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glass bedding a trad. rifle?

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thumper50

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I don't think its traditional, but has anyone ever glass bedded a traditional rifle? Would it improve accuracy? Is it even possible? I don't know how or even if it would work. Help??
 
I've done it, I see no reason too as a well built unbedded rifle shoots better than I can hold.
 
I have done it to clean up someone elses sloppy inletting on used guns I have picked up, but would see no reason to as a general procedure.
 
I have just recently bedded a Thompson cherokee because of a cracked stock.It will be interesting to see if it holds up to the recoil.
 
If you used a good epoxy-based bedding compound, like that sold by Brownell's, it will not only hold up to recoil, but it will outlast the wood stock! :thumbsup:
 
I've never full length bedded one, but I use acra-glass on almost all of my rifles, to seal the end grain at the breech of the barrel channel and under the tang, I'm not sure that it does much, but I've never had a stock crack on me regardless of caliber, type of wood, or amount of recoil. So for the few cents it costs I'll keep doing it, if for no other reason than I know for sure that I have a sealed end grain and a full contact on the one part of the rifle that takes the most recoil.

C
 
That is a perfect application of bedding compound on any rifle. The end grain behind the barrel and behind the tang are the two places where cracks are going to appear if they ever do. By glass bedding these areas, you strengthen them permanently, and extend the working life of any stock. Considering the price of quality wood, and the cost of the work to turn out a truly well fit, and beatiful stock, using Acra-glass is just the ticket to protect your investment.

I also like to use glass, applied thinly with a brush or swab, to the inside of the lock mortise, to the trigger mortise, and to the end grain under the buttplate. Those are the other "weak" spots in stocks, that benefit from the glass. :hmm:

YOu are reminded to use a good release agent on all metal parts near anything you might bed with epoxy or fiberglass, to keep them from being permanent attached to the wood.
 
Glass bedding the tang and breech area makes a lot of sense. It stabilizes and strengthens the wood in an area where shifting can effect your accuracy. It might also ward off splitting.

Full length bedding doesn't offer much though, as the stock on muzzleloaders is to thin and flexible to offer much support to the barrel. The barrels on muzzleloaders are quite a bit thicker and stiffer, and under less pressure, than modern rifles anyway.
 
Thanks for the replies Gentlemen!! I shall do more research on how. I think bedding the tang area at least can't hurt!! Winter project coming up!!
 
FWIW if anyone is going to use a 'modern' glass bedding epoxy, I urge you to consider Pro-Bed 2000 from www.scorehi.com or Score Hi Gunsmithing. It is a phenolic micro-balloon epoxy that is non-compressible and fantastic to use! I use Pan non-stick spray with olive oil and have done many, many modern piller-bedded centerfire benchrest rifles with this stuff. Is is THE ONLY bedding compound I'll use.
 
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