Gonna give it a try this season!

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What did you end up using for a patch lube? I'd think the "dry" Ballistol/water would be a fine hunting lube since they are left out until all the water evaporates off and all that is left on the patch is the Ballistol.
 
I mixed up a batch of Ballistol and water 6:1 solution. I did hundreds of patches at once. I soaked them and let them dry twice, then cut to size. I've tried other lubes: mink oil, olive oil, Mr Flintlocks lube, the Wonderlube prelubed patches. The dry lubes ones shoot the best out of this gun. I'm done experimenting with it. 80gr Goex and those patches, done, whether hunhing or at the range.

That said, I need to do the whole process with my flintlock.
 
I get good accuracy from a similar dry patch method, only I use Castor oil/denatured alcohol. Best groups to date out of my rifle with that combo. But it will deteriorate the patches if made more than a month before using them. I have some Ballistol and will try it one of my next shooting sessions.
I recently experimented more with mink oil and have found that very very little of it on the patch gives me some decent groups. Only one swipe of the patch across the lube and then rubbed out to the edges.
 
Does anyone "know" this, for certain? When I do the Ballistol and water thing, I understand the water evaporates leaving the Ballistol. My question, does the Ballistol EVER evaporate or "leave" the patch material over time? Does it ever dry out?

In my experience, it doesnt, but I keep the precut square patches in a tin in my possibles bag so not much if any exposure to air. I havent noticed patch deterioration, but my oldest patches are only a year old. The only downside to this dry patch method is, you really need to swab between shots. Not a problem on the range, as I do this anyhow. But in a hunting situation where you might need a quick reload, it can be an issue. Round 1 loads easily, zero issues. Unless you swab the barrel, round 2 does NOT.
 
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