olive oil.
I thought I'd try some and filled up a little range bottle with castor oil. Just a few drops on the patch, and it loads balls easily, resists fouling build up better than tallow blends, and doesn't need a recipe to make up seasonal varieties.
It works great on ball mold lubrication points, too. I just got a brand new Lee ball mold, and after cleaning it up for first use, lubed it with a little castor oil - no scorching or burn off, and works the mold sprue smooth. I've cast about 100 so far today, and am waiting for the refilled pot to heat back up so I can cast a bunch more.
I hate to admit that it may replace my tallow + beeswax blend, but it just might - for most uses.
Haven't tried it as a lock lube yet, but since it doesn't gum up or break down at hi temp, it may be a better choice than even 3 in 1 oil I now usually use.
A few weeks ago, a lady at work was selling some home made hand cream and one of the ingredients was a little castor oil, which does the same thing as Jojoba in that kind of stuff, but is way cheaper.
For decades I've used a blend of tallow + beeswax for ball lube & patch lube in my cap & balls and all other rifles. Vary the proportion to make it stiffer or softer and to suit the outdoors temperature. Castor oil is the ideal hi-temp lube, it doesn't scorch or burn at elevated engine temperatures and has a higher burn temp than olive oil.
I thought I'd try some and filled up a little range bottle with castor oil. Just a few drops on the patch, and it loads balls easily, resists fouling build up better than tallow blends, and doesn't need a recipe to make up seasonal varieties.
It works great on ball mold lubrication points, too. I just got a brand new Lee ball mold, and after cleaning it up for first use, lubed it with a little castor oil - no scorching or burn off, and works the mold sprue smooth. I've cast about 100 so far today, and am waiting for the refilled pot to heat back up so I can cast a bunch more.
I hate to admit that it may replace my tallow + beeswax blend, but it just might - for most uses.
Haven't tried it as a lock lube yet, but since it doesn't gum up or break down at hi temp, it may be a better choice than even 3 in 1 oil I now usually use.