Goex has been the source of Black powder for many years. Only recently have they ventured into the fake stuff. I don't know where you have been.
The Fake stuff should not be used for either Prime, or for the main charge in a flintlock. The flash point for these substitutes is too high to be reliably ignited. Swiss, or Wano, or Schuetzen powders are good Black powder,also. You can order your powder from several suppliers, such as Graf & Sons, or Powder, Inc, which you can locate under member resources at the top of the index to this forum. These companies will sell the the powders at the lowest cost, but because any shipment is required to pay a Government Haz Mat( Hazardous Materials) fee, of $20.00, per shipment, it pays you to find someone else to share an order, so that the cost can be spread over several pounds of powder in one order. A case holds 25 lbs. You can mix and match powders with these suppliers. They can also ship orders of small quantities, but you have to understand that the Haz Mat fee is the same whether you order 1 pound or 50 lbs. d
If you gun is experiencing any kind of significant delay in firing( Chamber ignition) the source of the problem can be several. 1. You are using a substitute powder rather than Black Powder in a flintlock. 2. You did not open a hole in the main charge in order to facilitate( speed up) ignition of the main charge when the priming powder burns outside the barrel in the flashpan. 3. You covered your flash hole( vent) with your priming powder, and that powder has to burn down before the main charge can be ignited.4. Your Vent hole should be located above a line drawn across the top of the flashpan, about .030" for best ignition. Some touch holes are drilled too small, or have no liner, or a bad one. The Chamber's Lightning liner does work to speed ingition, because it is coned on the inside, and that cone forms a parabolic surface to reflect heat back into the chamber, which helps raise the temperature, and pressure in the chamber quickly. A touch hole diameter of 1/16" inch general helps ignition, but sometimes you have to open it up to 5/64". 5. Your flint is striking the face of the frizzen too high, and/or is not scraping metal off the face, but instead gouging metal out of the face, letting it slowly fall down the face as the frizzen opens, into the pan, if any sparks are still alive by then, This can delay ignition of the priming powder, and therefore the main charge substantially. The angle that your flint strikes the frizzen must be about 60 degrees to vertical, measured with the ase line along the top of the bottom jaw of the cock, the center of the angle being at the point where the edge of the flint actually contacts the frizzen, and the other line being drawn from that point to the top of the frizzen's inside point. You want the flint to strike about 60% to 2/3 of the way up from the bottom edge of the frizzen. You should see long continuous scraping marks made by the flint on the frizzen, and not gouges like the rippled surface of a washboard.
Fix those problems and your troubles with your flintlock firing should be over. Oh, when the lock is tuned properly, and you load the chamber properly, the gun firing should sound like, " kBOOM!", and the main charge should be burning before the cock finishes its fall.
